mlander
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Posts posted by mlander
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AMAZING that virgilmule did it so well! All sorts and sizes of Acorn nuts!
http://www.afchromebolts.com/catalog_acorns.html
M.L. Anderson
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HERE IS ANOTHER SOURCE?;
http://www.oldcarstuff.com/index.html
I can't get the picture to come up but possibly you can.
M.L. Anderson
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Quote from Taco;
I think you can't just put new balls in an old bearing. Everything in the bearing has become bad I think.
Can we replace the old ball bearings for roller bearings?
Gr.
Taco.
I spent several hours yesterday trying to do the very thing you seem to propose, that is replacing ball bearing with tapered roller bearing but have failed to come to a good or even a bad decision. Since Hyatt of the old GM is now in the hand of the Chinese it leaves a quandary of decisions. Of just how to find the proper bearing number transposing using SWENSKA KUGELLAGER FABRIK numbers to old American numbers or possibly have a catalog and some good help from the Swedish factory engineers. Let us hope that SKF is not in the hands of the Chinese!!!
One must have either or both of the following;
# 1, The numbers off the old bearings.
# 2, The sizes of, Width of the race, the Inside Diameter, the Outside Diameter. A picture of the bearing might help.
A least that might be a very good start. I didn’t go Fifnir, Timken or any other, why I don’t know! Probably the best choice is Timken.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products
M. L. Anderson
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Quote from; rlbleeker
My 1916 has standard tapered roller bearings in the front. Should be a fairly simple conversion I'd think. Is that frowned upon?
Any old timer should remember the tapered roller used by Fomoco and Chrysler who had very little trouble with wheel bearing since they were tapered rollers and not ball bearing as were the old New Departures on GM products. Hyatt was/is a division of GM and were purchased by GM because of their ability to make tapered roller bearing which when properly installed are far superior to ball bearing for thrust purposes. Just what year it was that GM changed to tapered roller I don’t remember but was, I am sure, due to the superior properties of the roller bearing for thrust. Ball bearing for wheel bearing are just so much junk compared to properly installed tapered roller bearings!
I would very much appreciate comments about this as my 81 year old memory is not the greatest!!!
Similiar question@
http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/446682#Post446682
M.L. Anderson
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I spoke to Fred Rawling about this sparkplug wrench. Is this the special sparkplug wrench that came with the car or are you just trying to get one that fits into the hole to remove the sparkplugs?
M.L. Anderson
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Acorn Nuts are listed in the Machinery’s Handbook under Low and High Crown (Blind, Acorn) Nuts. (recommended Practice J483a)
A .5625”-18 is .875” across the flats. A full page is listed with the depths drills and all the information you need except for chrome plate. Don’t chrome plate the threads! Effective depth of full threads is .560”. and 13 columns of other dimensions!
Surely somewhere there are firms who make and or stock these items altho you may have to chrome plate them. One also must remember that Chrome Plated Acorn Nuts are decorative! The may not be High Tensile for head bolts. Are you going to try to put these on the head studs?
M.L. Anderson
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To Tinindian; Just talked to Les Ryan whose phone number is 712-322-4604. He has over 400 gear sets. Some of which may be just what you may need. $400.00 a set.
M.L. Anderson
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Bill -W,
Now that I have straightened myself out using your voluminous @ very informative passages, now for another very real question!
There are a lot of places on the Internet about the sparkplugs used in the Poly engine from 1956 to about 1966. There is as you know a lot of wrong information about sparkplugs on the various places about this item.
Were the Sparkplugs 14mm straight thru from 1956 to the end, approx 1966?
Were the reaches all the same at 3/8” or ¾”?
Were they all gasket seats or were some Tapered seats?
M.L. Anderson
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Go to #444420 to find more problems! http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/444420#Post444420
M.L. Anderson
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It seems to me that all of suggestions listed here have a lot of validity! The only one that they missed that I can see is the fact of what causes corrosion in the cooling system. Iron + oxygen = rust! Rust + time + some other ingredients is what causes the gunk in your radiator! It has probably occurred to you that the reason that newer cars have overflow tanks and pressure caps is to keep oxygen out of the cooling system. This is why the newer cars have semi-sealed cooling system. It can’t be completely sealed because of cost and the difficulty of achieving the completely sealed cooled system.
