autonut

Thanks for your help. I did make some progress. I got the turn signal circuit to work. But as yet still haven't got the brake light circuit to work. Was not getting any voltage to the brake lights with the brake pressed. Installed a new master cyl switch. But then I noticed that when I energized the circuit the voltage from the Headlight switch goes to zero. Thus thought I either got a short or a power source problem. Thus hooked up an external power supply to the brake circuit and it energized the rear brake lights fine. Thus my question is why is the voltage source from the light switch going to zero? Must be a bad connection somewhere but where??? You cannot tell much from the wiring diagram. All it shows is that the brake switch wire goes to a fuse on the light switch but no clear where from the diagram of where it gets it's power from. Does anyone have a better connection diagram for the light switch in the maintenance manual or anywhere? In order to troubleshoot I need to know where it gets it's power from. The light switch assembly does not look like it is that easy to remove or replace if it is bad. HELP Lee

Wow you got it! Cannot believe I left that info out. Anyway I am struggling with a 1948 Olds 98!!! Spent about 2 or 3 days already trying to get both my brake and turn signals to work. I only have the wiring diagram which is good but it does not tell you everything! In particular the internals and how it works of the turn signal assy is not clear and also the headlight switch. To keep things shorter I finally did get the turn signals to work. They get their voltage from a source on the ignition switch. The brake stop switch however get it's voltage from the Headlight switch and wondering why they do not use the same source? Is there some reason to take it from the headlight switch assy? Anyway to diagnose of why I am not getting any brake lights is that I found that when the brake pedal is pressed, the voltage at the wire going to the turn signal switch goes to zero. There is apparently some bad contacts or whatever to cause this in the headlight switch?? But why be connected to the headlight switch? My understanding is that the brake lights DO NOT NEED THE HEADLIGHTS IN ANY WAY!! Thus confused and hate to try and remove the switch to try and figure out how it is wired. If anyone can tell me where this fuse on the light switch gets it's power to power the master cylinder stop switch, I would certainly appreciate it. Thank you. I might mention that I applied an outside source from the stop switch wire to the turn signal assy and the stop light lighted normally which tells me there is something wrong with the voltage source. Can anyone give me any help? Sure would be appreciated. Thanks

Does anyone have any articles or perhaps there is a better wiring diagram of just the brake & turn signal circuit. I am confused. Do not have the maintenance manual. I have checked several things but always come up with a blank. I did find a couple of things wrong. I replaced the master cylinder switch and that did nothing. The fuse was blown on the light switch that supplies voltage to one side of the switch. I still get no brake lights or no turn signals. Can anyone give me a clue? Frustrated. I should be able to figure this out but it has my head scratching. Lee

I have two 1948 Olds 98. One I am going to take to a painter to get repainted. It runs and is complete. The other is complete but picked it up from a wrecking yard before parts were removed. The engine has some compression problems, and have not been able to get it started. It has a broken trunk lid hinge. But doesn't seem like an easy task to repair. Removing the piece from the lid is of course no problem. But how in the devil does one remove the other hinge part within a cover that is held in place with a hinge pin. I tried to remove this pin by a couple different ways but was not successful. I don't imagine anyone has tangled with this kind of problem before. Why the hinge got broken in the first place is kind of a mystery. I want to get this other Olds at least a little more presentable to sell. Can anyone help me?? Lee

55er what is your name if I may ask? Where are you located? I always like to get more acquainted with those in the old car field. And like to always use first names. Don't know yours at the present. But anyway I have come to the same conclusion. I found an old 1952 Martin Seyneour catalog with paint chips, that has the paint chips in it that I was looking for. I will try to come up with a color that closely matches the original colors. They have a camera that will focus on the chip I believe that will come pretty close to the correct color. But just matching chips is probably the best way. Easiest and that way I will have the newer paint code and mixture. Could not see where members are listed on the website. Lee

Yes I have essentially the same info from two different manufacturers with different numbers. But unfortunately no way to get combination mixing colors that I know of. Do you have any suggestions at all? I am kind of stumped at this point and perhaps you are no better off than me. Thanks for trying to help however. Lee

Want to repaint my 1948 Olds 98 with the original colors more or less. I would like to paint the top color the factory color called "Tawnee Buff" #23. Ditzler #20448. Martin-Senour #61-1083 The bottom color I would like to paint with the factory color called "Praline Brown" #26. The Ditzler # was 20449. Martin-Senour #61-1082 I was wondering if anyone has the original mixing information on these two colors. I cannot find any cross matches to todays PPG paint colors unfortunately. Can anyone help me out? I am not too savvy regarding paint & paint codes. Had no luck at the local paint supply store. Lee Noga

What is the capacity of the '48 Radiator in qts or gallons? Want to get the correct anti freeze mix. Lee

Why is it when trying to find a accelerator pedal that uses ball studs for the bottom hinge, I get hit after hit for the ball stud but none for the pedal?? Tried to search different ways but always the same. Doesn't anyone produce a pedal that has ball sockets to fit into the ball studs? Has anyone had a similar problem? Lee Noga

Talked to Kyle. He did not take care of the wood patterns when he moved and they are now LOST!! So unfortunate, for me at least!!!!

Got your drawings but they are much different being a Standard from mine which is a Master. Still wondering what to do???

