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49 Packard

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Everything posted by 49 Packard

  1. I'm getting a replacement rear end for my '49 next week. I've never done anything like this before, and I'm just curious as to the steps in removing and replacing a rear axle as you're doing.
  2. Does anyone know of a source (besides New Jersey) of window channels for a 2262 Deluxe Eight??
  3. OK, So I'm a Packard driver! But a guy just offered me a four-door all original 1960 Corvair. The car is complete, with lots of spare parts from another parts car. Almost no rust, engine is free. The car did not run when I looked at it this evening, but the owner says he had it running around in his yard last year. Power Glide transmission. If I can get it running enough to move it back and forth in the driveway what do you experts think it should be worth? The guy only wants $350, and that includes the Corvair shop manual and a back seat full of spare parts. Thanks for any and all help!
  4. Overdrive relay and solenoid.
  5. I need an R11 overdrive governor for a '49 Packard, 22nd series. Thanks in advance, Jay Faubion http://webhubcentral.com/packard
  6. I need an R11 overdrive governor for a '49 22nd series. Thanks in advance, Jay Faubion http://webhubcentral.com/packard
  7. OK, so we don't really worry about how many miles per gallon we get in these old cars. I know that. But for some reason people always ask the question anyway. At $4+ per gallon even my wife wants to know what I'm getting. I checked mine this week ('49 22nd Series 288CID) and I got 14 MPG in mixed freeway/city/county road driving. Does anyone else ever check their gas mileage? (Added later) I should add that my overdrive is NOT working, and I could probably do better on the MPGs if it was.
  8. I got my headliner from UPS last night and I'm looking forward to installing it. This will be a fun first-time experience. When I removed the old headliner last fall I found that some insulation padding had come loose and fallen onto the old headliner. It's weight on the old fabric was a big part of the problem. See picture below. So the question is (especially for those of you that have done work like this), is would you try and duplicate the insulation, or just clean-up/paint-up the steel roof interior and install the new headliner without new pad? If you were going to put in new pad, what would you use? Thanks for all advice offered. Jay
  9. No, that's a 14mm and the original is a 10mm. The 23rd series (1950) evidently had two different types at different times.
  10. Can anyone recommend a suitable cross for my Autolite P-4 plugs? I don't seem to be having much luck. Whether Autolite or not, these would be the plugs used in a 22nd series 288. Thanks very much.
  11. OK, I got the engine raised up a little bit. For those of you (like Dr. Dirt) who have written and want to watch the progress you can see how it was done at This Spot. I'm not intending to post something here every time I do something; I figure if you're watching you will visit the website on your own. This will be the only time I'll make any progress notifications, so as not to flood the forum with unnecessary posts from a true novice. Jay
  12. Great advice. You all are really helpful. I'll get back on it tonight after work.
  13. I'm pretty sure it's ok, but I just want to hear that from some of you experienced people: I was removing the nuts from two of the head bolts (studs) tonight so I could fit a strap on the head to lift it by. I'm lifting the entire engine a few inches so I can remove the oil pan in order to replace my rear seal. I realized after pulling the rachet free that one of the studs had turned completely out, and that the nut was still in place on the stud (making it like a hex head bolt). On the other one the nut only came off. Of course, a ton of antifreeze came out of that bolt hole where the stud was removed. Is this a problem at all? Seems like when I put it back together it ought to work out the same, but I'm a concerned enough to ask the experts. Pictures at RearMainSeal
  14. Before I did anything else to try and <span style="font-style: italic">fix</span> it, I'd use a second gauge and double check that the oil pressure is really that high.
  15. For the record, I have <span style="font-style: italic">never</span> had a problem with any of Peter's posts, but on the contrary have ALWAYS benefited from his experience and straightforwardness. His posts have always been helpful, knowledgeable and welcome to me. I am at a total loss to understand why his postings are unwelcome.
  16. Yes, I have planned to replace bearings, as required, without removing the crankshaft. I need to replace the rear seal and wanted to take advantage of having the pan off and having the connecting rods accessible. Is this really the wrong thing to do? There's no way in the world I could start down the road of rebuilding the engine.