Also if you build a good system to achieve this you can see the bubbles raise in the bottle if the cylinder block or cylinder head is cracked.
I learned this on an old Buick Straight Eight in 1950.
Also go to; http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/441805#Post441805
http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/372139
http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/389562#Post389562
http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showthreaded/Number/384634
Yours, M.L. Anderson
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Haven't you reversed the two numbers, the 2 and the 0, and it's a 320 cubic inch engine. You should probably put this in the Buick section! M.L. Anderson
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To clear up a lot of confusion about these engines I suggest the people go to the address below to clear the air on these engines! Also it is easy to get confused as several engine have very simliar displacement but different Bores and Strokes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_A_engine
and
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/list.html
Edit; I am now in a very high mode of operation to just clear up the Ply./Dodge Polys only! 08-30-2007
Yours, M.L. Anderson
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jack27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I always used C-4 s in my 16 for 30+ years. If you have a magneto the 0.031" gap will make it hard to start when temp is low. The '16 owners manual says 0.031" gap but other references say 0.016". I changed to 0.016" and car would start anytime. The '16 owners manual states 0.031" but must have reflected going to a distributor ignition (1917) which uses 0.031 gap. </div></div>
I knew there was a good reason for the use of Capacitors/ Distributors but this is the first time anyone expressed it so succinctly. Magnetos certainly have their place but their innate faults certainly put them behind the Delco with its centrifugal advance and later the vacuum advance.
M.L. Anderson
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Go to;
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=C4&x=61&y=15&seenCrossWarning=1
The above gives the address of the distributor of many brands of sparkplugs.
Their callout for the sparkplug of a new replacement Champion sparkplug as a, W 16Y, 7/8” -18 threads per inch, with a reach of 5/8 inch, 15/16” hexagon, Standard Coil Stock # 561 , Industrial sparkplug. This sparkplug does have a nominal 5/8" reach and an extended core nose of about .170".
The reach of a sparkplug is the nominal distance from the gasket seat of the sparkplug without the gasket in place to the end of the sparkplug threads. Notice this removes the sparkplug gasket crushed thickness from the dimension! It also does not include the provision of an extended skirt as is evident on some sparkplugs.
Altho a very belated post it is in hope of a better understanding of sparkplug terminology!
M.L. Anderson
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I am glad you verified what was just a guess to me as just about fifteen minutes ago I posted (guessing)almost the same results as you here state. The problem with my information in an old Motor's Manual stops at 1958 and seems to incorrectly state no carburetor of any type on the engines below, while above statements whether it is a two or a single four barrel on the other engines.
The 1956 was listed as 240 hp, 1957 & 1958 as 290 hp. on the most powerful engines.
M.L. Anderson
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For high performance enthusiasts, Plymouth released a dealer-installed High Performance Package in the spring of 1956. Retailing for $746.90, the kit included dual four-barrels, special air cleaners, an aluminum intake manifold, and high performance camshaft. This kit was available for both the 277ci. Belvedere V-8 and the Fury 303ci. V-8. The kit raised the 277’s hp to 230 while upping the Fury’s 303
to 270hp.
The Red Painted manifold below doesn't appear to be <span style="font-weight: bold">Aluminum</span> ,were there several of these manifolds.
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/smallblock/img/Polydual4bbl.JPG
M. L. Anderson
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To Tinindian:
Quote from McGuire @ Atlas F1;
Maybe after the second or third identical failure I might get out a file and dress that up before installing it. Just a thought.
Guy goes to the doctor and says "it hurts when I do this." Doctor says, "Well, stop doing that."
Would love to see a photo of that ring and pinion, it does sound sort of interesting!
Tinindian, You might like to go to this address for some comments,
http://forums.autosport.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96302
M.L. Anderson
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This is somewhat a proof of a defect induced by the use of sharp point stamps. Most newer stamps are of a type that has rounded letters as opposed to ones that are sharp on the letters. You might have noticed that more modern stamping is the use of electo-acid etch that does not produce high stress concentration at high stress points.
