mlander

PRE-WAR GENERAL AC SPARKPLUG CHART 1929-1942 ONLY. 1929-30???????...??..88 (18mm) 1931 thru 1937?????.??84 (18mm) 1938-39-40-41-42?...??.......46 (14mm) This an expanded list of just the 18mm sparkplugs only. 18mm by ½? reach CHAMPION D6 D9 D14 D16 D18* SEE BELOW D21 D23 D15Y POWER TIP D18Y POWER TIP DELCO AC C81 C82 C83 C85 C86 C87 C88 C85S POWER TIP C86S POWER TIP AUTOLITE 373 386 RESISTOR 388 RESISTOR 3116 POWER TIP Because a sparkplug number is listed on this sheet does not necessarily mean it is easily available from the various AC, Autolite or Champion dealers. At the rate that these plugs are being removed from manufacturer?s charts many sparkplugs will no longer be available, from any dealer shelves in even the near future. This seems to be particularly true of AC. Note that in many Buicks of the years from about 1939 to around 1942 were engineered with 10mm sparkplugs which were less than satisfactory in actual service. Many cylinder heads were remachined to use 14 mm with the 10 mm sparkplug insulator bodies which allowed more gap between the insulator body and the sparkplugs outer shell. M.L. ANDERSON

7/8"-18 t.p.i.! One number is given as AC 78 which is 7/8"-18 with a # 8 heat range by 5/8" Reach. AC-Type B is a 7/8-18 t.p.i.with a heat range of 8 per AC chart of 1945 no reach given but was probably 5/8". Edit 10/23/2006 According to my Denso and NGK calalogs these two companies do not make 7/8"-18 t.p.i. or 1/2" pipe sparkplugs! M.L. Anderson

My old shop manual for Oakland-Pontiac 1930-31-32 has a picture of of what sounds like the same coil-key you are talking about. Below is a paragraph from those 10 pages about the ignition. Quote as follows; The ignition switch is also installed as an integral part of this coil. The barrel on the locking device cannot be removed after once being inserted in the coil. These coils cannot be repaired and should never be tampered with. Since this is a GM product I am wondering if yours is a DELCO and if a lot of older cars made by GM or cars made with DELCO coils at that time were the same? If you haven?t been able to fix it permanently would a picture of it help you? The picture is small but I may be able to place it on this message. If you think it would help you. It does sound as if the replacement of the condenser (capacitor) would be first on the list. Yours M.L. Anderson

R16NYC plugs. They do have R16NYC5. Is that the same plug? Will ACR45XLS Should be RN16YC, RN16YC-5 and R45XLS not as shown above!!! The reason I couldn't get the above numbers to work is they have the letter "N" in the wrong place when I put the letter "N" in the correct place they work perfectly. Same also holds true with the AC after removing the letters AC it also works perfectly in the address below. http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp The callout in the book states that the plug for this is a Champion N18 which is replaced with the Champion RN14YC = Resistor plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 13/16" hex head, projected tip, copper core. M.L. Anderson

The book I have says the 54 Packard is for a Champion J8 sparkplug =14mm by 3/8 reach by # 8 heat range. http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross....nCrossWarning=1 The replacement for these plugs was found at the address above. Autolite = # 295 Denso = #W14US NGK = B6s Champion = RJ8C All are $2.24 each EDIT; The Delco AC at one place states the AC45 is the correct number. M.L. Anderson

After reading Clippers statement I went back to the Manual and finally found the callout which is typed below. Here is the callout in MoToR?s Manual pages 848/358 of the L-Head Engine Section about the gage and the method of using it. It doesn?t look like much as all it consists of is the cylindrical portion of a factory established length and some feeler gages. L-Head Engine Section Hydraulic Lifters Check the take-up reserve of each hydraulic unit after a valve grind job or when new valves are installed. This may be done by using by using the hydraulic tappet gage set shown in Fig. 4 before the springs and locks are installed. # 1. Remove the hydraulic plungers from the tappet bodies and place them on the work bench in the order in which they were removed from the engine. # 2. Install the valves without the springs. # 3. Bring # 1 piston to the top of its compression stroke. At this time the intake and the exhaust valve for this cylinder will be at the base of their respective lobes on the camshaft. # 4. Place the plug gauge of the gauge set in the lifter body, and while holding the valve down on its seat, check the clearance between the upper end of the plug and the valve stem, using the feeler gauges supplied with the gauge set, Fig. 5. # 5. The clearance should be between .030? and .070?. If less .030? <span style="font-style: italic"> <span style="text-decoration: underline">face off</span> the end of the valve stem until the desired clearance is obtained.</span> # 6. Repeat this operation on all the valves. Do not overlook having the piston at the top of its compression stroke when checking the corresponding valves for clearance. There are two pictures showing the gauge. One shows the gauge and the feeler stock and another one showing the use of the gage and the feeler stock. It doesn?t look very difficult, only time consuming! Edit: 21st edition, Second printing published 1958, L-Head Engine Section, page 847,848, 849 Yours, M.L.Anderson

