Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

BillD's Achievements



  1. Rawja, I will post pictures, parts, and overview soon. Thanks.
  2. Barney, My only plan for the old ABS assembly was to try to get core value for it. I'd be happy for you to have it. I'm in south Austin, past the airport, very close to McKinney Falls State Park. Feel free to email me (see my original post) to discuss a rendezvous. Bill
  3. My friend and I replaced the Teves ABS brake system on my '89 with a traditional master cylinder / vacuum booster yesterday, and I couldn't be more pleased. Like most everyone, I battled with the Teves on and off again over the years (more on, than off). But no more. I'm happy to report that we did the whole job in one day, and the results are super tight brakes. I got the vacuum booster, master cylinder, two proportioner valves, some line, couplings and a T-joint for about $200, which is about $450 less than a remanufactured Teves system from Prior. The system I took off was pretty much shot: leaking pump, leaking accumulator, and rusted almost beyond recognition. I'd been putting off replacing it for almost two years, topping it off with brake fluid weekly, and feeling guilty about the environment. It finally completely went out on me about a year ago, leaving the car un-drivable. I did my research and bought all the big parts prior to yesterday, which is why we got it done in a day. All my research suggested it was a straight-forward job, which it was. We only had two unexpected hiccups; both were minor. Anti-lock brakes are a nice safety net, but down here in Texas, in the 10 years I've driven this car, I've only had the ABS engage once. I'm a competent braker, when it comes to tight situations, so ABS isn't something that's very important to me. Others feel differently, I'm sure, so this mod isn't for everyone. Of course, I've only driven it for one day and I haven't tried to lock up the wheels yet, so it's a bit premature to do a victory march. However, the braking response is just as good as with the Teves, so unless our adapter fittings spring a leak, I don't expect any problems. I'm sure a few others have done this before, but I could find very little documentation on it, so I thought I'd post here in case anyone else is interested in the idea. If you are, feel free to email me at billyd.atx @ gmail . com. I'll try to post some pics of the finished mod when I get a chance.
  4. I read in a post on here a few years ago that the CRT's electron beam is affected by external magnetic fields in the environment around the car. This can cause the whole image the waver, similar to what you are describing. For some reason, this often happens when driving on a fly-over or over-pass - I have witnessed this many times. If the wavering is happening while the car is still, then it is probably not due to an external magnetic field, but rather a problem internal to the CRT system.
  5. Thanks, everyone. Sounds like a fluid flush couldn't hurt things. Anyone know the boiling point of brake fluid offhand? I'm curious about that theory. I'll check the stored codes again and see what indicators there are there. Thanks for your offer, Barney. I may take you up on that. I'm not ready to bite the $700 bullet just yet. Around the time I bought the car, I started entertaining the idea of refitting the brake system with a non-ABS master-cylinder that would feed the existing wheel circuits. The idea is that I could get a traditional master cylinder for a fraction of the cost of a rebuilt Teves unit. I wonder if anyone has ever done this. Perhaps the Riviera non-ABS master cylinder from the same year would be a place to start. Ideally, I would find a simple hydraulic master cylinder that fits the bolt pattern and actuator interface on the existing vacuum booster. Does this seem reasonable or am I being overly ambitious considering such a conversion? Anti-lock functionality is not really an important feature for me in this climate and maintenance on a simple hydraulic system would be cheaper over the long run. Bill
  6. Greetings, My mom and dad bought a new 1989 Reatta in August of that year. Mom drove it for 123,000 miles until 2005, and endured all the usual maintenance issues (headlight motors, window mechanisms, falling headliners, etc.) She also apparently had problems with the ABS system from time to time, but we were told that there was a bad computer module generating the CRT error messages and the inconsistent Red/Yellow dash light displays. In other words, the ABS was really working, but the lights were not (the ABS amber light is still on 90% of the time even though I've had successful anti-lock stops). The dealer said the computer was no long available. Then in July 2005, Mom had the following experience: · 95 degrees outside temp (she lives in San Antonio TX) · Drove on freeway for about two miles (car had been parked in the sun for at least 2 hours.) · Exited freeway and stopped for two lights. · Released brakes and got CRT message (?low brake pressure?) and then when she re-applied the brakes, heard ?a sound like the groaning noise in the pipes of an old house when you barely turn on a faucet.? Some stiffness in the pedal. · Parked the car in a nearby parking lot. The car sat for 45 min until my dad got there and drove the car approx 6 miles home with no further messages, lights or pedal stiffness. September 2005 · Same scenario · Took the car to dealer ? the same service writer they had dealt with since they bought the car (they trusted him) · Dealer pulled stored codes 27 and 21. Said they needed complete brake package, including the EBCM (which was now available??), all of which would cost $6385. (yikes!) · They declined and sold the car to me (I?m a pretty good shade tree mechanic) at the end of March after Dad and I ran all the brake tests suggested on reatta.net. All 7 tests were within tolerance. I drove the car without incident until the end of June this year. I was driving on the highway from Austin to Gruene in the early evening. Very hot outside temperature ? upper 90?s, the car had been sitting in the sun all morning and afternoon. Less than five minutes from my house I got stuck in start and stop traffic on the highway and had the same symptoms as before: the groaning noise when the pedal was first applied and ?Low Brake Pressure? alert on the CRT. During the groan the pedal was very stiff and the brakes hardly worked. After the pedal traveled about a centimeter (with much force on my part), the groaning would stop and the brakes would begin working almost normally. If I kept the pedal mostly depressed, the brakes would function well enough to deal with the traffic. If I let the pedal up all the way, the condition would reset, i.e. I would lose braking and get the groaning until the pedal traveled that first centimeter again. I?m theorizing that this is perhaps due to the front brake circuits kicking in after some resistance from the rear circuit is overcome. In any case, the one common factor in all three of these incidents is the hot outdoor temperature and the fact that car itself had been sitting directly in the sun for much of the afternoon prior to being driven. After the car cooled down in Gruene for a few hours, the brakes worked fine all the way home. It almost seems that the ambient temperature outside has something to do with the brake failure?? It?s also worth noting the brake system leaks fluid periodically. The leak is not consistent. Recently, I have pretty much determined that the leak only occurs when manually depressurizing the accumulator, e.g. as is done when topping off the reservoir. The leak is difficult to pinpoint, but it appears to come from behind or below the pump/accumulator assembly, perhaps where the pump integrates with that assembly. The system has gone for up to two months without leaking any fluid even after the last LOW BRAKE PRESSURE incident. I wonder if the seemingly rare low pressure condition (groaning and loss of braking power) is related to the leak condition. Any theories? I?d be grateful for any insight into this matter. My hope is to narrow the problem down to specific part or seal rather than resort to buying a whole new ABS assembly. Thanks for taking the time to read this rather long post. Bill Doughty
  • Create New...