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Everything posted by dalef62

  1. As luck would have it a friend of mine came to my shop today bringing waste oil for my furnace. He saw the Hupp and saw that I was working on the wires. I told him I was looking for a crimping tool. He told me he just bought one from Summit racing and said I could borrow it. He hasn't used it yet. It looks like a nice tool, About $50 he told me. Worked great.
  2. You never know who might have what you need... I was doing the spark plugs and wires and needed the crimping tool, I asked on the technical thread to get information on what I should use. A friend came into the garage today to drop off waste oil for my furnace and noticed I was working on the Hupp. I told him I was looking for a crimping tool and he told me that he just bought one from Summit for his car, but hadn't even used it yet. He got it to me and I started crimping the ends on. Works really nice! I still have the distributor cap side of the wire ends to put ends on yet, but want to get them the correct length. I also picked up some black engine paint and painted the head. I will slowly turn the engine black the way it should be. It sure makes the plug wires pop!
  3. Thank you all for all the information! Will now look into buying one of them. Dale
  4. I am working on a 1929 Hupmobile putting new spark plug wires on it and would like to know the proper way to crimp the ends on the wires. It is the standard ends that get crimped on to cloth covered wire. Is there a special tool? What does it look like? Has anyone done it with normal tools and how was the results? Thanks, Dale
  5. Today I started to work on the Hupp. At Hershey last fall I bought new plug wires and ends and a new distributor cap as the wires were almost 50 years old. I marked the old cap, stripped the wire cover and then sand blasted and powder coated it. I am thinking about painting the block the proper black? What do you think?
  6. You can buy a basic powder coating kit from suppliers like Eastwood. Powder coating is basically dusting, using the gun and compressed air from a compressor, a clean metallic part with powder under a electrostatic charge, then baking that part in an electric oven or under a heat light for a period of time(20 minutes at 400 degrees, usually). I bought my kit from Eastwood and it came with the powder coating gun and several starter powder colors, I have since added many powders and I use a kitchen electric stove/oven to bake my parts in. It works real good but I am limited on the size of parts I can do as to what will fit in the oven. The nice part about powder coating is that when the part comes out of the oven, after it cools you can handle it and install it immediately, no waiting on paint to dry.
  7. Today I powder coated the valve cover a nice red and slipped it on the engine. I put the fan blades on just to see how it looks. Now I have get the generator checked, painted and installed. I still need to paint the CROSLEY script on the block red.
  8. Today I was able to put a lot of painted parts on the engine. Got the clutch and pressure plate installed also. Still need to get the generator and water pump checked and cleaned up then installed. The weather is warming up some, hope it continues so I can paint the body soon.
  9. I got the intake and exhaust manifold on over the weekend.
  10. I am getting a pile of parts that are ready for paint.
  11. Today I was able to get some "Crosley Gray" on the block. Still need to paint the oil pan and valve cover. Looks good. Soon it will be going back together.
  12. Yours looks slightly different than mine. Looks to have gusset at the corner, and the part where the pump bolts up is notched different. Does your engine have the oil fitting on the side of the crankcase? That is why someone notched my bracket. Either Crosley or fly by night mechanic... What # is your FOR? Had some extra time this afternoon to powder coat the exhaust manifold. Another part ready to install.
  13. Today was a good day for getting some things done on the FOR engine. Things checked out on the compression and I pressure washed it yesterday and then stripped it down today. Got all the accessories off it and blasted a lot of them. Now to fire up the powder coat gun and get some of them powder coated, and the rest painted. I have hi temp cast iron powder coat for the exhaust manifold and I will powder coat clear the intake and water outlet. I will spray gloss black on the oil fill tube and bracket for the the pump. Jim Bollman, does that bracket look factory for the pump, with the torched out notch for the oil filter line fitting?