This Dodge needs a complete restoration but is all complete. I never restored it but drove it around quite a bit. Had a very strong engine that did not use any oil. It has been sitting for several years now, but feel I could still start it up and drive it. But old tires etc. I am too old to restore it now, so must sell. What can I ask for it? I know I should have taken pictures along with this post. But hot out there now. Will take a couple of pictures however and post. Has all the amenities of radio which worked, heater, etc. Drive at current speeds. I used to drive it to work at times and felt quite safe & comfortable with hydraulic brakes etc. If someone is interested to hear it run, I could get it to that point. Lee Noga

Does anyone know of anyone who has the pattern for the '26 Buick Master wood rails between the body and frame? Was given the name of someone who had a pair, but then he moved and lost them. Thus still trying to find a source. Can anyone help me? Can anyone make me a new rail? Lee

Thanks for the vacuum gauge tip Ben. Does that work pretty well? Might be an even better way to time the engine. Lee

Yes I removed the metal cover. Could see no markings on the flywheel period. I'll have to pull the lower flywheel cover I guess. Really hated to have to do that. If the markings are permanently embossed on the flywheen then I don't understand why it was not seen. Have to dig deeper. There is always an answer but sometimes the answer is extremely illusive. The flywheel is quite a ways back from the opening. In the Buick manual it shows the markings very close to the opening which makes me wonder if something is missing.

Yes I have the manual and that's where I checked! Thus the reason for this post. Lee

I purchased a '49 Roadmaster about eight months ago. The other day I decided to check point gap and timing. Point gap was okay and then to check timing. We could not see any timing mark!! We put the timing light on all cylinders and was never able to see the timing mark we are suppose to see. Did the mark come off or did someone put the engine together without the mark?? All a mystery at this point!! Can anyone enlighten me on how the timing mark was attached to the flywheel? Most cars I have worked on, the timing mark is on the front crankshaft balancer and is easier to see and get at with a timing light. I have never been into a Buick eight engine so don't know how they are constructed. Hopefully someone can help me out of this dilemma. Engine runs okay so timing can't be that far off but no way to really check it. Any & all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks/Lee

I suspect it has to be a bumper jack since to raise the auto high enough to get the read tires off. Car has skirts so these have to come off first obviously. Just obtained the auto a few months ago, and it has a jack which goes under the frame. I'm sure it is not original. Lee Noga

Since I am sure I will not get used to this as I don't drive the '49 very often and since no one else has done this, I guess I will be the first one. Keeping the car original but safety is another issue. One must balance the two. Will let you know of my progress. Thanks/Lee

Turn signals on most autos are on the left side of the steering wheel. This is the only car I own that has them on the right side and is rather confusing for me. I don't want to get into an accident because I gave someone the wrong signal. My question is: has anyone reversed the position of the turn signal arm? If they have, perhaps they can save me a lot of time & effort. If I mount it on the left side, the left turn would be down as with most autos. Thus no wiring would have to be changed. I hope someone can answer me on this one. One might have to drill some new holes etc perhaps. Hoping to hear from someone on this before I try pulling the steering wheel off. Lee

Assuming that the Super & Roadmaster are the same lock, there is something really crazy with mine then. I can only remove my key when the teeth are up I've had my 49 Super four-door sedan (model 51) since 1978. Insert the key into the lock teeth down. Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock the handle. Turn the handle counterclockwise to unlatch the lid. Reverse the process to latch the lid and lock the handle. You should be able to remove the key in the locked and unlocked positions. I've had my 49 Super four-door sedan (model 51) since 1978. Insert the key into the lock teeth down. Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock the handle. Turn the handle counterclockwise to unlatch the lid. Reverse the process to latch the lid and lock the handle. You should be able to remove the key in the locked and unlocked positions.

I posted to the wrong pre-war forum, sorry. Am posting again in the proper year era. I no longer have an up to date Roster. Of all the phone calls I made from an old roster, none had the same phone #. Anyway I would like to talk with someone who owns a '49 Buick Roadmaster or I think the '42 thru '49 all used the same handle. But I am totally confused about this handle. Some locksmith had been into the lock before so wonder if it is put together right. I would like to talk with someone that can explain how the lock works. In my lock, the key has to be removed the same way it was put in. I would think that should be the locked position. But it is the open position where the lock can be turned to open the trunk. Thus how do you lock the trunk?? You obviously don't want to leave the key in it. I feel stupid for asking the question but please try and straighten this old codger out if you can. I just recently purchased this auto. My phone # is (509)967-2723. I would think the way this lock should work is that in the locked position you could not move the handle. Something is 180 deg out of phase but don't know what. Lee Noga

I no longer have an up to date Roster. Of all the phone calls I made from an old roster, none had the same phone #. Anyway I would like to talk with someone who owns a '49 Buick Roadmaster or I think the '42 thru '49 all used the same handle. But I am totally confused about this handle. Some locksmith had been into the lock before so wonder if it is put together right. I would like to talk with someone that can explain how the lock works. In my lock, the key has to be removed the same way it was put in. I would think that should be the locked position. But it is the open position where the lock can be turned to open the trunk. Thus how do you lock the trunk?? You obviously don't want to leave the key in it. I feel stupid for asking the question but please try and straighten this old codger out if you can. I just recently purchased this auto. My phone # is (509)967-2723. I would think the way this lock should work is that in the locked position you could not move the handle. Something is 180 deg out of phase but don't know what. Lee Noga

I have a '26 Buick Master Roadster that is all complete. But I need the passenger side chassis to body wood rail. Has anyone reproduced these? Can anyone give me a couple of leads of who might be able to help me out? Hoping to hear from someone. I will not be able to complete it because of my age but want to get it put back together at least. The chassis wheels and engine has been done. Lee Noga

How did the new one work. I didn't think they were available. Are they the correct resistance etc.? How much are they? Lee