rsb

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Everything posted by rsb

  1. rsb

    1927 chevy

    I would remove a couple of the leaker lifters and mic the O.D. Compare that measurement to the originals. Obviously if the originals are a thou or two bigger, that would account for the leakage. I suppose you could get away with using the originals if the radius end is up to spec. From what I have seen, the lifters usually check out. It's the camshaft lobes that wear like a saddle.
  2. rsb

    1927 chevy

    Welcome. You must have done it right because I was able to see it Unless your lifters are excessively loose in their bores, I think you will find some amount of leakage normal. I haven't seen a Chevy-4 engine yet that doesn't "mark it's spot" with a few drips of oil. Did this just start happening after the new lifters were installed or was it happening before? If the leakage is excessive (puddles), you might have a problem elsewhere. Excessive oiling of the cylinder head and rocker arm felt will cause drips, improper seal on timing gear cover where oil settles will tend to drip. Loose front and rear main bearings will allow oil to escape around the crank (more rapidly than usual). Most engine rebuilders tend to set the bearings too loose on the Chevy 4. Regards.
  3. Try Gary Wallace Regards, Ron
  4. rsb

    1936 Chevrolet

    That film can also be found on YouTube divided into several parts. It was most enjoyable to see. I only wish there was an equivalent film for 1928 - my year. Best Regards, Ron
  5. Check out THIS LINK for some more good information. Regards, Ron
  6. Looks like a good car from the pictures but I would scrutinize the wood. Especially the sills and door pillars. An ice pick poked into some inconspicuous locations can tell you a lot. If the car is solid, I wouldn't have a problem going $4k or a little more. It all depends on what you want to do with it. In my opinion based on what I've seen, fully restored, the car is probably worth $8k to $10k here in CA depending on the quality of the restoration. That doesn't leave you much to work with if you want to restore the car and get your money back at selling time. If on the other hand you just want a good driver OR money isn't an issue, it may be the right car for you. Best wishes on your decision. Ron
  7. rsb

    AMMETER FLUTTERS

    Check if your fan belt is tight.
  8. I would say it has less to do with the composition of the case and more about the voltage requirement of the timing light. I have the light pictured above and have used it many times on my 6-volt car. I just connect the power leads to a 12V battery sitting on the floor instead of the battery in the car. Regards, Ron
  9. I have had good luck using electrolysis to de-rust my parts. Of course you need to be able to submerge the part. It doesn't tend to flash-rust after like HCl and it doesn't attack the good metal either. All you need is a container, sacrificial anode(s) (rebar works for me), water and sodium carbonate as an electrolyte and a battery charger. Google has tons of info on the subject. Best Regards, Ron
  10. I think I took this at the Hays museum in Sacramento, CA. Regards, Ron
  11. rsb

    ignition assy

    You might find answers to some of your questions at the following website. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com On the 1931 Chevy Electrolocks that I have seen, the end of the armored cable mounts to the side of the distributor and connects to the points. I have no experience with the 29-30. Regards, Ron
  12. IMHO, Why don't you just go peddle your s**t in the Buy/Sell forum where it belongs and leave this forum for Chevrolet discussions?
  13. Carbon throw-out bearing going bye-bye? I had a similar experience with a 28 Chevy. You can try adjusting it up but in the end, plan on dropping the transmission. Regards, Ron
  14. I hope you find what you're looking for. Alaska didn't become a state until 1959. It didn't even become an organized territory until about 1912. Any history that early is probably still in Fairbanks if it still exists. Keep us posted if you find something. Best Wishes, Ron
  15. http://www.wbnoble.com/WN_articles/wn_articles-index.html
  16. May have been disconnected for a reason. Chances are, it will need new buffer and filter capacitors and perhaps rectifier (OZ4?) tube and vibrator replaced. Ron
  17. Ok, I admit I didn't check the shipping rate and $12.95 sounds high. Still, a person must decide whether this is a one-time purchase or whether the $12.90 Travis entry fee ($25-$12.10) would save money in the long run on future orders. Best Wishes, Ron
  18. You know a little googling goes a long way. I found a place called Herman's Central that has the 10-40 tap for $9.69. http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/qual-tech-1040-high-speed-steel-tap-13376.cfm?sid=google There's always MSC Industrial Supply as well. Regards, Ron
  19. Failing all that was said above, I say rock the car in high gear to make sure the starter isn't locked. Following that, clean the commutator on the starter with a shot of spray solvent. My 28 did the same thing and the cause was over-oiling the rear starter bearing got into the commutator and gummed up the brushes. There was no prior warning. It just wouldn't start one fine day. Best Regards, Ron
  20. I guess it depends on what YOU want the car to be. If it were me, I would assemble the car as-is (with any mechanical service necessary to make it reliable) and drive it. It's only original once. Regards, Ron
  21. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NpCDIswgY8 This is part one of an 8 part series. Search will list the rest. Regards, Ron
  22. rsb

    1929 Sedan

    http://www.20schevyparts.com
  23. Check the March G&D for details and registration. I'm planning to be there. Is anyone else here going? Regards, Ron