  14. You restore a vehicle for the love of restoring vehicles, not the end value. Too much has been placed on the value after the vehicle is finished, and the fact that you have more invested in it than it is worth. Do it because you like the satisfaction of returning a vehicle to its original condition, or because you have some sentimental attachment to it. This is the old car HOBBY, ask a golfer how much he spends on his hobby, or a fisherman? It is for your enjoyment, if you like it do it. I am really tired of hearing that you shouldn't restore a vehicle because you will be upside down on cost before you even get it halfway finished. As for the seat, I would think that it would be a production 41 Plymouth seat frame, finished in cheap vinyl. I am sure the AACA has seen and judges a few Powell vehicles and it would be just like any other vehicle that they judge; originality, and then workmanship. There are many vehicles out there that a judge has never seen before but it gets judge fairly, Crosley for instance...
  15. Did some work on the original FOR engine and found that the cam was out of time with the crank. After several tries got it to fire and run for a few seconds. The next thing to do will be recheck the compression on each cylinder now that it has run for a few seconds ( was 75 psi after I got it in time) then clean it up if that checks out. For those that don't know, the Crosley engine uses an over head cam and a tower shaft to drive it from the crankshaft. The tower shaft is in the area just under where the "CR" are on the word Crosley. The Crosley block is also quite different from other manufactures in that the block and head are one piece. To do a valve job you must tear the engine completely down, crank out, crankcase off, pistons out, then you can get to the valves. The weather is warming up around here, but I have been slowed by a cold and hope it goes away soon so I can do more work.
  16. Yeah, I will definitely be saving the bracket and pulley parts if I use another engine.
  17. Paul, That engine is an early engine, June 1946-December 1946. It would have originally been a tin block engine (COBRA COpper BRAzed ) that was rebuilt by Crosley at a later date to retrofit to the cast iron block. It doesn't have the oil fill tube on the distributor side of the crankcase either. I may be rethinking the decision to use that engine though. I have pulled the original engine out and taking a closer look at it. When I got the FOR I tried to start the engine and it wouldn't fire. Compression was down on a few cylinders, but it may have been because the valves were not seating due to rust. So I am soaking everything down with transmission fluid to try and free things up some. Will give it another compression test in a day or so and see where the numbers are. I also found a bad rotor on the distributor that may have been another reason it didn't start, but I thought I had spark???? We will see what happens in the next couple days.
  18. I was able to get back the the Crosley engine today and stripped all the accessories off. I give it an initial cleaning with gasoline and now it is ready for deep cleaning and trying to get the paint off the aluminum. I will not be rebuilding the engine as it was running good the last time I had the convertible out. I may take the intake and exhaust off of it and the side pans and valve cover but the rest will stay, including the distributor as to remove it I will need to remove the pan and I don't want to do that. The last picture shows the engine number, Crosley guys will know what it means... lol
  19. Looking good!!!!!! I know the feeling of working alone.
  20. It is ready to install. The shifter rod will need painted yet but I have to weld the extension on first. Now to clean up the engine.
  21. I'm shifting gears on the transmission today. Pun intended!!! I was looking through my stash of parts and came across another transmission and checked it out and it looks good to go. It pays to have been collecting Crosley parts since 1978!!! I probably have 4 or five more transmissions laying around... I'll give it a coat of paint and it will be ready!!!
  22. Spinneyhill, I pulled the motor out of the convertible for the FOR!!! 😁 The correct motor for the convertible has the matching VIN for the title, which I pulled out because it didn't run.
  23. Doing a little cleanup on the transmission and finding some problems with it. First picture is the transmission that came with the FOR/less the top, second picture is a transmission that has been laying around for several years in my shop. I had planned on using the one that has been laying around but there is a problem with the bushing on the input shaft...(forth picture) there isn't one! The one that was in the FOR has the bushing but there is plenty of play(last picture). Now that my machine shop has closed up and sold his equipment, (some of which was bought for scrap!!!!!) I may need to find a new shop to get a new bushing machined. Other than the missing bushing and possible wear on the output shaft where the bushing runs it is in remarkably good shape. Maybe I will go to plan "C", take the transmission that is in the convertible and use it as I think it is good... It ran well when I used it several years ago????