Fred Zwicker

Model T Nick, I just checked my Hershey 2006 Booklet and here is what I found (all in Row RNH): Tip Tools RNH row location is: RNH 56-63, starting at the open corner of Row RNH. Starting at the open corner of the Tip Tools tent (at Space RNH 63), the space numbers get smaller. Starting at Tip Tools, row RNH runs from RNH 63 to RNH 1, so you have 63 spaces to search. Paul's Chrome Plating is located at RNH 43-45. There are two dealers listed in the Hershey 2006 Booklet under "Toys" in Row RNH: RNH 41-42 (just next to Paul's Chrome Plating location of RNH 43-45): Bill Walls of Columbus IN. RNH 35-36 (also close to Pauls' Chrome Plating): James Ryder of Wilton, ME. You may be able to locate either of the above through a Zaba Search, or by consulting AACA, if they provide such a service. Hopefully one of the above is the one that you are looking for. Fred from TP Tools (Tip Show Sales, Inc.)

I was at the TP Tools tent in the Red Field. What else was the vendor selling besides sheet metal model vehicles? There was a guy next to us selling slate paintings of antique cars and he had some other items on his table, but I didn't notice what they were. If you describe the location in relation to the TP Tools tent, I may be able to check my show book and try to figure it out. Fred

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Rob Ficken rebuilt my wiper motor and since he could not use my core (was warped), he sent a NOS Trico motor with a 5-year warranty, plus my old core back! The job was perfect and wipers work great. It was a big job to install in an upside-down position, but was well worth it. I did not have to remove the radio or heater; instead removed the glove box and could get at everything from there. This installation is not recommended for anyone wearing bifocals - I finally got an old pair of reading glasses without bifocals to complete the job. I took many photos of the assembly and taped down every screw and everything else to a piece of plastic with masking tape and marked each component (left, right, etc.) on the tape as they were removed, so no problem of mixing up anything. Anyone installing a wiper motor for a 1939 LaSalle can feel free to contact me, as I documented the entire process. Sometimes Ficken's email does not work as well as expected, as the first time I tried to contact him, the messages did not go through. Later I called him and found him to be excellent. He was at Hershey, but I didn't find his spaces. I recommend Ficken's Wiper Service to anyone, as he is an expert with Trico vacuum wipers. Fred Zwicker

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The rims designed for TUBELESS tires are different from TUBE TYPE rims. The lip is there to keep the tire from rolling off the rim in hard turns such as you may experience in an evasive action. You should always install radial tubes when installing radial tires on older style rims to avoid this situation. It has happened!!. There is no difference between radial and bias rims, only tires. </div></div> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Please clarify... In your first sentence, you say that the rims are different. In the last sentence, you say that there is no difference between radial and bias rims. Am I missing something? I have been talking with Diamondback Tires, who say that their radial tires do not require tubes. To be doubly sure, I called them and talked to someone who seemed to be in charge, giving him my make and model car. He repeated again that their tires positively do not require tubes if used on my 1939 LaSalle. Accordingly, I ordered a set this week. My plan is to sandblast the wheels and fill any minor rust imperfections (if any) and then primer and repaint the wheels first. I will then ask my local tire company to make the final decision as to whether radial tubes are necessary with my new radial tires. I am banking on the fact that the wheels on my car are probably very heavy steel and should not flex like on some other cars. There is a long thread on this on the Cadillac-LaSalle Forum and many say they have no trouble at all with radials and no tubes. Others say there could be problems. Also on the same forum, some say (when using radials) they are losing a hubcap on occasion, while others are not. I have large wheel covers and have installed a set of 16" beauty rings on the wheels as well. The 16" beauty rings slightly overlap the outside edge of the wheel cover and I am hoping that this will help hold the wheel cover on, after I make the change to radial tires. Click on above Attachment to see photo of the wheel cover with beauty ring. Any other ideas? Thanks! Fred

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> I've been going to Hershey for over 30 years and this year, was not driving, so told my friend who was driving the truck to watch for the big sign in the middle of Hershey Park Drive that will say "RED FIELD". Guess what? No sign this year and we drove past the entrance and had to turn around. Things such as this are trivial, but nevertheless add to the traffic congestion problem. (However, there seemed to be faster traffic flow than ever this year, so I shouldn't complain). Hoping for better entrance signs into the fields next year..... Fred

