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  1. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have read a recent article in Hemmings Classic cars regarding a babbit shop. I am a "modern" ASE mechanic but I still can not picture what "babbit" looks like or how the heck it works. I know a bearing surface is necessary. I know where and how an insert bearing works. But these are machined parts you can hold in your hand and just looking at them you can understand that, along with a slim layer of engine oil work to reduce friction and absorb the wear of the crankshaft or rods. Now, based on my understanding (which is minimal mind you) - babbit is "poured" onto the block, crank, rod ends or where-ever a bearing surface is required. This occurs to me that the bearing metal must be molten when poured, and that seems crazy. And insert bearing, well made ones at least, are perfectly round and even width all the way around. Babbit it seems, would have high spots and low spots. I just don't get it. Does anybody have a close up picture of what "babbitt" looks like? especially as it sits where the bearing surface should? </div></div> Google is your friend. http://www.gasenginemagazine.com/complete-archive/1352/ Among many others. (BTW, that's "babbitt" with two "t"s)
  2. Ooo! Dream car time? My pick? No question. 3 words for ya. Auburn Boattail Speedster. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> I'll have to be content to fiddle with all my other vintage junque instead tho. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> '38 Buick 41 '50 Chev 4dr Fleetline w/wide whites, skirts and visor. (Jag V-12 transplant in progress) '63 Nova Conv. (currently in upgrade mode) '64 Chevelle Conv. 5 old Harleys (35-78) and 2 modern ones. Oughta keep me busy until I keel over. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My engine seems to have a slight miss also. Biggest issue is it only gets about 12 mpg at 50 mph, and really run out of steam after about 55 mph. Vacuum gage fluctuates about 1 inHg (how steady should it be?) when running at a fast idle. I'll be checking valve adjustment this weekend, may also swap coils. All the other ignition stuff has been looked over pretty closely over the recent past. I'll let you know what I end up with. Jeff </div></div> Jeff. Can't advise regarding road mileage, but... My rig ran a *lot* better when I discovered the vacuum advance was holed and the centrifugal advance was froze up. Replacing the advance pot and freeing up the centrifugal advance made a ~huge~ difference. Acceleration from idle became downright snappy. I know that running without enough "lead" will result in poor economy. Might want to verify they're both working properly. (Free advice always being worth what you pay for it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />)
  4. More than one tight one. Four. No mileage to put on at this point. Local law enforcement frowns on driving cars that lack interiors, seats and glass. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I'm going to be receiving the carb kit and ign. wires soon. I think I'm going to wait until then. Anything else is wasted gas. Please see my thread about the thermostatic idle speed gizmo. I'm tearing my hair over it.
  5. Need inner rockers and front and rear floors for a 38 model 41 sedan. How much?
  6. I'm stumped with this one. The cold idle control on my '38 has always just flopped around and done nothing. Close examination revealed that the pointer portion was frozen in place, so I removed it and washed out all the grit and nastyness in the bimetal element. When removed, there was the cup containing the coil and attached to the pointer, and a nut. Nothing between them. When I went to reinstall it, I discovered that when the nut was tight, it was once again frozen. It looks like the cup on the back contacts the manifold, but there's no spot for it to index to. Once the nut is tight to the point that the cup has a little friction, the pointer part is stuck again. I can't imagine the bimetal coil having enough power to overcome that much drag. The factory manual basically says it's set at the factory and don't diddle with it, except to set the pointer in the vertical position. The cam flops around independant of the pointer. I figure I should be able to move the pointer once it's reattached. Not so. Am I missing something fundamental here? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  7. I tried doing it by the book and got nowhere. Finally gave up and did it the way I understand. Got the engine hot. Shut down Pull coil wire Bump starter until #1 intake valve opens and closes, then a hair more. Feeler gauge and adjust both valves using a .016 go .018 no-go. Continued thru the firing order. Took about 10 minutes. Runs a lot better, but... Found 4 *way* tight valves with zero lash. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Vacuum now only fluxuates around 2" instead of the previous 5-6", but that's still not acceptable. Lord knows how long it's been run with tight valves. Likely I'll be grinding valves and resetting guides sometime this winter. That head looks like one heavy SOB. I feel like I'm cleaning up after somebody. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Replaced all ignition but the coil and wires and still have an intermittent miss. New wires on order. At that point the coil will be the only thing not replaced. Even found a new vacuum advance canister. Still haven't received the carb rebuild kit. That may help a lot too. I'd like to get thru this part and atack the brakes, but I'm sort of obsessive compulsive about finishing a step. Not gonna quit till I find this gremlin.
  8. I'm also seeking some 16" rims for my '38. I'll be following this thread with interest.
  9. Found his post and replied. Thanks for the tip! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> My '38 is pretty rotten at the floor and rockers.
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been a classic car enthusiast for many years. It does not seam as though there is much help out there for replacement sheet metal parts for Buicks. I have recently purchased a complete 37 Series 40 2 Door Sedan and a 4 Door Sedan. I will use these cars for templates and trial fit up. I have restored and built many hotrods over the years. I have a small but well equipted shop. I can produce replacement parts on a small scale / low production. These parts would be all hand fabricated so the question is what parts are you interested in example (rocker panels, 1/4 replacements, floor sections, rear body panels, etc). Looking for feed back. </div></div> I need both floors and the structural part of both rockers. (outers have been reskinned) Also the trunk was redone at a 15 degree angle so the spare doesn't fit. What're you looking at charging?
  11. Hi Jeff. Been away for a while. My "wiggle" is more like 3-5 InHg, so there's something definitely amiss. Dunno about your situation. What I did was replace all ignition components, (less coil) then tuned things as best I could. I'll be seeing the carb kit soon. Hopefully that'll give me a known basline to tune from. Unfortunately, everything I've seen points to a loose valve guide. I may be doing a valve grind this winter. We shall see.
  12. Do you use a special wrench/screwdriver tool for the tappets, or one of those P&G gapper tools? I'm having a tough time with getting all 3 things in concert. Sorta like doing a one legged accordion solo while juggling. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Any advice would be appreciated.
  13. Don't know about one of these. Every motorcycle I've ever owned have the mechanical tappets set on timing marks. Cold. Had a hotrodded Chev 6 with solids that was set up the same way. I've got to get a tappet wrench. You need 3 hands to do this with a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge with it running. Can you get the engine hot and adjust the valves like the hydraulic lifter motors? As seen at the bottom of this page: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT (Buicks.net)
  14. Ah well. Thanks for the advice. That looks like a neat gizmo. This adustment while running is new to me. I'm used to using timing marks. I'll attack them tonight and let ya know.
  15. Thanks for the history lesson Jon. I love this stuff. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Choke seems to work fairly well at this point. I'm gonna tweak with it a little and try and get it to come off sooner. I'm stubborn that way. So far it seems to work fairly well. Just slow to come off. Below 50 isn't too much of a problem here. When it starts dipping down to that point during the day I'll be driving the 4X4, as it'll likely be snowing at night. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> I'll be warming it up and adjusting the valves later. Is there such a thing as a *cold* valve adjustment for these? Much more fun to deal with a cold motor than a hot one. Was the linear expansion coefficient on the valvetrain components so unpredictable? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
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