Quote from BOZONONO valve lifter problems on my 54-359 #406770 - 09/07/06 11:10 PM I am looking for some information on lifter clatter on my 359 the engine was completely rebuilt 10 years ago but never started until recently. What I have now is an engine that runs beautifully until it warms up and then the clatter starts 16 lifters dancing in the engine. It?s disappointing. I only have about 3 hours running time on the engine any suggestions??? It has the aluminum head, new valve lifters, pistons and was done by a reputable mechanic back on the east coast who specialized in Duesenberg, Pierce Arrow and Packard?s. I am assuming that the problem is not the oil viscosity. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Also I am going back in my memory 54 years.</span> . I am assuming this is a Packard straight eight and not the V-8 which had hydraulic valve lifters I believe. If you have a shop manual of this old straight eight you should study carefully the part about grinding the valves. My Brother- in Law made what sounds like the same problem/mistake. Somewhere in the manual there is a paragraph that states about grinding the valves properly. The mistake he made is in not letting the engine heat up to its maximum temperature and then setting the valves to the proper clearance. Also the person who grinds the valves has to take off the valve stem end the same amount that is taken off the valve seat. This I believe is measured in the longitudinal direction of the valve and not off of the valve face angle! Just why this is so I do not know. Whether this is in the manual I also do not know. Maybe some other Packard straight eight owners will respond on this problem or at least I hope this is so. EDIT: Just when did Packard get Hydraulic valve lifters? Yours, M.L. Anderson

Plymouth---1928-29????.?..78S 1930-31???????????.86 1932 thru 1936????????..46 1937 thru1942??????.??..45 M.L. Anderson

Dodge---All thru 1929 except 1929 Six?.78S 1929 Six & All 1930-31?????.......?86 All 1932 thru 1936??????...?...?46 All 1937 thru 1942??????......??45 M.L. Andersonm

DeSoto---- Delco AC Sparkplugs All thru 1931???????? 86 All 1932-33-34-& 36 with H.C. & ?6 to 1 Head????. ...46 All others thru 1942 ?.?..45 M.L. Anderson

SPARKPLUG SPECIFICATION CHART PASSENGER CARS-1926-1942 PACKARD ONLY Thru 1929-Turbo Head.....78 1930 Turbo Head.............86 All thru 1931-Reg. Head...78S 1932..............................46 1933-34-35-36................45 1937-38.........................103S 1939-40-41-42...............106 I think there is a Packard TSB concerning 10MM plugs fouling (oil) and heads being rethreaded for 14MM plugs. M.L. Anderson

PackardV8; I have a copy of the Audels sparkplug chart of around 1935 which shows the relation of the old 7/8-18, 18mm and some K series 14mm plugs. The K (14mm) series seems to be the one that preceded the 4 (14mm) series of plugs. I need some one that can check the additions I have made to it to see if I am correct in my additions to the chart from the K series to the new 14mm chart. This is the point of contention as I have never seen a chart that does this. This chart seems to be a copy of an old Delco AC chart. Unfortunately it did not include a transfer over to the newer AC designation. I need someone to check my work!! This is due to the difficulty of finding the ?secret? of the reach designations. I believe I am right, but you can see how that goes. If you can feel safe to send me you E-mail address @ m9a3r5i7o2n@comcast.net I will attempt to send a copy of it to you post haste. I made this copy about two years ago but have not felt comfortable to place it on the Internet as no one has tried to verify my additions to it. When copying it I had it to draw it on Legal, 8 ½? x14?, paper so we may have some difficulty in doing this. I have never tried this before, therefore I don?t know if it is possible or not. It was drawn with Autodesk/AutoCad but a very old version and since these programs are so expensive I have never updated it at $3,600 a crack. Yours, M.L. Anderson

