Jump to content

49 Packard

Members
  • Posts

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 49 Packard

  1. 49 Packard

    Picture test

    That's <span style="font-style: italic">my</span> guess too, but I want to be sure. The fixed tab is gone from the door and I need to put a new one on, so before I do that I want to make <span style="font-style: italic">absolutely sure</span> I have the trim oriented properly.
  2. 49 Packard

    Picture test

    My early '49 looks almost identical to your '48. I wonder if you could help me with a question? I'm putting my trim back on after a repaint, and I'm not 100% sure which way to put the lower body trim on. Specifically, the piece on the rear door. One end of the trim is flat, the other end is beveled. Can you tell me which way the beveled end goes - toward the front or to the back? Thanks very much for your help. Jay
  3. FWIW, I bought one from Joel Ray. His price was just $8. That's more affordable than $20. I had been put off a little by that high $20 price. Sure, I know that parts for these old cars have some widely fluctuating price differences, but I'm still careful when I buy.
  4. The Earl Scheib people here in Indianapolis took my car back in to repaint some parts that were not right, and really did a great job. They wound up repainting the whole car (at no extra charge). I'm pleased to share the results for any that are interested: http://webhubcentral.com/packard/scheibpaint.htm#update Jay Faubion
  5. Thank you, Thank you! I located the hole (by feeling), fed a good piece of #14 wire up through it, and pop! Up it came out of the steering shaft top <span style="font-style: italic">the first time!</span>. I'm NEVER that lucky. Problem solved. Thanks again!
  6. Well, I have the horn wire, but the individual who had the car before me CUT IT IN HALF so he could do some work, pulling it out of the bottom in the process. OK, that helps a lot. Perhaps I can feed it up thru the bottom of the steering box into the shaft and grab it somehow. Maybe some piano wire... Jay
  7. At the bottom of the shaft? That's what I don't understand, since the shaft itself goes into the steering box. How does that work? Does it pass through the steering box and come out the other side?
  8. When I got my '49 the horn wire had been pulled from both ends of the steering shaft. I do not know where the wire is intended to come out of the lower end of the shaft. That is, the shaft goes directly into the steering box. Where does the horn wire come out of there? Thanks in advance for any help. I'm sure this is a simple one for anyone that has seen one put together. I have not <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  9. Hey there "other" 49Packard! Yes, that was the first thing I tried, and had high hopes. I'd done some searches before starting the work and had seen the posts about that lubrication point. I was really pretty surprised when it turned out to be what it was; that is, binding inside that bushing. The shaft was really torn up.
  10. OK, I won't get all excited about the electromatic yet. It's just that up to this time the thing has just been <span style="font-style: italic">in the way</span>, and not too helpful to have around. Maybe someday I'll fix it up. In the meantime I'll be patient.
  11. For anyone interested, I just finished posting some pictures of my experience fixing a stiff shifting problem. This <span style="font-style: italic">probably </span> is not the kind of problem most people would run into, but I did nonetheless. I'm just am amateur at this kind of work - I write software for a living - so if you choose to read how I made the repair please be forgiving <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Click here: Stiff Shifting Repair
  12. Randy, I've seen the same kind of paint on bumpers on a couple of good-looking cars on eBay. I'll consider that. I think the only reason I wouldn't do it would be the beatup, rusty condition of my bumpers. Perhaps I'll run a piece of colored duct tape around the bumper just to see how it would look (no, I won't leave it there!). If it looks right I could paint it with the paint they gave me at Scheib. Thanks for the idea.
  13. I'm pleased with the paint job. There was some fisheye on the front left fender, but they're going to repaint that for me. Actually, they told me that if there was anything I didn't like they'd repaint that area no charge. He gave me half a gallon of paint to do my own door jambs (and a couple cans of hardener) too. Not a bad $400 paint job! I did have some inline pictures here, but have revised it to give you a link to a few more.
  14. I forgot to mention, although they will paint door jambs for $50 apiece, the manager there also offered (and I accepted!) to give me enough paint when the job was complete so that I could do them myself at home. And yes... I'll post some pictures of the job, both before and after I put all the trim back on.
  15. I want to let everyone know that I'm in the midst of a great experience getting my '49 painted at Earl Scheib. I (like many of you, probably) grew up hearing Earl's radio advertising "I'll paint any car for $19.95". With diamond-gloss paint, no less!. As you know, their basic paint service (now around $260 for single-shot urethane paint) gets you sanded, masked and painted. Door jambs, etc, are all extra. They'll do the body work too, if you want them to. In short, you get what you pay for. I had rust spots, dings, a crease in a door, a football-sized dent in the left rear taillight area, and a bunch of cracking and checking in the old original lacquer paint. Lots of stuff to deal with, and all over the car. I'm a novice at body work, but I launched into it with the kids helping and four or five days later it didn't look too bad. Well, let me qualify that - it DID look bad, but that's because it had body work all over it. But it was much smoo-oother!. I decided to opt for Scheib's "Pro-3" job for $400. Three coats of paint and some other services. (http://www.earlscheib.com/pro3.php if you're interested). They have a "deep metallic blue" that is a lot like the original Packard color. Driving the car on Thursday the fifteen miles to the Scheib shop (I had the front bumper and all the trim removed) I was feeling pretty good! That is, until the vapor-lock hit. I know someone will ask, so "Yes" I have the heat shield installed over the fuel pump. As it turned