Rumor ?? I have been in the Red Field for 3 or 4 years now (since it was paved) and heard that next year the red field will be closed for Hershey spaces, as the Hershey amusement park wants to retain this area for parking. Rumor has it that vendors in this field will be moved elsewhere. Someone said that we will be moved to the other side of the Giant Center (now a golf course), after it is paved. Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Fred

I was kind of hoping that the person who removed a $159 Porter Cable Buffer from the display carton (and didn't pay for it), might want to send us his or her name and address so that we can send the warranty card and the side handle, which were still in the box - (at the TP Tools tent in the red field). Fred

I vote for the landscaping idea instead of fencing (with or without insurance). It is amazing how nicely things can be concealed behind a row of shrubs (arborvitae) that grow about one foot per year. They require almost zero maintenance. At work, a friend stored a huge motor home out back and we previously had a row of arborvitae around the parking area. It is shielded so nicely that the motor home is almost invisible. If your zoning will allow this as a barrier, it is the way to go. Fences require painting and the posts sometimes rot out. If you plant the proper size shrubs (at least 3 foot to start), within 2 or 3 years, the cars will be completely concealed and will enhance your property. Fred

IDEA? Maybe the AACA should promote this to all of their members who are vendors at Hershey. The AACA could furnish a camera-ready flyer (could be one page 8.5" x 11") to each vendor, along with the rules and maps sent with the stickers. Flyer would promote the AACA and have membership information and an "order blank" on the bottom of the flyer (kind of like a mail-in coupon). Many responsible vendors would be happy to reproduce these flyers on their copy machines and distribute them at the show. (I do not suggest that the AACA send out the flyers in bulk, due to high postage costs). I may offer this suggestion to the AACA this winter and may furnish a proposed draft of this flyer for their consideration. This would be a very low-cost method of getting the message out on our fine organization. I have been a life member since the 1970s and attending Hershey every year since 1974. Each year at Hershey, I see more and more "gray hairs" and not as many youngsters as in past years. (Too much time on the computers and no time for antique car restoration or Herhsey). If we want to preserve the hobby and our club, we need to constantly put out the message, so that we can attract more members. What better place than Hershey for such a program? (Later this same method could be used at other AACA events). Any other ideas? Fred Zwicker

I was looking at the Cole-Hersee site and was wondering how they connect for a 6-volt system? Do you run a 6-volt type (read - very heavy) cable from the battery to the switch - then to the old cable? How far can you run such a cable? For a 6-volt system, looks like this would be a difficult installation, in view of such a heavy cable being required? My 1939 LaSalle battery is under the front floor mat and requires pulling back the rug, unscrewing 4 bolts that hold down a metal cover and then removing this cover to get to the battery. I wouldn't want a shutoff switch in that location, as would probably not use it much. My present method is that I use a 6-volt Battery Tender, which keeps the battery fully charged all the time. The Battery Tender has a short wire from the battery connections (positive and negative) and this wire has a small plug on the end that lays in place along the edge of the carpet just below the driver's seat. The Battery Tender plugs into the wall and has a matching wire from the unit (charger) and I plug in this wire to the connection next to the seat, run the wire under the door and close the door. This wire is black in color and small, as all it does is supplies a trickle charge to the battery. When I want to start the car, the wire is visible (so I don't forget it), so I simply unplug the connection and car is started quickly. When I put the car back in the garage, I plug in the wire again and it is ready for the next time. This works for me. Fred

Why not call Rob Ficken (of Ficken Wiper Service)? See wiper info. Rob has been rebuilding Trico wiper motors for years. When Trico closed operations, his dad purchased all of the replacement wiper motors, parts and tooling from Trico. He just furnished a NOS wiper motor for my 1939 laSalle and it works great! Rob is in West Babylon, NY and can be reached at 631-587-3332. He will also be at Carlisle and Hershey this fall. Rob is probably the final authority on Trico wipers and should be able to tell you whatever you need to know. Fred Zwicker

