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project61

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  1. project61

    Who Owns A Metz?

    Well, I guess I do. I bough this at 2019 Hershey. Working now to get steady running (junk in carb, I think) and get the brakes to function properly. Glad to see cable routing on Bharper's car. That may help a lot!
  2. OK, as this thread's focus has widened a bit, I'll offer these views of my '32 Series 50, modified for use in long-distance vintage rally use (Great Race). It has the radiator shell of a '34, and the hood, cowl and doors were made from bits of a '35 sedan (doors were cut down and reversed, cowl and hood were cut down). The back end, with twin fairings made from front fenders of a '39 Caddy, is all custom work otherwise. Temporary fenders are made from fender wells of '29 Model T Fords, but will be replaced with pontoons siamesed from rear fenders of '40 Chevy sedans (one of these days).
  3. Any updates on the 2020 Meet at Waltham?
  4. Great news! I'll be there with my 1913 Model 22!
  5. I am almost done with a 1913 Metz Model 22 purchased at Hershey, but find I have a fake hood that doesn't fit well at all, and I have no top bows or sockets for them. So, I am looking for both: a hood assembly (four hinged panels) and a set of sockets and/or bows. Can anyone help?
  6. rferg, do you have a hood (engine cover) or bow tips for the top?
  7. I am posting for a dear friend, who must sell his log-sought, recently acquired, unrestored but excellent 1961 Imperial Crown convertible, for sudden health reasons. The seller is one of the most knowledgeable Imperial experts in the world and a very fine fellow. If you have ever wanted one of these astonishing Exner masterpieces (429 total production, including mine), this is the one and now is the time. It's on EBay here:
  8. Bob Engle, babbitt cam bearings are in, engine not yet started. See PM. Do you want me to return the setting plugs?
  9. BIG thanks, Bob. I have sent PM as requested. Very generous - I'll let you know how it works. jc
  10. Thnaks Bob, but I'm a bit confused about your one comment, as this IS a 1932 Series 50 engine - just as you note where your experience is. Please don't be hesitant! I would like to try the babbit inserts (that you have), if they are made such that the ID is small enough at installation to allow a line bore, a bit under stock, as the cam journals have now been polished a few mils under. Are the babbits you have sized for a final line bore once installed?
  11. Bob, et al, thanks for good thoughts. I have a little more insight (but not much) on the loss of pressure at idle. It seems the center bearing has a cut-out to miss the distributor drive gear, so when that spun, it opened the block drilling direct to the crankcase and dumped all the pressure. But of course, it spun first... The bearings were NOT pinned the first time. They were loctited. I demanded pins the second time, but somehow that didn't do it either. Babbits with pins are probably the way to go, plus a little more oil pressure at the pump (no apparent pump damage yet).
  12. Bob, that's interesting - and scary! I don't know if I can fit babbit steels in there now or not, or if block has been bored larger for bronzes. I asked the shop and the y said they might be able to fit the babbits if the ID is only semi-finished ( the cam journals needed a slight reduction to refinish). What do you think? Are the one you have under ID now, so they can be line bored?
  13. Bob, that's interesting - and scary! I don't know if I can fit babbit steels in there now or not, or if block has been bored larger for bronzes. I asked the shop and the y said they might be able to fit the babbits if the ID is only semi-finished ( the cam journals needed a slight reduction to refinish). What do you think? Are the one you have under ID now, so they can be line bored?
  14. In the more recent event, we were tooling down a highway at about 50 mph, with about 35 psi on the gauge. When we came to a stoplight, it dropped to zero. I recovered a few pounds with some throttle, and when the light changed we turned onto a side road. Pressure returned (I don;t recall the exact reading), but within a few hundred feet, it was all over. The cam siezed up, sheared the timing gear at both crank and jackshaft teeth, and we coasted to a stop. Don, do you know what is the required bearing clearance?
  15. Brian, Yes, sadly so. Twice, both times the center went. Second time that and the rear. These are not fed through cam, but by a drilling along side, that then ports through bearing holes. The holes WERE lined up, but of course, once the insert spins, that stops. Cam bearings were line bored and the cam turned freely when newly built (both times). Clearances were .002-.004 first time, a little larger second round. Does anyone know what was stock spec? Yes, all clean (tanked). And cam was straightened and touch ground smooth, both times.
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