out, I wound up on the side of the road FOUR times. Each time there I was, pulling the fuel line off the carb, sucking (yuck) gasoline up the line to fill it, plugging it back on real quick. Eventually I got to the shop, driving it into the lot under its own power. "Sure," the manager said, "I'll open the door and you can just bring it in." Great idea, but it wouldn't start! So, the four or five guys standing around helped me push it in. Boy, was I embarassed. But the manager there was very helpful and kind, and said it was no problem for him at all. I decided to get an electric fuel pump and avoid this hassle, so the next day (after scouting around for a while - they're hard to find) I found an Airtex E8011 6 volt pump at a Carquest on the east side of Indianapolis, about 30 miles from my house. I picked that up for $57, noting when I saw it that it is the same as Max Merrit's "kit", except that he includes a toggle switch. I called the Scheib guy the next day, Saturday morning, and asked him if - when he gets done painting it - if we could just push it out the door into the parking lot at that time so I could install the electric pump. This is the amazing part to me. Instead he says, "That's too much trouble for you. Do you have the pump now? Just come over and I'll make space for you in the shop here and you can do the work inside, out of the sun. If you need anything I can help you." I asked him, "Don't you close at noon on Saturday?" But he responded that sometimes they were there till 1PM. So off I went, and when I arrived there was the car, off it a corner with a big clear space all around it. The manager gave me a work light (on a stand), and a trouble light to throw under the car. He let me borrow a jackstand and a floor jack, too. I had everything else with me. To make this story short, I finally got done, but it was close to 2:00. I had everything put away, the car was running great. I went up front and saw that the manager was the only one left. It turns out he had been waiting for me, but never once applied any pressure on me to "hurry" the job. I questioned him about that and his response was "When your car is painted I just want you to have a really good experience. I didn't want you to have to take it outside and work on it - just to be able to drive it home and be happy with the new paint job". I am not accustomed to being treated this well at retail shops. These people have been considerate, thoughtful and very professional. I stopped by last night to see the paint job. It was still wet, but it looked g-o-o-d. Tonight I pick it up and drive it home. For any of the rest of you that may need to get painting done "on a budget" I don't think I could recommend a better option.
  16. I pulled my pinion seal last night to replace it, and while installing the new one promptly reduced it to scrap. Seriously, I cleaned out the channel where it goes, soaked the seal in oil for 30 minutes before starting, but simply couldn't get it in there straight. Does anyone have experience doing this, and a technique to share?
  17. Use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid as long as you're re-doing the whole thing.
  18. I'm about ready to reinstall it. I spent a good amount of time cleaning it up on Saturday, and now I am sanding it down on the outside to get the remaining rust, and then I'll be hitting it with some Rustoleum. Probably tonight after work. I'll be real careful with those bolt lengths. That's about the last thing I want to mess up!
  19. I have a similar problem. I can't get my spare tire off. My wife keeps bugging me about it but it won't move.
  20. I finally got the lower bell housing off, and was able to successfully pull my oil pan for cleaning. Thanks to all for the advice and help on this. I'd never had a oil pan off before, and I was amazed at the amount of gunk and sludge trapped in there. There was a half inch or better of very firm crud on the bottom, just looking for opportunities to recirculate itself through my bearings. I didn't see any metal bits (happily), but it sure was thick. It's all cleaned out now, and I have the oil pickup soaking in gasoline. Some day I'm gonna buy myself a parts washer. Jay
  21. Thanks, Albert. I am glad to know those are dowels. I just came in from trying to get that thing loose again. Used lots of heat, lots of tapping. Guess it's just going to take a while. I'll go back at it tomorrow when the sun comes back up <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
  22. I'm including a picture of my bell housing. I am suspicious of something I'm seeing. This shows empty bolt holes where two of the ten bolts were removed. You can also see, and the other side of the lower bell housing is identical, where there appears to be a threaded stud in place. I'm wondering if this is holding the lower bell housing in place? Perhaps there were twelve bolts, and someone broke two off in the past sometime? If these need to be removed I'm going to have to drill them out and use a screw extractor I suppose. Wow, I never realized what I was getting into when I decided to clean out my oil pan. I have added a second picture of the (matching) left hand side, showing an identical arrangement. All opinions are welcome!
  23. Thanks, Kev. Yes, mine has ten bolts, but covers the rear of the oil pan as you describe. I pulled the pittman arm so my centerlink is dropped way down. I think that'll give me sufficient clearance if I can ever get the bell housing (lower, like you said) off! On the backside, you say? I couldn't see anything but I'm going out there right now and double check.
  24. I'm trying to remove my bell housing in order to pull my oil pan. This is the first time I've done this, and I fear I may be doing something wrong. I removed the ten bolts holding the bell housing, but the thing will not budge. I've sprayed the seam with penetrating oil and knocked all around it with a piece of wood and a ball peen hammer. No luck. Is there more to this (as in, "I'm really missing the boat"), or do I just need to keep coaxing it? Thanks in advance for any help. Jay
  25. So, that thing in the way is a bell housing? OK, OK, I probably would have figured it out! I'm in the middle of pulling my oil pan to clean it out too, and as soon as I saw that piece (the bell housing) was in the way I came in the house to check this forum out. This is truly a valuable resource. Jay
×
×
  • Create New...