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Opps, the hole in the bearing isn't the oil feed hole for the top bearing, somebody told me such but now that I've looked at the block [had to flip it around] it ian't. It appears that this drain hole is there only to relieve the oil slinger duty to stop oil leakage. Still, it would seem the rear thrust gets no oil pressure. That thrust surface being damaged, it brings question to the drain hole. Only other clue to all this is that the front u-joint to the transmission bearing "bolt" was loose and damaged the joint/bearing mating surface. Can the vibration transfer thru the gear box and clutch, do damage the thrust of the crank? And I thought Audi had strange mechanical oddities. Too bad Henery isn't around to answer my questions.

One drains the slinger thur a tube and check ball. The other is right next to it and uses the oil feed hole for the upper shell. Doesn't the extra hole allowing pressure to drain off to the pan stop any oil pressure getting to the rear thrust surface? My crank needs rewelding and machining at that thrust surface, I can't see why it's this way leaving that area with no oil pressure. Also doesn't this hole lower the over all pressure for the engine? I think it should not be there. Anyone have info on this?

On cyl # 11 there is coolant seeping out and when ck'ing the compression it was "O". I added a bit of marvel mystry oil into it and the compression went back to normal. There is oil seeping from the other cyl head at cyl # 12. Also it does need the distributer points redone, but haven't done so yet. Other than that it does run fairly well with little oil consumtion. The lifters do clatter some, but with the end play that large the oil pressure has got to be lower than normal. I've got the transmission out now and the front u joint bolt was loose and its flange is chewed up some. The trans. mainshaft bearing is noisey, going to replace them. Is it possible to dress out the chewed u joint flange? The joint itself is a bit loose play wise but not excessive. So I'm thinking new u joint, dress the flange flat, new main shaft bearings and seals , both cyl head gaskets,and the crank bearings. Seems like there's no end to this cars troubles. Am I on the correct path?

Is 50 thousands of an inch too much? Factory spexs. are .002 to .006 of an inch. IS this motor plane old SHOT ?

Well, I thought the flywheel was loose, but it's not. The clutch is new but only markings at " T - A type 10 " and the pressure plate has no balance cuts anywhere. But! The big $29 dollar question is the an inhearent problem with a crankshaft end play of .050 in. New specs. are .002 to .006 in, so yes thats 50 thousands of an inch. Or over 8 times as much as new specs. Sometimes an engine can do ok maybe like this but I'm tired of searching for this vibration. With two small cyl head leaks[ oil and coolant] and that much end play, IS this motor shot?

Peecher, thank's for the reply. It is possible the pilot bearing was left out or is bad as the clutch does have chudder most of the time even thou it's livable. I think the clutch was done 2 or 3 years ago in Maine, and anything is possible from what I've seen so far. Might also explain the dry noisy mainshaft bearing sound coming from the gear box. To get there does the engine typicaly come out or can I just remove the transmission? How about both engine and trans. together?

This 1941 Lincoln Conti coupe has a vibration when the engine is at about 2800 rpm. At road speed it feels almost like a rear tire out of balabce but it's also at a stop reved up. The transmission main shaft bearing is bad and noisy. Seems like maybe the vibration could come from there but it is the same with it in gear at a stop clutch pedal down. [no trans. spinning]. The engine firing order is correct[cked twice] and the compression is even. Is there a possibilty of a clutch / flywheel balance situation when someone did a clutch job to it? I have also replaced the rear exhaust pipe with a 2 inch pipe as the old one was 1 and 3/4 inch and performance improved greatly, but the thing sounds like a Mack truck at speed and with the vibration there little left to the immaginaion. Planning on replacing the mufflers next, but the vibration is almost like the crankshaft is bent. Has anyone experinced this kind of problem?

Strange as it may be, there were eight broken plugs. Five were the side insulation and three center insulation chipped off. I have yet to kit the carb. and there is some question as to the point syncro. and then the oil fouling. Well, I guess it'll keep me nusy for the next several months. The owner is optomistic as to driving the thing but it'll come around. The car came from Maine, so the rust is a major ordeal. Rust converter= the best one?? anyone.

Thanks for the reply. My problem with Autolite is that eight of twelve of them after install and removal had cracks along the insulation. I no dought was a little use to the strenth of Bosch plugs of which I've installed thousands and never broke one. Something to learn every day. I'll try NGK next.

Any other kind would be an improvment. Bosch NGK ??

Help, I have been enslaved be an evel doctor who ownes a 41 coupe and now has me working day and night. Besides the usual coil and timing problems , I need to install E-brake cables and maybe wheel bearings. I'm a audi- vw tech and don't know my way arount a ford car . The bk drum has an inner collar but seems to be glued in. Heated and have puller but it won't come off. Anyone? PS; can I get standard trans. shifter seals?