dcdpgh

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About dcdpgh

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  • Birthday 03/23/1964

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  1. I successfully used the "foil tape" which is actually the very sticky foil duct tape you've probably seen in home improvement stores. As mentioned in another post, it was a bit tricky to apply to the curved surfaces of the reflector housing. After much trial and error cutting and fitting, I was able to get sufficient coverage. I did not get 100% coverage, but I got "most" of the inner housing wells covered. The other important step in this process was cleaning and polishing the red tail lenses. It was amazing how dirty the inside of the lenses were when I disassembled them. After a good sudsy cleaning and drying, I used Maguire's Plastix lens polish on the outside surface of the lenses (can't do the inside - they're all dimpled). That process removed 90% of the surface scratches and gave the lens a fresh shiny look. Once reassembled, the combined effort was quite noticeable. I now have bright tail lights.
  2. I used 3M spray adhesive as well when I replaced the under hood insulation on my '68. Absolutely necessary on the large center piece. I sprayed a bit for the smaller pieces as well for good measure. I did that job back around 2008 or 2009, and it has held just fine.
  3. I like this generation as well, you don't see enough of them - meaning never. This appear to be a nice survivor, although I think I see incorrect center caps on the chrome road wheels. This one appears to have the large ribbed cone center caps which would only be correct for '66 thru '70. I think the "flat" silver caps with the stylized R would be correct for this car.
  4. My spring start up routine consists of nothing more than what has been stated here. My car sits for 5+ months during winter hibernation, and I've never had any issues with the spring start up. I'll second the idea of not starting the car until it can be driven a good distance and brought to full operating temperature. Starting a stored vehicle just to let it sit there and idle to"warm up" does more harm than good from what I've learned.
  5. Exactly. How many Rivieras (and other full size Buicks for that matter) do you see at shows and cruise nights wearing wheel covers? I would venture to say that many of these remaining cars have "upgraded" to chrome road wheels at some point in their life.
  6. I'm pretty sure 1969 was the first year for the electric fuel pump for Riviera. If stock, 1967 would be mechanical, like my '68.
  7. Sounds like a bad ignition switch or starter solenoid. I had a recent experience that resulted in replacing the ignition switch and having the starter rebuilt. I still do not know if a bad ignition switch "did in" the starter solenoid, but the starter was beginning to exhibit signs of failure anyway (I would get the dreaded "click" when engaging the starter the first couple attempts). Eventually I got the car started, but then could not shut off the running engine in any key position (the starter was disengaged at that point). That behavior is usually diagnosed as a bad ignition switch. Eliminate the ignition switch as the source of "permanent" voltage to the starter as Tom suggests, and go from there. Depending on the eventual diagnoses, I believe replacement ignition switches are available for that model (1969) for less than $50.. I was not so lucky, as the 1968 is a one year only switch - another story. If the starter is the culprit, your options are replacement or rebuild. My opinion would be to have the original rebuilt if you can. I have talked with folks who had repeat failures of over-the-counter replacement/remanufactured starters. I had mine rebuilt by a local alternator/generator shop that specializes in starter/alternator repairs. The cost was about $150, and that included labor to remove and reinstall. (I was able to get one more start of the old one and drive my car there). They even "refinished" the casing, so it looked new on the outside as well. Might be worth seeing if you have a shop like that in your area. Sorry I could not be more helpful on diagnostic tips, but hopefully the cost information from my ordeal helps your decision process.
  8. Jason, I am having success with Sta-bil Marine Formula (the blue stuff). I had always used the "regular" red Sta-bil to keep the gas in the tank from going stale, but switched to the marine formula/blue stuff a couple years ago when the ethanol epidemic surfaced. For full disclosure I should also say that I am running with a restored carburetor with updated seals and soft rubber parts designed for modern fuel blends. I usually only put in about 1/2 tank of gas (10 gallons) at a time, doing so when I'm on about a 1/4 tank. I drive the car frequently in the summer months (almost weekly), so the gas does not sit in the tank long. I would say at most I'll go three weeks between trips to the gas station, certainly no longer than a month. Now, I treat winter storage differently. I store my car from late October to April, so it sits idle for 5+ months. Before putting the car up for winter storage, I will run the gas gauge as low as I dare to and fill up with ethanol free gas. There is a station reasonably close by, but not close enough to use all the time. I just add the regular red Sta-bil to that fuel-up before parking for the winter. I have also read good things about products called Star-tron and Mix-I-Go, but I have no experience with those. Hopefully others will respond with their experiences.
  9. I have attended this cruise in the past, and got the same vibe Keith is referring to, hence you don't see a picture of my car in the first post. Support is a two way street.
  10. Silly question - the radio buttons in my '68 do not have B-U-I-C-K on them like I see on most every other late sixties Riviera (and other Buicks for that matter). I suppose a previous owner could have swapped out the original radio at some point. So the question is, what year(s) did these radios not say B-U-I-C-K on the buttons? My car's interior is rather unmolested, and it's an early build '68 (September '67) if it matters. I know, not the most pressing question of the day, but I'm still curious.
  11. Thanks for the complements Brian and Keith. Being a Riviera only color in '68, you almost never see it. I've only seen one other in person. Brian - those paint samples sure can be misleading, especially when you look online as you say you did. I have an original 1968 Buick paint color brochure, and I can tell you even in person the Buckskin paint sample is slightly off from my car's paint. Either the pigment in the sample has deteriorated, or the paint on the car has changed over time, but likely both.
  12. This same question was posed in a duplicate post in the Riviera sub-forum which I responded to, but I'll respond here as well since this thread has taken off. I have a Buckskin '68 Riviera. The paint code on the body tag is "X2", the "X" is the paint color (Buckskin) and the "2" is the top color (black) vinyl. No disrespect intended, but the car in Centurion's post #8 does not look like Buckskin, at least it does not look like my car. '68 Riv Buckskin is not a metallic color, it is more like a coffee color, that looks light tan in sunlight. See picture of my car attached.
  13. I used 3M spray adhesive when I redid the hood insulation on my '68. That was about 6 or 7 years ago, and it's still holding like the day I installed it.
  14. Hey Chris, I have a '68 Riv in Buckskin. I don't have a picture of the body tag handy, but I know the paint code is "X2". The "X" is the body color (Buckskin), and the "2" is the vinyl top color (black). Riviera paint colors are identified by letters, so it looks like it does not translate to the Electra body tag you're looking at. The interior codes seem to use similar nomenclature though, as my interior code is 683, which is a custom Strato-bench vinyl interior - Buckskin.
  15. I encountered this exact situation this past weekend, and it prompted me to come here to see if this had been discussed. While on my way to an old car event, I was passed on the road by another car which had a vintage plate from another state on it's rear bumper. Since I "went vintage" I tend to be more observant of the plates on other old cars. I even commented about it to my wife who was in the car with me at the time. I was hoping to find the car and talk to the driver once we arrived, but was unable to find either as this was a rather large event. To make the story even more strange, the other car was a 69 Ford, and it had a black and yellow California vintage plate on it....