joe_padavano

I'll add that early Caddy TH400s also use this small connector and Fatsco has the correct o-rings for them.

Just match up the old o-ring at a hardware store or Tractor Supply. The cross section is more important than matching the exact diameter. Silicone is your best bet for chemical resistance, but viton will work.

CR and operating RPMs. The improved port flow from OHVs made a huge difference once the rest of the engine was upgraded to take advantage of that. We could be having this same discussion about pushrod motors vs OHC motors.

More than just those. For example, over 150% of all Oldsmobile W30 cars ever made still survive.

You do realize that any 60-year old car will have fewer for sale today than there were ten years ago, right? And there will be fewer still ten years from now.

If the threads are straight, then no amount of teflon tape will seal them reliably. Straight threads require a sealing washer.

Pictures of both the fitting and the hole you are trying to put it into would help. Also the old plastic part if you have it. The only time you need teflon tape or other sealant is for tapered pipe threads. Are you sure the red wasn't thread locker on straight threads?

1947 Pontiac

The eccentric on a Pontiac actually has a separate ring that goes over the outside of it. This is likely what you feel spinning. The eccentric itself has a tab that keys it to the cam gear.

The third line on the pump is fuel return to the tank, not a vent. Replacement pumps are cheap.

It looks more like the high current relay switch used on dual-battery setups where the second battery is for the camper and the switch disconnects it when the vehicle isn't running. Depends on whether or not it is rated for intermittent (starter use) or constant (dual battery use) current.

Dual points and three lobes on a six means that each set of points fires every other cylinder in the firing order. Bloo is right, there have to be two coils. As far as the points are concerned, each set is firing a three cylinder engine. You essentially have two concentric three cylinder distributors in a common housing. You can check dwell for each set of points independently by using a dwellmeter on the six cylinder setting and multiply by 2. Timing only cares about the no. 1 plug, not the number of sets of points, as Bloo noted. This dual point/dual coil/half the number of lobes type of distributor is not that unusual. Ferrari used it, as did Holden for racing distributors. This is the modern Holden version.

Olds fuel senders up through 1964 are 30 ohm. No one makes new ones. You will either have to find a good used one or have yours rebuilt.

Base equipment rear axle with automatic was 2.78:1. There were a number of optional ratios available from the factory: 2.56, 2.78, 3.23, 3.42, and 3.91.

What? You mean that simply using one's name as the post title isn't descriptive enough??? 🤣

I'll second Librandi. I've also had excellent results from Qual-Krom in Erie, PA, especially for pot metal. For bumpers, TriCity Plating in TN has been the most reasonable on price and also does excellent work.

You can find the Axalta tech sheets here. You'll need to know exactly which primer, paint, and clear coat you are planning on using. https://www.axalta.com/commercialtransportation_us/en_US/products/technical-data-sheets.html

Read the tech sheets for the paint you plan to use. They will tell you exactly what prep is required. Following the manufacturer's process is mandatory for any claim against the warranty. There's no need to crowdsource this.

The reality is that all these extended warranties are is an insurance policy, and a very lucrative business for the seller at that. Same thing apparently applies to "premium grade" vs. regular quality parts. I bought the "premium grade brake drums from NAPA for my dually truck (at great expense). Turns out they were just as out-of-round as the regular grade parts. The significantly higher price just paid for the extended warranty.

No need to ask - BC/CC is enamel (urethane most likely, with catalyst). The real question is, what is the exact wording of the warranty? Paint longevity is almost entirely dependent on surface prep and application. There are so many ways for a company to weasel out of a warranty that you had better fully understand the terms.

There is no magic database that can be searched, and as Glenn correctly points out, the odds are that the car was recycled into a Kia or Hyundai decades ago.

Depends on how it works. It appears that the two circular springs are intended to provide a specific load (possibly for some soil testing standard?) and the dial indicator measures deflection.

The Soiltest name on the crossbar suggests that this is a soil compression or compaction tester of some sort. That company also makes concrete compression testers.

Parts for the 1968-72 GM A-body cars pretty much grow on trees. Any auto parts source can get them. Here are the listings at RockAuto. Be aware that the passenger side fender needs to come off to access a couple of the fasteners needed to remove the under-dash HVAC box. At a minimum you need to remove the inner fender.

More likely it's the center sliding spline for a two-piece driveshaft with a center bearing. My 1962 Olds F85 has a similar center yoke. The center bearing is pressed over the female mating part that is built into the front part of the driveshaft.