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49 Packard

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Everything posted by 49 Packard

  1. "Rusty", Thanks for the helpful reply. Sounds like you've done this more than once! I wondered about using some sort of steam. I think I remember seeing a picture somewhere of a car filled with steam at the factory. Jay
  2. Hello All, I'm at the point where I'd like to attempt the replacement of the headliner in my 1949 22nd Series Deluxe Eight. I see that Kanter, Fryer's and others sell pre-cut and pre-sewn material for this, and that there are replacement tack strips available. I also have read the section on this in the Packard service manual. My question is for any of you that may have done this job yourself: Do you have any suggestions or ideas to offer to help me get started properly? Maybe avoid some pitfalls? Thanks in advance, Jay
  3. I'm having a similar problem with my '49 Packard. Have you come up with a good resolution?
  4. Well, I messed up anyway. Turns out my system is Auto Lite. I don't imagine the voltage regulator differs any though.
  5. I'm trying to locate a voltage regulator for my 1949 22nd series 288. The guys at Advance Auto tell me that a G.P. Sorensen VR-206 will work. The original Packard Delco version was # 1118278, which showed up as a cross ref in their books. Does anyone have any knowledge of confirmed cross reference info on these?
  6. I really appreciate all the advice. I didn't understand how all this worked. If I can get just a few more warm weekends out of this year maybe I can work it out before winter hits. For those of you with a heated garage for your Packard... well, I envy you!
  7. Excellent idea on the fuses. I'll do that. That's a perfect troubleshooting technique.
  8. My '49 22nd sedan has a problem with intermittent headlights. So far I have only been able to reproduce this while driving in the dark. Not the best of times! The headlights will be working fine, then go off altogether. The instrument lights will go off at the same time. Fifteen or twenty seconds later they will come on for a short time and then off they go again! I have been studying the wiring diagram and see that along with the headlight switch there is a circuit breaker. I figure that’s there primarily for the cigar lighter, but maybe not? I’ve jiggled every wire I can touch with a wooden paint stick both under the hood and under the dash. I can’t get anything to affect the working of the headlights, so it does not appear (as I thought it would) to be a loose connection. In anyone's experience has this switch, or just the breaker on it, been the culprit in intermittent headlight problems?
  9. I was trying to avoid the THIRD word: $475.00 You do your best...
  10. I'd love to have a pair of tail light housings for a '48-'49 22nd series. My lamp sockets are rusted beyond repair. I don't need the lenses or bezels. Just the housing with the lamp sockets in it.
  11. That will be interesting. Mine did not fail for an entire year, but when it failed, it failed big time. FWIW, I <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">know</span></span> my tank interior was dry.
  12. It may be interesting to some to see the response I got from the vendor that sold me the "Fuel Tank Restoration Kit" that has so thoroughly messed up my fuel tank. Suffice to say I followed the directions for using it implicitly, and if anything I *overdid* every step just to be sure I got it right. The helpful answer from the vendor is: "I reviewed your order and situation with The tech department @ POR (the manufacturers of the fuel tank repair kit). They advised the only time their is a an issue of the sealer not bonding is when the tank is not throughly cleaned/prepared or it is not throughly dried befor the sealer is applied. Please call the POR Tech line directly at 1 800 457 6715 they will answer any question in detail"
  13. As far as "draining, cleaning and relining the tank" goes, you might want to look at my post about my own fuel tank restoration. I used the POR-15 tank repair kit, and in a short period of time (less than a year) the lining had peeled loose inside the tank and bits of it had clogged the pickup tube. This allowed my car to run for a while, since some small amount of fuel was allowed to pass through the *very* restricted line, but after a while I would just "run out of gas". I suspected the tank least of all when troubleshooting because I knew I had followed the directions so carefully on using the "repair kit". I wasted a bunch of money and a lot of time with that one. Eventually I set a 5-gallon gas can in the trunk and ran a copper line into it for fuel. Problem solved. That is, "Symptom solved." Now I have to deal with a really messed-up tank.
  14. I am really disappointed in the results of my use of the Kanter "Fuel Tank Restoration Kit". I'm not blaming Kanter, because I'm sure (well, not sure) the product has worked well for others, but my experience has been very poor. About this time last year I used the kit, which consists of some POR-15 products (and includes Metal-Ready, Marine-Clean, Fuel Tank Sealer and Fuel Stabilizer). I followed the directions carefully, really carefully. When I was done I was pretty proud of the job I'd done. I guess that should have been my first warning :-) All this season I've been having fuel problems. I suspected the tank least, because of the job I had done on it last year. However, today I finally pulled the tank off the car and looked inside. There are flakes and 3" scabs of the sealer everywhere inside. It is a total mess. The fuel outlet is plugged with silver sealer. I "Did it Once, Did It Right" and have a mess on my hands to show for it. Thinking that my use of this kit had been a success I had recommended its use to others, on this forum and on another. STOP. HALT. Forget the recommendation. I'm afraid I'm now into a genuinely expensive fuel tank restoration with no other options.
  15. I'd like to remove the electromatic clutch from my '49 and replace it with standard throttle linkage. Unfortunately, the throttle linkage is part of the electromatic in this models. Anyone having a set (there's not much to it), please contact me. It's for a 2262 with a 288 Thanks.
  16. Thank you very much to all who responded to my question. I sure appreciate the history from Peter about how we got where we are (or rather, "were"). I won't get to drive again until Saturday. I'll see what I can figure out, but it's good to know that 180 degrees (or a little more) is acceptable.
  17. OK, I'm <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> trying to convince myself that my 288 is not overheating, but I'm wondering just what "hot" really means in "relative Packard terms". Sitting at idle, my temp gauge rises to about 1/16" shy of the "H" dot. A thermometer in the radiator tells me that is 180 degrees. Does that seem accurate? Secondly, at what temperature should I consider my car as truly <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">running too hot</span></span>?
  18. Dave Kenney has sent me this picture, which was just what I needed. Thanks, Dave!
  19. Thanks, PackardV8 - However, the earlier Packards used a different sort of spring. These are actually a pair of wire springs that mount in some way on both sides of the fuel door.
  20. I just "found" the springs for my fuel door. They were at the bottom of a box of stuff that came with the car when I bought it. However, I don't see how they mount in there. Yes, I'm just talking about the 4X4 fuel tank door on the left rear fender :-) Would anyone be willing to take a picture of the spring mounting so I can see how they are supposed to work? I don't want to break or lose one of these experimenting around. Thanks very much if you can help.
  21. 49 Packard


