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Posts posted by dalef62

  1. I sure love my camera on my cell phone!  There are just some places I can't get my head into to see what is going on.  Take a picture with the cellphone and there it is!  

    Changed the oil in the Hupp today and added the oil, 9 quarts, and I couldn't see the gauge on the block.  Snap a picture and bam, it is right on the full mark.  Without the camera I couldn't even read the markings!

    Technology is great!!!!

    I am now ready for cars shows.


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  2. I know I saw a discussion on engine oil for a babbit bearing engine on here but I can't find it.  I have a 1929 Hupmobile with straight 8 engine and need to change the oil and want to know what type of oil to use.  Should I use detergent or non-detergent oil?  What weight?  The engine has good oil pressure now and the oil doesn't seem to thick.  I know it takes around 10 quarts of oil, and at the present time it has no filter.  


  3. Last Sunday we took a trip to the Meyersdale Maple festival car show with the 1977 Corvette, beautiful day and lots of cars!  A big change from last year's 25 degrees.

    Finished the plug wires on the Hupp today.  Looks pretty good to me.  Now if it runs it will be even better!!  

    Did some checking into the paint color for the FOR and I think I might have a match!  I will get a pint made up next week and see how close it is.  The weather has been fairly nice lately and I hope to get some painting done soon.



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  4. What is the correct number for the distributor rotor for a 1929 Century M 8 cylinder?  There are several rotors on eBay but they do not say whether they are for the 6 or the 8.  I bought a cap and need the rotor now, as the rotor that was in there is wrong...  The cap I got was a AU - 88 or IG - 1325.  I have the Autolite distributor.



  5. As luck would have it a friend of mine came to my shop today bringing waste oil for my furnace.  He saw the Hupp and saw that I was working on the wires.  I told him I was looking for a crimping tool.  He told me he just bought one from Summit racing and said I could borrow it.  He hasn't used it yet.   It looks like a nice tool, About $50 he told me.  Worked great.


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  6. You never know who might have what you need...  I was doing the spark plugs and wires and needed the crimping tool, I asked on the technical thread to get information on what I should use.  A friend came into the garage today to drop off waste oil for my furnace and noticed I was working on the Hupp.  I told him I was looking for a crimping tool and he told me that he just bought one from Summit for his car, but hadn't even used it yet.  He got it to me and I started crimping the ends on.  Works really nice!   I still have the distributor cap side of the wire ends to put ends on yet, but want to get them the correct length.

    I also picked up some black engine paint and painted the head.  I will slowly turn the engine black the way it should be.  It sure makes the plug wires pop!




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  7. I am working on a 1929 Hupmobile putting new spark plug wires on it and would like to know the proper way to crimp the ends on the wires.  It is the standard ends that get crimped on to cloth covered wire.  Is there a special tool?  What does it look like?  Has anyone done it with normal tools and how was the results?  



  8. You can buy a basic powder coating kit from suppliers like Eastwood.  Powder coating is basically dusting, using the gun and compressed air from a compressor, a clean metallic part with powder under a electrostatic charge, then baking that part in an electric oven or under a heat light for a period of time(20 minutes at 400 degrees, usually).  I bought my kit from Eastwood and it came with the powder coating gun and several starter powder colors, I have since added many powders and I use a kitchen electric stove/oven to bake my parts in.  It works real good but I am limited on the size of parts I can do as to what will fit in the oven.  The nice part about powder coating is that when the part comes out of the oven, after it cools you can handle it and install it immediately, no waiting on paint to dry.

            HotCoat Powdercoating DIY System

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  9. Yours looks slightly different than mine.  Looks to have gusset at the corner, and the part where the pump bolts up is notched different.  Does your engine have the oil fitting on the side of the crankcase?  That is why someone notched my bracket.  Either Crosley or fly by night mechanic... 

    What # is your FOR? 

    Had some extra time this afternoon to powder coat the exhaust manifold.  Another part ready to install.


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  10. Today was a good day for getting some things done on the FOR engine.  Things checked out on the compression and I pressure washed it yesterday and then stripped it down today.  Got all the accessories off it and blasted a lot of them.  Now to fire up the powder coat gun and get some of them powder coated, and the rest painted.  I have hi temp cast iron powder coat for the exhaust manifold and I will powder coat clear the intake and water outlet.  I will spray gloss black on the oil fill tube and bracket for the the pump. 

    Jim Bollman, does that bracket look factory for the pump, with the torched out notch for the oil filter line fitting?

    FOR engine6.jpg

    FOR engine5.jpg

    FOR engine4.jpg

    FOR engine3.jpg

    FOR engine2.jpg

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  11. You restore a vehicle for the love of restoring vehicles, not the end value.  Too much has been placed on the value after the vehicle is finished, and the fact that you have more invested in it than it is worth.  Do it because you like the satisfaction of returning a vehicle to its original condition, or because you have some sentimental attachment to it.  This is the old car HOBBY, ask a golfer how much he spends on his hobby, or a fisherman?  It is for your enjoyment, if you like it do it.  I am really tired of hearing that you shouldn't restore a vehicle because you will be upside down on cost before you even get it halfway finished. 

    As for the seat, I would think that it would be a production 41 Plymouth seat frame, finished in cheap vinyl.  

    I am sure the AACA has seen and judges a few Powell vehicles and it would be just like any other vehicle that they judge; originality, and then workmanship.  There are many vehicles out there that a judge has never seen before but it gets judge fairly, Crosley for instance...

  12. Did some work on the original FOR engine and found that the cam was out of time with the crank.  After several tries got it to fire and run for a few seconds.  The next thing to do will be recheck the compression on each cylinder now that it has run for a few seconds ( was 75 psi after I got it in time) then clean it up if that checks out.

    For those that don't know, the Crosley engine uses an over head cam and a tower shaft to drive it from the crankshaft.  The tower shaft is in the area just under where the "CR" are on the word Crosley.  The Crosley block is also quite different from other manufactures in that the block and head are one piece.  To do a valve job you must tear the engine completely down, crank out, crankcase off, pistons out, then you can get to the valves.

    The weather is warming up around here, but I have been slowed by a cold and hope it goes away soon so I can do more work.

    FOR engine.jpg

    FOR engine1.jpg