SOLD 1/07 ON EBAY - I have a pair of glass headlight lenses in very old original Auto-Lite boxes, marked "1934 Studebaker' in pencil on the box. Each lens measures 9-1/4" outside diameter, with a slight outward curve. No cracks and they are in good shape. The box says, Auto-Lite Original Equipment. Headlamp Lens No. CB 1162. "The Electric Auto-Lite Company - Merchandising Division, Toledo, Ohio. While the boxes each have the same part number, the lenses are not identical (left and right perhaps?). Described as follows: #1 Lens: (Top of Lens) "TOP" "CONTROL BEAM HEADLAMP" #1 Lens: (Bottom of Lens) "CORCORAN BROWN LAMP COMPANY - CINCINNATI, OHIO U.S.A."' #2 Lens: (Top of Lens) "STABILITE HEAD LAMP - MADE IN U.S.A." #2 Lens: (Bottom of Lens) "THE CORCORAN BROWN LAMP CO - CINCINNATI, O" #2 Lens: (At edge of Lens) "US PAT 1945305 - PATS PENDING" I can bring these to Hershey if anyone is interested, or can send pictures by email only if you send me your email address. I took a quick picture tonight in my garage and you can see this by clicking on the "Attachment" icon on this page. Asking $100 for the pair. Fred fznz@comcast.net -------------------- 1939 LaSalle Convertible

SOLD ON EBAY 1/07. I have a pair of glass headlight lenses in very old original Auto-Lite boxes, marked "1934 Studebaker' in pencil on the box. Each lens measures 9-1/4" outside diameter, with a slight outward curve. No cracks and they are in good shape. The box says, Auto-Lite Original Equipment. Headlamp Lens No. CB 1162. "The Electric Auto-Lite Company - Merchandising Division, Toledo, Ohio. While the boxes each have the same part number, the lenses are not identical (left and right perhaps?). Described as follows: #1 Lens: (Top of Lens) "TOP" "CONTROL BEAM HEADLAMP" #1 Lens: (Bottom of Lens) "CORCORAN BROWN LAMP COMPANY - CINCINNATI, OHIO U.S.A."' #2 Lens: (Top of Lens) "STABILITE HEAD LAMP - MADE IN U.S.A." #2 Lens: (Bottom of Lens) "THE CORCORAN BROWN LAMP CO - CINCINNATI, O" #2 Lens: (At edge of Lens) "US PAT 1945305 - PATS PENDING" I can bring these to Hershey if anyone is interested, or can send pictures by email only if you send me your email address. I took a quick picture tonight in my garage and you can see this by clicking on the "Attachment" icon on this page. Asking $100 for the pair. Fred fznz@comcast.net

Post deleted by MR_TIP

John, Did you try the Cadillac LaSalle Club Forum? Fred

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I may have a problem with the electric fuel pump on my 1939 LaSalle convertible coupe. Car was purchased 2 months ago. Last Friday I ran out of gas (gauge was off, so now I know). I added 2 gallons to get to the gas station and filled the tank. I drove home (14 miles) without a problem. Car sat all weekend. This morning, was driving the car to work and noticed that the ammeter gauge was far to the left (discharging) while driving at highway speeds, even though lights were off. I drove back home and checked it futher. Here is what I found: Key off - ammeter sits in middle. Turn on parking lights with key off - ammeter shows only a slight discharge. Turn on head lights with key off - ammeter almost full discharge (far left on gauge). Both of these instances seem normal to me. Then I turned off lights and turned on key but did not start car - ammeter shows full discharge (far left) and electric fuel pump is running and KEEPS RUNNING. With key still in on position, but motor not yet started, I then turned the electric fuel pump OFF - the ammeter goes back towards the center, but not quite to center, showing a slight discharge, which seems normal to me. What I do not understand is that prior to all of this I am almost certain that the electric fuel pump cycled on for only a few seconds and then shut off (however I did not take notice of the ammeter at that time). It now seems as if the electric fuel pump will not shut off and battery discharges and even when running, shows a full discharge on the ammeter. I am afraid to drive the car, although this morning drove part way to work (about 4 miles round trip and no problem, other than the ammeter showing a discharge the entire trip and lights were off. I did not observe any fuel leakage and car ran well. Is it possible that running out of gas previously could have damaged the fuel pump? Shouldn't the fuel pump shut off after it fills up the carburetor? I do not know what type of electric fuel pump I have, but do know that it is round and mounted verticlaly about half-way between gas tank and motor and has an in-line fuel filter between tank and pump and it looks to be fairly new. (I will try to take a better look in the morning). The fuel line runs from the electric fuel pump up to the original fuel factory pump, which may or may not be operable, but gives the motor an original look. Any ideas? Thanks. Fred