  17. Yes, I have planned to replace bearings, as required, without removing the crankshaft. I need to replace the rear seal and wanted to take advantage of having the pan off and having the connecting rods accessible. Is this really the wrong thing to do? There's no way in the world I could start down the road of rebuilding the engine.
  18. Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions on this thread. What a big help. Last question... After I Plastigage my rod bearings what clearance am I shooting for? The factory manual says "If the clearances are less than .0005 inch or more than .0025 inch, select a new bearing shell to provide the desired clearance." So do I buy a bearing that will bring it as close to .0005 as possible, or what?
  19. OK, I bought a Sneaky Pete. I see how its used. Pretty good idea! I'd like to raise the engine a little bit to make removing the oil pan easier. I had the oil pan off once before without doing that and it was a real bear. Is there a save place under the engine to use a jack? Or do I need to use some sort of hoist the raise the engine a few inches?
  20. With the prospect of the weather starting to warm I'm getting excited about getting to the rear main seal on my 288. I was losing about a quart of oil in sixty miles of driving when I put the car away for winter. <span style="font-weight: bold">Question #1</span> - is there a better seal available than the original wick seal? If not, I'll just do that. I've never done anything like this before and it ought to be quite an adventure. I welcome any advice from any that have done this! It has been recommended to me that I take the opportunity to plasti-gauge my rod bearings while I have the pan off. I've read enough to understand how plasti-gauge works, but am not quite sure to do with the results... <span style="font-weight: bold">Question #2</span> - Based on what the plasti-gauge reveals, what do I do? I see that rod bearings are available in 001, 002, 010 and greater sizes from Kanter. <span style="font-weight: bold">Question #3</span> - Do I need to plasti-gauge each rod bearing, or just one? I think that's enough questions! I welcome advice from this group, knowing that some of you have done this kind of work many times. This will be my first time and I don't want to get it wrong. Thanks so much,
  21. Well! All these posts make up some pretty interesting reading! I have a "volume classic" '49 22nd series Deluxe Eight. I don't care if its ever worth a bunch of money or not. I like it for what are perhaps some pretty odd reasons: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]Its sixty years old and I think that's pretty cool in itself. BTW I'm 62 and I have an eleven year old daughter. That's cool too![*]Its a simple car, simple enough for me to understand it (mostly).[*]When I drive it and work on it I feel like I'm preserving a true piece of history, and I think of all the people and families that may have enjoyed it all these years. All the stories it could tell.[*]I know I'm probably the last owner it will ever have before it turns to junk.[*]I feel a great sense of pride when I drive it, knowing it would not be running at all if I hadn't been doing what I've done.[*]I like knowing I've been doing it on a budget and haven't gone crazy impoverishing my family pursuing a simple hobby. I've been saving money all winter just to buy a headliner, and its worth it to me to do that.[*]It's just fun. So perhaps there <span style="font-style: italic">are</span> still a bunch of us out here that just work on and play with these old cars because it's fun to do so. I have NEVER thought of this old Packard as an investment, except in myself. Jay (Incidentally, my 2003 Kia Spectra will probably never feel the same to me as this '49 does!)
  22. Rusty, In removing the old headliner I "discovered" that there was a sheet of fiberboard, probably intended for sound or thermal insulation, above the bows and against the roof metal. This fiberboard was thoroughly deteriorated and had come loose at every spot. It was only in place because the bows held it there, but it had drooped everywhere. I assume most cars had something like this, but this is the first headliner I've had off and it was new to me. The roof interior has a bunch of rust discoloration (see the picture). I'm concerned that should I try and deal with all that surface rust I would surely get spray, drips or rust powder stains somewhere in the car interior. My question is, would you worry about treating it or just install the new headliner as-is? I'm never sure if I'm being lazy or smart. If you have a suggestion for doing something with the rust I'd love to hear it. If it were anywhere but inside the car I'd be spraying it down with RustOleum. Jay
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