ralphnof49

Here is the paragraph from the manual.

Do you have the service manual for Ford, Mercury and Lincoln 1946 thru 1948? If so page 210 has directions for removal and replacement for the ignition switch. I tried to copy it to here but it won't accept PDF format. A set screw holds the pull knob to the shaft. Then undo 2 screws under the dash and remove it. then see Ray 500 message.

i took mine off to clean it as it is hard to see what you are doing with it on. It is not too hard to get it off.

Both condensers can fail at the same time as it happened to me.

Only 3 hours to go and bid only just over 12,000. Might have reserve.

Dennis Carpenter has switches that look the same as CG although connections are different. Dennis carpenter states switches are for floor shift transmissions, CG does not say but they look pretty crude for column mount. Perhaps they are for firewall mount?

Thanks

Thanks for the idea.

There is nothing on the linkage at the firewall. I don't know if it could be on the steering column.

Our 47 Club Coupe has back up lights which were likely an after market accessory. However, I cannot find the switch for turning them on when backing. I do have the wires in the engine compartment and the lights do work when power is connected. Does any one know the location of the switch and how it was operated?

Thank you. My readings were quite a lot lower. Rebuild by Skip should fix it.

Thanks for your reply. I do have the correct voltage at 2.8 to 3.1, but I am not getting a strong spark. When I test with my timing light I can see there is voltage flow but it is not enough to fire the spark plus. I had the coil rebuilt in 2017 (rather replaced with a 1940 coil. I have sent it to Skip Haney this time to be rebuilt and hope that works. I have checked all components of the distributor and points are set and current flows and is interrupted when the points break. Timing is set manually so will check dwell when the engine is running.

Very creative, I will be interested to hear how it works when you get it running in the spring.

I am having trouble now with the distributor in my 47 Lincoln. I have no spark and have checked the points and voltage to the connections and they seem OK. Now I am trying to test the coils. Resistance on the secondary side both read 3800 ohms. I can't see how to measure the primary resistance. Does anyone know what the secondary resistance should be? Thanks.

There is also a bundle of wires that run on the driver's side of the transmission hump that go back to the heater fans and into the trunk

The light above the license plate was the only brake light originally. Narragansett made wiring that causes all three rear lights to come on for brake lights. The body harness to the rear travelled inside the car on the passenger side. The trunk light was not mercury but came on with a switch on the B pillar on the passenger side in the club coupe. On the convertible I don't know but suspect it was just lower. I don't know the number of wires to the signal light switch off hand. There were wiring diagrams on the forum back in 2010 and you can search for them. The parts book I have covers all years to 1946 but it works for 1947. I have a 1947 Club Coupe.

I have installed a rebuilt transmission and replaced the rear seal on the engine. Also built an adapter for the engine stand. I still have to put the hood back on and install the floor panels. This is for our 1947 Club Coupe

We did make an adapter for the engine stand. The graphite rope seal is in installed and the engine back in the car. The seal has to have ultra RTV on the back to hold it in place. this means it cannot be soaked in oil first. To put the seal in the channel above the crank, remove the bearing cap and the seal holder and then install the seal in it and coat with engine installation lube and then the holder installed around the crank. Install the seal in the lower half of the seal holder and coat it with lube. Then the bearing cap is coated and bolted in place. I hope this helps.

Thanks Colin, the adaptor looks very good. I think we will make one.

I looked for plans to build the attachment to bolt to the exhaust manifold without success. KR Wilson made them and so did George Trickett but neither available now. Does anyone know where to find plans?

We have found it impossible to replace the seal with the crankshaft in the car because the seal has to be compressed to fit and that is too much force which causes the seal to fray apart. So the engine is out of the car and we are debating how best to rotate it on an engine stand. What do members have for advice - I can't believe that this is so difficult.

We spent several hours trying to pull/ push the seal around the crank without success as the end of the seal just comes apart as we put the Sneaky Pete on it. Is there a different seal that stays together? i did soak the seal in engine oil for two days before trying to install it. Oil is needed because it is the only lube for the seal for its life, other wise the seal dries and will get shredded. It may be necessary to pull the engine and the crankshaft to get the seal in which is a huge job just to replace the seal. Does any one have a solution or can recommend someone to ask about this? Thanks

I think so but use a light to look down the hole and see the space where the oil flows through

We wrestled the oil pan off yesterday and found the channels for the seal are correct. Most of the seal had come out especially over the crank shaft where there was none left. I do not know why this happened but it seemed there might not have been enough oil around the seal when it was installed. I had purchased upper and lower replacement seal channels but the ones in the engine appear fine. These are part numbers 91A-6335 and 91B-6336 so these are extras. We found a tool for removing and replacing the seal over the crank shaft, it is from Lisle and called the Sneaky Pete seal tool. Now we have to clean everything and put the new seal in. Is there agreement with soaking the new seal in engine oil before installing it?