N-18 = 14mm # 18 heat range and ¾? reach. N19C_ = 46XL = 14mm by #6 heat range, by X = fine wire by skirted shell firing end 200? Core nose N16YC = 46XLS = 14mm by #6 heat range, by X = wide gap, by L =Long Reach, by S extended tip. N14Y = 45XLS = 14mm, by # 5 heat range, by X = wide gap, by L =Long Reach, by S extended tip. CR = commercial + resistor Delco AC plugs if the plug has no suffix it probably means that it is a ?Normal? reach plug, on a 14mm this means 3/8? reach. However you have to watch out for the suffices shown below, example N & S. No Letter means 3/8? reach on 14mm. F = means ½? reach on 14mm. FF = means ½? reach but fully threaded, that is no undercuts on thread. L = 7/16" reach on 14mm. XL = 3/4" reach on 14mm. Champion H10 =14mm by 7/16? reach, no heat range given = Delco AC 45L = 14mm by #5 heat range by 7/16? reach. New designation = RH10C = Resistor + 14mm by 7/16? reach + Copper core. For more on Champion plugs go here, but note that this is a British Champion chart. However it is very informative IF you study it very carefully!!! http://www.users.on.net/~geosurveys/charts.htm This chart is an American Champion sparkplug chart. http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/champjpg.htm These are Autolite charts. http://www.autolite.com/pdf/auto_crossref_0311.pdf http://www.autolite.com/pdf/auto_se6_0406.pdf http://www.autolite.com/pdf/auto_prinapp_0112.pdf http://www.autolite.com/pdf/autolite5_ce7_1217.pdf B.H. Quote; Also, in addition to the "4" (14mm) and "8" (18mm), designations for thread size, I believe there was also "10" and "11" listed. Brian Brian; you were right in looking up the GM Delco chart. Therefore I will continue to post stuff that you can understand and appreciate from the chart. # 1, the 10 was not a ten but a ?1? meaning a 10mm plug which AC still makes although I have never seen any. This is the plug that caused a big fiasco about 1939 on Buick & Chevrolet. Packard also used it I understand but never seemed to have a problem with it to my knowledge. The " 0" I believe was made in anticipation of more heat numbers,which did not occur! I don?t believe that AC ever made a 1/2 n.p.t. for old Ford Model T?s to my knowledge and I haven? seen any listing on the charts that I have. Altho in the listing on Ford there is a call-out of a ?28? which may or may not be a ½? n.p.t. sparkplug. # 2, The number ?7? means a 7/8?-18 threaded sparkplug and is an old designation from around the 1920?s or even earlier but was dropped in favor of the 18mm around 1930 which was dropped in 1932 in favor of the 14mm sparkplug. The reason I drew the sparkplugs of the ?G? series is due to my study of the Oakland-Pontiac V-8 of 1930-31-32 which used this sparkplug in 1930 & 1931 and the 1932 Pontiac used 14mm ?K? series sparkplugs. Later somewhere in the middle 1930?s they changed the numbering system very near to the system they use now. For some reason, of which I don?t have any information, Oldsmobile and Pontiac never seemed to get caught up in 10mm fiasco. Just why this was so I haven?t been able to discern. Packard used this 10mm ?# 106? sparkplug but never seemed to have any problems with it that I ever heard of. I have never seen one!!! Yours M.L. Anderson

Randy; I finally found out that the 5- mean a-.050" gap, .6- means .060" gap & 8- means .080" gap. These are gaps that require a HEI ignition so as to fire those large gaps. Edit; If you wish to have a copy of the Champion sparkplug chart here it is at; http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/champjpg.htm If you wish to see some old drawings of old plugs see this; http://home.comcast.net/~m9a3r5i7o2n/SPARKPLUGSG14-G12-G6.JPG.html Yours, M.L. Anderson

AC sparkplugs for Studebaker 1924 to 1942 only. All 1924-25-26 & 1928 Dict?.77 All others thru 1928????..78S All 1929-30-31-32?????.76 All 1939-40 Champion???..85 1941 Champion??????..44 All Others 1933 thru 1941??.86 All 1942 Models ?????..44 77 = 7/8? x 18 t.p.i by ½? reach by #7 heat range. 78 = 7/8? x 18 t.p.i. by ½? reach by #8 heat range. 76 = 7/8? x 18 t.p.i. by ½? reach by #6 heat range 85 = 18mm by #5 heat range (by ½? reach [color:"red"] ? ) 86 = 18mm by #6 heat range (by ½? reach [color:"red"] ? ) 44 = 14mm by #4 heat range by 3/8? reach. t.p.i. = threads per inch

PackardV8 Re: V8 spark plugs [Re: mlander] #411595 - 09/28/06 09:01 AM OK. So apparently the numeric value of the champion plug is the heat range. SO, if ONE heat range hotter is desired then what do we do????? Add 1 to the numeric value???? Subtract one????? Without the Champion sparkplug chart @ http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/champion_symbol_code.htm Iit is impossible to state just what a number or letter means but you have to be very careful about all heat numbers as some Japanese makes number from the lesser to the greater and some from the opposite direction. This is an old chart and difficult to read but is well worth the effort to decipher if one has the time and patience to do so. The best(?) information I have is that Champion numbers on regular automotive plugs is as follows, the lower numerical is cold and higher numerical are hotter. The Champion numbers for regular Automotive, Small Engine plugs should be 1(Cold) - 25(Hot). Aviation plugs are from 26-50. Hi performance plugs are 51-75. Industrial & Special Application 76-99. Yours, M. L. Anderson

