ralphnof49

My 47 has the original engine, rebuilt. The story on the car is that it had a V8 for some years and the V12 was kept to re-install later.

Just a couple of notes. There are 2 bolts in each front motor mount, the bottom ones are harder to get at. In my 1947 the water pumps have to come off to better clear the stabilizer bar in front of them. I lifted the engine out over the front- it depends on where you have the room.

After I sent the last reply I wondered if the tube can be installed upside down?

Since my filter canister is on the bench I thought I would measure the location of the hole in the center tube. It is 5 inches down from the top and about one half inch up from the umbrella rest that stops the filter from going lower. I don't know if they are all the same but that is where the hole is on mine. Hope that helps.

As far as I know from my 47, the orifice part way down the center tube is the only exit for oil to leave the filter, so it is critical. But I don't see how it would cause low oil pressure reading unless the filter canister is full of air instead of oil, as the sensor is before the filter. I suspect the pump is the problem.

I had a similar oil pressure problem that turned out to be a failed 0 ring gasket on the oil pump. During engine rebuild the oil pump was replaced by a rebuilt pump (I think) from EGGE. I replaced the pump with a Melling high output pump. The 0 ring gasket sitting on the shelf in the shop still on the pump actually broke up even more after a year. So you might have to check out the pump too. Oil pressure on a new pump should not be 0. It could be very hard on the valve lifters and cam shaft as it was on mine.

Perhaps one side of the coil is bad.

Thanks Peecher

Sorry. 1947 Lincoln V 12.

Is there a description of the flow of oil through the engine? Does the oil flow through the engine after the filter or just return to the oil pan? Does filtered oil go to the lifters? These are two of my questions. Thanks.

I find with my 47 that you can't shift as fast as you would in a more modern car transmission and shifting slower works OK.

Could it be the oil pressure sensor?

Narragansett sells a kit

Make sure the bracket holding the end of the starter is not pulling or pushing in any way- just providing support. If it does pull or push, it can cause the starter drive to bind on the flywheel only when it is hot. The barrel shaped part can have scars from the binding.

Thanks. I thought it might be bent too and tried to bend it to fit properly without success. I'm happy it works now.

In the photo of the bracket you can see where there are two holes on the oil pan part and where I drilled a third hole between them which is the one in the right position. I also had to be sure the starter was not pulled too much up to the oil pan, but the front to back fit seems the most critical. It is always a challenge on a car with so many years and when you don't know all the things done over the years. This car had a V8 in it for a time so the bracket could be from it.

OK I will take a picture of the bracket next chance I get. The starter is pictured on another thread.

Alan Whelihan suggested to check the support bracket on my 47 after the starter jammed on the flywheel when the engine was hot. The support bracket must not pull or push the starter only provide support with the starter tightly in place. My bracket had two holes to connect to the oil pan and neither was in the right position to not stress the starter. So I drilled another hole in the bracket resulting in a slot so the bracket could be positioned properly. Alan informs that the Lincoln bracket is slotted but the Ford one is not. Now no more starter trouble! I don't know the mechanics of how the starter shifts from the bracket stressing on it but there must not be much extra clearance between the starter drive and the flywheel. I hope this helps others that have a similar problem.

Here's my 47.

After replacing the starter and having a cooler running engine, the situation is much better. I won't know how much until the weather improves so I can drive more.

Thanks Dee. I have the heavy cables and had replaced the solenoid. With the new engine rebuild- last one not done right- the engine was heating too much as before so now I have had the radiator recored. The starter has failed so am going to get it rebuilt. I also have a new battery. It is one thing after another. I hope the starter will be the last!

This is the starter and drive. Can you tell if it is the early or late 1947 version?

My starter has always had trouble with a hot engine. It finally has died. Examining it reveals it is a Ford B10 with a drive that looks like Lincoln 5EH-11350. Is the Ford started not as strong as the Lincoln one? I don't know who put the Ford one on. I need a source for a Lincoln starter. Thanks.

I have radials on my 1947. they are P205 75R15. They do not have tubes and ride well.

Thanks for the replies. I thought there might be bronze bushings, but glad to hear that GL-4 would not be damaging. Perhaps the GL-1 recommendation was made when it was the best on the market.