nasmith

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About nasmith

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  1. My '40 sedan has been listed in the classified section of the website for several months. I am anxious to make room for another project and am seeking offers for my car. The car is listed in the ad for $22,500, but I have reduced the asking price to $18,500 and will consider any reasonable offer. Norm
  2. Give Merv Adkins a call. He is listed in the sources section of the LZOC web site. He has a yard in Pomona and has virtually everything for Lincoln V-12's. Norm
  3. Brent, that headlight ring looks like a '41. The '40 has the parking light located in the area painted red where the ribs are on yours. If you need a pic, let me know. Norm
  4. Hi Paul. I put 00 gauge in my 40LZ and they helped significantly when I had the same problem. They are available from Narragansett (in the sources listing). I finally had to replace what I thought was a good starter before the problem was completely solved. Norm Smith
  5. When I hooked up my '40, I had a repro ground cable and discovered the problem with the terminal location. I asked the nice people at Narragansett (see sources link) to make a 4 inch longer ground cable which looks fine and works very well. Norm
  6. I recently put a new low/reverse slider in my '40 LZ transmission. I chose to back out the rear end and lift the transmission up through the floor. It was fairly easy, but time consuming. It was made easier by using my engine hoist to lift the transmission out and back in. My only expense was for the gear, gaskets and new lubricant - less than $200. Norm
  7. Thanks for letting us know. Rolf was a great help to me in getting my 40 LZ on the road again. He will be missed. Norm Smith
  8. My '40 LZ has a trunk light and it is wired from the dome light - when the dome light is turned on, the trunk light comes on. The wire is in the right side of the body above the doors and the trunk light is near the right side trunk hinge. Norm
  9. Dee & Gene, thanks for your suggestions. Having the transmission in neutral is a good idea under any circumstances, however, I had the differential on a wheeled "trolley" jack, so could push it and out fairly easily without the wheels turning. As you noted Gene, a second person would have really helped, but no one was available this morning. So, I managed to put it together with the differential on the jack, pushed forward to contact the u-joint spline. I then attached a tiedown strap with a comealong ratchet from the transmission to the jack and with a little pressure and a minor amount of wiggling, the driveshaft slipped into place. It's basically back together with only small details left. Thanks gentlemen for your ideas and encouragement, Norm
  10. Last September I asked for, and got, advice on removing the transmission for repair. Thanks to those who answered with suggestions - all were appreciated. I have finally undertaken the job and have several comments to add to the suggestions given. 1. It was not possible to lower the rear end far enough to clear the crossmember by removing the four spring bolts and then to move it back due to the restriction of the tunnel in the x member of the frame. It was necessary to spread the spring and undo the shackles to get enough clearance. 2. The rear end only needs to go back about 6 inches to gain enough room to clear the u-joint and back the transmission out. 3. After undoing all the shift linkages and other appurtenances, I realized the rear transmission mount needed to be completely removed to get enough wiggle room for ease of transmission removal. 4. Rather than break my back lifting the transmission, I was able to use my engine hoist to reach in and do the heavy lifting. With the transmission on the bench, I discovered the low/reverse slider had one tooth cleanly missing and I found the tooth, intact, on the bottom of the case. There was no other damage, or even wear, apparent. I replaced the gear, seals and cluster washers and reassembled. Regarding the rear transmission mount and the frame isolater, my rear mount was installed recently and inspection of the isolater shows it to be in good condition. The transmission is back in and now I am attempting to reinstall the rearend. I have aligned the u-joint with the drive shaft and have pushed the rearend forward but cannot seem to get the drive shaft to slip into the u-joint spline. Is there any magic to this, or do I just keep re-aligning and trying over and over again until I finally hit the mark? Thanks for your help, Norm
  11. When I had my '40 LZ painted I loosened the fenders and removed the remains of the old welting and cleaned up the gap leaving the fenders loose for the painter. I got new welting from Narragannsett Reproductions and had the painter paint it separately with a flex agent added to the paint. So far (3 years) it seems fine. Norm
  12. Jim Z, here's a few pics of the speedo converter, vacuum valve and vacuum plumbing. Excuse the "not pristine" condition of the underside, the car is an original, unmolested survivor and the Columbia parts are as they came from the factory. The vacuum lines are inside the left frame rail to the center crosspiece where they move to the center and are mounted on the torque tube.
  13. Jim, I will try to get some pictures to you today or tomorrow. Norm
  14. Hi Jim, I have a '40 4 door sedan with factory installed Columbia. What pictures, other than the speedo converter, would you like? Norm
  15. You can see the valves through the spark plug hole. If you are sure of the cylinder, take a look and rotate the crankshaft so the intake valve is fully open and give it a squirt of MMO or Kroil. Let it soak for a while and then crank the engine over with the starter for a few seconds, put the plug in and warm it up and recheck the compression. If that doesn't improve it then follow Tom's suggestion. Norm