I just ran up the words on search, "THROWOUT BEARING" in lots of places. Here's one below that has a picture to see if it is what you are talking about! http://www.performancepartswholesale.com/images/home/performance/centerforce-bearing.jpg Edit After I did the throwout bearing I got to wondering about the pilot bearing and doing the same thing as with the throw out bearing I found this; And there was quite afew of them also. Yours, M.L. Anderson

Champion N-18. = 14mm by 3/4 reach by 13/16? hex by 18 heat range number. Champion Traditional spark plug RN14YC R = Resistor, N =14mm by 3/4" reach, Y = Standard projected core nose, C = copper plug design. To Randy Berger; the Sparkplug Chart I have doesn't state the actual gap just that it was a special gap. I guess it is in the Shop and Tune up manual!

Go to sparkplug chart and pick the one you think it is! M.L. Anderson

DELCO AC STUDEBAKER SPARKPLUG SPECIFICATION CHART Passenger cars--- 1924-1942 only. All 1924-25-26 & 1928 Dictator 77 All others thru 1928?????..78S All 1929-30-31-32??????.76 1939-40 Champion??????85 1941 Champion???????.44 All others 1933 thru 1941???..86 All 1942??????????.44 First 7 of 77, 78s 76 ARE 7/8?-18 threads per inch with a Nominal reach of 5/8? Second 7 of 77 is the heat range of #7 Second 8 of 78S is the heat range of #8 Second 6 of 76 is the heat range of #6 The ?S? of the 78S is an extended tip. First 8 of the 85 is the 18mm by ½? REACH nominal reach and a heat range of #5. Denso & NGK do not make a 7/8-18 t.p.i. spark plug according to their catalog. M.L. Anderson

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been running RN14YC since 2002 but wanted a hotter plug. Trying to figure out what the 5 means at the end of RN16YC5 <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> R = Resistor, N =14mm by 3/4" reach, 14 is the heat range, Y = Standard Projected, C= Copper, A 4,5,6 or 8 means a wide gap required to meet Federal and California specification requirements. M. L. Anderson <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

B.H. Member Reged: 08/15/01 Posts: 2645 Loc: Western PA Re: V8 spark plugs 07/19/06 11:08 PM While my dad was always big on AC plugs in his Packard, I never had a problem finding the Champion plugs, and the N16YC (in the 56, H10 in the 55) seemed to run great. The Champion N16YC = 14mm by ¾? reach by standard Projected Core by copper. BH I am hoping that no one puts these plugs into a tapped hole that is supposed to receive an H10 plug as the difference in the reach is 5/16? . I don?t know if this would hit the piston or not but has no application in a place that had an H10 Champion. I hope no one tries this as it might just be disastrous. What was the original sparkplug for that year of V-8? Yours M.L. Anderson

Champion H10 plugs are 14mm by 7/16? reach by 13/16? Hex. Champion Traditional spark plug RH10C $2.37 http://www.densoiridium.com/identifyplugs.htm Chart explaining the Denso marking system. Denso equivalent H-10 Equivalent = W 16 LS http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/car_truck_suv/results.asp Chart explaining the NGK marking system. H-10 Equivalent = B6L I can?t find a plug for GM DELCO to replace a Champion H-10 for sure but It is likely to be an AC-44 or 45 Here is an address that claims it has the H 10 above equivalent. http://www.championsparkplugs.com/result...nCrossWarning=1 R = Resistor C = Copper Core = RH10C M.L. Anderson

8. Hypoid Ring gear and pinion wheelsl (1925). Not challenged. In view of the fact that Gleason was at this time the worlds foremost manufacturer of Gear grinding/cutting machinery does this stand up to a thorough and complete examination of ?First? after all it doesn?t even state that they may have been the first to use Gleason equipment to make Hypoid ring gears and pinion wheels. I would like to know just what Gleason has to say about this. But then again they may not want to annoy any of their present customers although Packard is obviously not one of them. The Packard ?First? should state also that they used Gleason equipment and knowledge to make these ring gears/pinion wheels and if Packard did not use Gleason equipment just what did they use? One of these statements of firsts originally even included the statement that Packard made the machinery, didn't it??? Firsts should include the Truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth, shouldn't it? Yours, M.L. Anderson

The 1940 Houdaille shocks were different from some other Houdaille shocks as they had an extra thermostatic valve installed. If you have an old MoTor?s Manual you can see this. There is a 40 page teardown on the Internet! But it clearly used to show the later models of this shock. If you have a copy of the old MoTor?s Manual you might find it in there. Mine is an old falling apart Blue backed cover I have had since 1949 so if you can find one of similar age in one piece you might find the difference. The only real difference I can see is the thermostatic valve. This shock was also used on Mercury and Lincoln! Go to http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Ford/Haudaille/pages/houdaille%2031_jpg.htm Yours, M.L. Anderson