    I have discovered that although I have two fuel filters, one in front of the electric fuel pump and one at the carburetor inlet, neither is sufficiently "fine" to catch all the sediment. It turns out that my stalling issue resulted from an approximately 1/16"floor of fine, soot-like sediment in my float bowl. This clogged the jets. I'm trying to do some research on just what kind of filter would catch stuff like this... 10-micron? I'd love some advice on this one, myself! I did a POR-15 treatment on my fuel tank last year, but it looks like I may have not done as good of a job as I would have liked to believe. :-\
  22. Welcome to '49 Packards! I've got one myself, going on two years now. I started this as a complete and total novice. Now I'm only 90% novice. If you're nearby we could get together and I could show you what I've had to do with mine. You can click below for my website.
  23. I'm not disputing anything I've read here, but just want to say that in my '49 I'm running P235-75R-15 tubeless radials. I had looked for 215's, but found a good deal on a used set of 235's. They are fine (even as wide as they are), and there are no contact problems with the fenders, etc. There is some issue mounting them on the rear while inflated, but if deflated first they mount OK, and then the clearances are not a problem.
  24. I had quite a bit of trouble with shifting in my '49, but resolved it all with two different operations. The first was replacement of the shifting rod itself. This caused the shifting to be very stiff. You can see on my web page, below, what I did there. The second thing, which I think may help you, was in eliminating all possible "slop" from the linkage arms off the shifting rod. Over time many of the original bellville washers had disappeared and regular washers had been substituted. When I put it all back together, properly lubricated and free, and replaced the flat washers with the original bellville style the shifting became snappy and positive. I think the way it works now is probably about the way it worked when new. I was very surprised at how much difference that all made.
  25. 49 Packard

    Picture test

    No problem - Thanks for the efforts. I think I'll put the bevel forward in any case. It does make pretty good sense.
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