Have you checked and seen if any ring and pinion gear manufacturers make any of these ratios. There are a lot of ring and pinion gears sales on the Internet but I do not know if any make gears that are Spiral Bevel as opposed to Hyperboloid Gears! They are not interchangeable.
It would be interesting to know just when GM stopped manufacturing products which had this type of defect.
Have you considered the reduction of the stress by polishing the stamping? A simple application of Dye Penetrant Inspection Check will reveal any cracks before and after polishing. You should be able to find this in a spray can package at a NAPA store.
http://www.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm
http://www.cangroup.net/inspection/dpi.htm
http://www.ndt-ed.org/EducationResources...ngdetection.htm
http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/crack_inspection.htm
You will likely find that it pays to do this before it breaks again if you have not done so at this time.
Yours M.L. Anderson
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Tinindian
In my experience the only part that is hard to find is a crown and pinion. In 48 years and 383,000 miles that I have driven my car (my Grandfather had it for 29 years and 99,000 miles) the engine has had three valve grinds, one overhaul and I am on my 4th differential. Every one of the pinions dropped a tooth opposite the last digit of the stamped part number. Interesting flaw???.
Very interesting indeed !!!. I wonder if you had of polished the area around the digit if it would have relieved the internal stressed area???.
Have you examined the area and seen that the crack started at the bottom of the number? This should have been the area that had the most stress from heat treatment. Do you have the parts still or have you discarded them?
What ratio do you have as they are according to my finding;
OAK-PON-053V-8B
ADDITION TO REAR AXLE GEAR DATA
REAR AXLE GEAR RATIOS FOR
OAKLAND AND PONTIAC V-8
FROM 1930-1932
51-13.……3.92 TO 1
38-9.……..4.22 TO 1
53-12.……4.42 TO 1
41-9.……..4.55 TO 1
52-11.……4.72 TO 1
43-9.……..4.78 TO 1
46-9.……..5.11 TO 1
52-10.……5.20 TO 1
According to the Manual it appears that all ratios are interchangeable from 6 cylinder cars and axles to the V-8 cars and axles.
M.L. Anderson
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The only 2 stroke engine cars that I ever heard run that were authority sounding were the Elto midgets in the thirties and forties. However running against Offies and the Fords it wasn’t very successful. The ones I saw were at the Philadelphia Yellow Jacket Speedway in the forties.
These guys just had to learn to tune them or they couldn’t even make the B feature.
M.L. Anderson
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Copy of the Shop Manual on the Synchronized Vibration Dampener.
http://forums.autosport.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85570
M.L. Anderson
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If you do not have a manual of the Oakland-Pontiac 1930-1932 please send me your mailing address, below, and etc and I will send you a copy of it on a disc. You may reimburse me for whatever you think it is worth as I have several dozen of them. I did this when I was into the O-P V-8 engine with a great deal of effort several years ago. The disk also includes a lot of other information on the O-Ps of those three years
M.L. Anderson
9111 Brightly St.
Bellflower, CA 90706
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My old 1935-1947 Blue Backed falling apart Motor-Manual states that the distributor is Autolite #IGS-4207-1 Cam Angle 38 degrees, Breaker Point Opening .020”, Condenser Capacity .25-28 Microfarads, Breaker Arm Tension in 17-20 Ounces, Centrifugal Advance 3 degrees Distributor Advance @ 475 RPM, Full Advance 9 degrees @ 1300 Distributor degrees. Vacuum Advance Data Degrees @ Inches of Mercury. Advance Starts 2 degrees @ 7 Inches of Mercury and full Advance @ 9 degrees @ 14 Inches of Mercury.
M.L. Anderson
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`
Acorn Nuts
in Technical
Posted
Low Crown Acorn
Size Course Thread Fine Thread
8/32 $1.01 $1.01
10/24 $1.35 $1.35
1/4 $0.81 $0.81
5/16 $0.92 $0.92
3/8 $1.06 $1.06
7/16 $1.79 $1.79
1/2 $1.90 $1.90
Three types seen to be listed,above is the low crown.
M.L. Anderson