Rusty_OToole

Connect up a test light or ammeter as described above. Then, remove the fuses one at a time and see which one stops the draw. That is the circuit that has the short or whatever it is. Shut off the dome light first.

How is the oil pressure? Have you done a compression test? If oil pressure is not too bad, chances are the crankshaft is in decent shape. If the cylinders are not too worn maybe rings, valves and bearings will set you up for another 50,000 miles. You could take the head off and check the cylinders for taper, or how much ridge is at the top. Summit sells engine rebuild kits for not too much money. Even if you have to have the cylinders bored and install new pistons it won't be that expensive. In the end you will be glad you did the job right.

If it is the car I am thinking of, someone in Australia found most of the engine which had last been used in a speed boat. They built up a car from that, using the original blueprints.

If it is that bad, take off the oil pan and scrape out the sludge. While you are in there make sure the oil pump screen is intact and clean. If I did not do that, I would not do anything other than change the oil and filter. With a normal old engine, you might want to change the oil every thousand miles the first one or two changes. It is bad practice to try and clean out an engine with solvent or diesel. You can do more harm than good.

Faster than what? I would go with the stock setup. Slow coolant not likely to be a problem unless the water pump is faulty or the system is clogged up.

This reminds me of a funny story Tom McCahill told in his MI column. In 1953 reigning Formula One champ Alberto Ascari made his first visit to the US. In New York he bought a new car and drove it to California. Talking to a group of sports car enthusiasts, he was raving about this great car, they expected him to name some exotic sports car but it was a six cylinder, 1953 Chevrolet convertible. Nothing exciting but just about ideal for a coast to coast pleasure trip.

Are there any other small, removable parts that have the original color?

I would try advertising, possibly in the Jaguar owner's club newsletter. I bet there are Jag owners who would trade their drum brakes for your discs.

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the diff.

You could take the front cover to the paint store and have them match it. They have a machine that analyses color and gives you a formula. Take some polish or fine rubbing compound and polish it first.

First effort I heard of to have 4 wheel steering, along with 4 wheel drive, was a WW2 surplus Jeep that someone put a front axle in place of the rear axle. This was written up in Popular Mechanics in the mid fifties.

If you clean the engine can you find any of the Pearl Gray ? This may be the only way to know what they considered Pearl Gray in 1914, even though the paint has probably dulled and darkened over the years.

There are numerous videos on Youtube about this very subject. Experienced engine builders and mechanics having problems with cam and lifter failure on rebuilt engines, always flat tappet cams, who never had such problems before. In some cases using cams and lifters from a previously reputable company. It seems like quality lifters are no longer available. So many engine builders are using roller cams exclusively.

Daimler made luxury cars and limousines for the wealthy, for years they were the official car of the English royal family. They specialized in sleeve valve engines. I believe for technical reasons, a sleeve valve engine will be longer than a conventional engine and this was Daimler's largest engine model. It surprises me that all the Double Six cars I have seen pics of, do not have very large passenger compartments. I would have expected most to be really impressive limousines. But the 2 shown here are a coupe and short coupled sedan.

During WW1 the English Daimler company spun off from its German parent making two Daimler companies. There was also an Austro Daimler which makes it three.

An old trick is to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint to help sealing. Another thing we used to do is soak it in hot water overnight. But usually if you put the gasket back the way it came off it will work, as long as it is not blown or damaged. Do not use silicone or gasket shellac.

It is a cyclecar, you can see the cooling fan thru the grille and behind it just make out a V twin engine. No doubt an air cooled motorcycle type as used by many cyclecars.

Flatheads often get stuck valves when they sit around. Sometimes you only have to oil the stem and give them a tap, other times it's more complicated. Here is a video you may find helpful or at least amusing. Don't let the casual approach fool you, this guy knows what he is doing. He just doesn't like to spend money. He has many videos on reviving various flathead Chrysler products and others if you search cold war motors on youtube.

Sounds like quite the miracle carburetor if you can believe the b*llshit in the advertisement.

I should have added that in 1938 most gas was low lead or no lead. Only the premium or hi test was sure to have lead in it, and then it was not very much. The heavily leaded high octane gas was a thing of the fifties. Your Dodge was made to run on low octane unleaded gas, with hardened valve seat inserts from the factory. Today's gas is higher octane, unleaded, and is also dry compared to the old gas. Gas used to be yellow and oily, if you got some on your hands it left an oily residue, today's gas is dry and leaves your hands dry with a white residue especially if it contains alcohol. For this reason, some say it is a good idea to add some Marvel Mystery Oil, Redex, Bardahl or your favorite upper cylinder lubricant. Even a shot of 2 stroke oil. This will help prevent wear of the rings and valves, and prevent sticking valves.

The rule of thumb is, your octane should look like your compression ratio. A 1938 Dodge came with 6.5:1 compression and at the time, regular gas was about 65 octane. Your car will run best and develop the most power on low octane regular gas. You could even toss in a little kerosene to lower the octane, if you have trouble with vapor lock in the hot weather. The go juice won't hurt anything but it isn't necessary. If you like, you can add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas for extra valve and ring lubrication. This will prevent valve sticking and give longer engine life.

You need about 2 thousandths of an inch clearance or they won't take grease. Any old time machinist should be able to figure out exactly how much clearance you need.

I had an 84 Renault with a 2 barrel Weber carburetor and hand choke.

I think after 1986 everything was fuel injection. I don't want to be mean but if you can't tell the difference between a carburetor and fuel injection by looking at the motor you may be better off taking it to a mechanic. Unless you want to use this as a learning experience. If you plan to work on your car, any car, the first thing you need to buy is a repair manual. Sometimes you can find them online for free or for a low price.

I suspect it is supposed to be filled with glycerine, this was used for damping in many gauges and instruments where vibration was a problem. If you have an old pressure gauge that is filled with a clear liquid it is probably glycerine.