gundog99

I am also concerned about leaks around the screw holes and a possible corrosion issue mixing Brass with steel. I can see how you made the intersection but how was the outer section made? A flat plate indeed ! it never ceases to amaze me how many people fail to consider why a part was designed a certain way in the first place.

I was thinking of making the flat intersection in brass or copper and separating it from the original steel outer section with a thin gasket. Is this a workable option?

Have you thought of publishing "Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster" as a book? Many of restoration subjects and techniques discussed in these posts are applicable to all vintage and classic cars.

3 months is nothing ,I have been waiting over 3 years to have my 1853 Enfield rifle musket repaired

As I am still having overheating problems ,I thought it might be an idea to remove the water pump to check the impeller, thankfully it is in good shape.I looked into the waterport in the block casting. In the past the water jacket was refitted and sealed with a generous amount of silicone, this had squeezed out into the water port reducing the hole by a good 30%; it remains to be seen if removing this partial blockage improves the water flow. s

Fantastic. If you have the time would you make me a crank hole cover?

I fitted a Edelbrock 8606 High Performance Thermostat (63mm) - 160° in my 2249, after I drilled a 1/8 hole

I understand ,thank you.

I can see one of the 6mm plates. Where is the other one fitted and are you able to post a photograph of the manifold after it was cut but before the plate was welded on ?

This looks like finally solving the problem of fuel evaporation. I wonder if the 2249 Senior manifold could be modified the same way?

This will make engineers shudder. Years ago,I dipped my 1927 Senior impeller in wax, to allow for shrinkage and had it cast in bronze, then turned down to fit. With 3D printing it should be relatively easy to make a useable Pattern for casting.

Did you fit a new the earth strap from the battery ? It needs to be heavy duty for 6v , an ordinary 12v strap will cause problems.

I can see two items that are missing from my car, the "Senior" on the radiator and the crank hole cover. Are they originals or reproductions?

The problem I am having with my sender is the resistor wire (photo 3) . The 2249 Senior has both an electric sender and mechanical Dial. Are you replacing the original electric parts with a modern alternative?

You have done a wonderful job restoring Your Senior, it looks very smart.

The fuel grade was a very difficult job, not helped by the original and new casting not quit matching, I had someone restore the sender and all was fine for about six mouths but it has stopped working.

Have you thought about making a copy of the original Victory Six exhaust box ? I had one made a few years age for my 2249 Senior, but decided to delay fitting it until the current box failed.

This reminds me of my "Grandfather's Axe"; my father changed the head and I changed the handle !

I worked on my Watsons years ago managing to buy some old/ new stock strapping at the time. Is the strapping now available again and have you discovered anything about the Watson inserts ?

Ron ,Do you have a Watson spanner? I can email an outline drawing if you need to make one.

The length from the top of the opening to the axle stud is 81/2"with a further 5" for the locking clamp ; this is not critical, the distance between the coupler plate and eyelet is.

Whow, that is bad! I restored a vacuum tank with a Por 15 tank paint, in the UK Frost are the main supplers https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-repair-my-fuel-tank

I have a new boxed Coote & Jorgensen 50 -12 CWP, X 301- X 302. Is this the normal ratio for a Senior?

Is it only early gearboxes these gears can be fitted to?