ralphnof49

The problem sounds like fuel shortage at higher speeds. Could it be a clogged fuel filter?

Is the o ring type on ebay known to fit the Lincoln? If so it could be a lot better than the cork type.

Thanks Tom.

Thanks to both for your thoughtful comments. For sure good wiring and connections are most important. The point about the cigarette lighter is one we should all check out. Tom please explain how you check voltage drop so we can do it right since greater resistance can cause wires to heat. The high current circuits would include lights and horn and generator I assume- any others to check.

After looking at a pre 1967 Corvette with wiring melted I began to wonder if our old Lincolns need more protection. My 1947 has circuit breakers for the lights and a breaker for the window hydraulic system, but does it need more protection for the ignition system and the horn relay? Opinions please. I am going to add protection for my 1961 Corvette.

When rebuilding my 1947 the shops that had V8 experience still had trouble. Two places were the valve train and the sleeve for the fuel pump push rod- that sleeve needs to be replaced. It is best to use updated valves etc. Also best to use a higher output oil pump. There has been lots of posts on the valve issues.

Interesting that there are three types- two with two terminals and one with three. JBooths picture has two and the service bulletins from 19tom40 show three types. The first two terminal type is from 1936 to 1939 according to the service bulletin and the three terminal type is from 1941 on. A difference for 1940 is the beginning of the use of the bimetal strip. The service bulletins don't show radio suppressor capacitors. Beltfed,for my 1947, I did use the original board with two ignition resistors and it all works fine. The left terminal is battery power, the center is for headlights and the right is for running lights, radio and accessories. For the 1940, 1941 and later, if a power surge occurs the bimetal strip lifts up and breaks the contact. The coil pulls it back down and if the power surge continues the cycle is repeated. In normal operation the coil keeps the points from "fluttering" according to the service bulletin from Tom.

That would make sense, although there is no evidence that the rivets were changed or the solder points were redone.

Thanks for the reference to the previous topic. I find it interesting that my original circuit breaker had no coils, only the bimetal strips. I see no reference to that type in the service bulletins.

This follows the topic on light switch. The circuit breaker unit was faulty for the headlight power. In the photo on the left is the old breaker and on the right is the NOS unit. The old one seems to be only a bimetal device and the NOS one has more under the clades and contact points. The NOS was likely a Ford one as the mounting board was rectangular and had one resister where the Lincoln one was more triangular and has places for two resisters for the ignition. The resisters are not related to the breakers except for sharing the mounting board. The NOS unit works for the lights so all is good. Just curious about the different mechanisms for the same function.

On my 47 Club coupe I had to remove the fan to get clearance as the radiator has to come out though the indentations at the sides of the body. Mine has a sheet metal piece at the front of the rad at the top and it also has to be removed. You need to protect the rad fins as you pull it out as it has to tip back toward the damper where the fan attaches.

Yes thanks that matches my wiring diagram too.

Thanks, yes I have the switch and have checked it and it is good.--Ralph

Thanks Larry, especially for the caution on tagging wires. I found a NOS unit at Narragansett, so I plan to use it. But I will also clean up the old one and see if I can restore it like you describe. I understand from Narragansett that the rating for each side is different; 30 amps for headlights and 15 amps for the other accessory circuits. So some people use new style breakers instead of the original unit, no doubt it would cost less.

In testing with a voltmeter, the third post on the breaker has 6 volts and so does the light switch. But when I pull the light switch to the running light position the voltage is no longer there, If I switch the power on the light switch so the red wire is powering the running lights they come on as do the headlights when the red wire is connected to the correct terminal for headlights. So I assume the breaker for the accessory and running lights is faulty. Can a person repair the breaker- I assume not- or is it best to replace it?

Thanks Larry. I finally identified the box containing the circuit breaker with help from the people at Narragansett. I suspect the breaker has become faulty and hope to test it today. Your description is very helpful. The breaker was hard to see as the tube for the defroster gets in the way so I removed it for now and can better visualize the breaker. I'll send you an email if I get stuck. ---Ralph

The switch needs two 6 volt supplies and the wiring diagrams show a three pole circuit breaker that both are connected to. My 1947 has no power to one of the wires and I can only find one 2 pole circuit breaker. Am I missing the three pole breaker? The two pole one is only attached to wires. Is the three pole breaker located in a specific place under the dash? Thanks for help on this annoying problem.

I agree with Peecher. I had two bad valves, one from a new kit and the old one in the carb. Let the carb sit on the bench with gas in it and the gas will leak out. You can't set the idle with the valve leaking.

Unfortunately, the neighbor passed away a few years ago and all of his collection is disbursed. Ralph

Williamson's in Arkansas can repair them.

You could try Williamson's in Arkansas. They did mine.

If you have alcohol in the gasoline add a stabilizer as it can damage the carburetor and maybe other fuel system components.

My 47 Club Coupe trunk falls down too easy now. I see that Ford suppliers have new support arms with springs. Does any one know if they are the same as the Lincoln ones? Thanks

In my 47 engine the bushing could not be pulled from the top and the camshaft has to be removed to push it out the bottom. I was having trouble connecting the oil flow to the fuel pump where it contacts the push rod to the oil consumption issue at the valve guides.

Instead of a 12 v booster you could use a spare Optima 6v battery to boost with. They can be carried in any position and don't leak.