Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Anthenium

  1. Hey Marty, I got the 16V Throttle Cable. It has a different end for the Throttle Body side, but I'll "Improvise, Adapt, Overcome!" You got any 5-Speed Linkage Parts? (I'll check your site...) But thanks for the cable.
  2. I saw this posted on the TD (TurboDodge) website: TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!
  3. None available Nationwide. I think Marty has 'em ALL! Well, my 50th B-Day is in November. Guess what I want for my B-Day?
  4. I had the Funniest Thing happen to me last night. I was driving home from a Small Town in South Central Indiana, heading towards another. I had a Primer Honda Hatch in all it's Ricer Glory riding my @$$, and Blipping his throttle getting little Chirps while doing so. We had just gotten out of a Residential area, and out to a 2 lane Hiway. As soon as he got back on my @$$ I Nailed it!!!! The Pedal went to the Floor!!! And stayed there. My throttle cable had broken at the pedal. The ricer almost year ended me in the process, and I pulled off the road to figure out what had happened. After about 5 minutes of evaluation I found that the cable was broken, and there wasn't too much I could do about it in the mean time. So, how to get home? I figured at an Idle, I'd probably get up to about 10 - 15 MPH, and I needed to go 30+ miles. Then I looked at the throttle linkage. Hmmm! I found a small stone, and wedged it between the linkage and a flat surface. After trying several stones I found one that held 2500 RPM's. Popped it in, Dropped the Hood, and away I went! I was home in an hour, and it was rather uneventful after that. Now, the Big Question is, does the 16v/DOHC Chrysler TC by Maserati use the same throttle cable as any other Turbo-Dodge, or is this yet another of their MANY Unique pieces? Anyone have any idea? Anyone have a SPARE laying around? I have a Discontinued MotorMite Part Number from Advance Auto, and I think it is yet another unique piece to this very frustrating car! PN = 16577 I may look into making a cable if I can't find one in a week or 2... Thanks!
  5. If you're going that Deep, why not go 2.5 Liter? the Torque will make a WORLD of difference for the Portly TC. you'll need to upgrade the SMEC/Computer as well, but FWD (Front Wheel Drive) or FM (Forward Motion) can help you there. Or get a Stock Turbo I 2.5 from a MiniVan, or whatever. i'm building one up for my Wife's '89 T-II right now. Looking to make about 250 HP when completed...
  6. Hi Steve, I'll be out there, but probably Sans-TC. My wifes has the head gasket issue, and I just never took the 5-Speed out of winter storage. My work has a Party at the Goodyear dealership at 15 Mile & Woodward. I'll be there from 2ish - 5ish. I play in a band, and we're playing at The Ritz later that evening, so not too much time for Dream Cruising. I'll look for you though! Tony
  7. No time to pull the head this weekend. Hope to get it started this week, but we'll see. I might just tow this to Indiana when I move, and deal with it there...Which means I've got to get my 16V out of Storage!!!
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwinCamFan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's just the head gasket Tony, #1 cylinder is the primary culprit. When you pull the head off and take those pics, we'll see the little strip of headgasket that outlines the waterjacket passage in that back corner, has deformed and pushed in a little bit. With 130K it's time to think about valve seals, if they are doing valve seals, then you're right there for a valve job and a little milling to make sure the deck is flat. See how it kinda 'snowballs' Ask you head shop guy to use his flatness gauge (a very thick perfectly flat bar of steel) to check the 'rear valve cover rail' for flatness. That is the little flat area where the valve cover seals along the back of the head. If a head has been previously warped but then milled flat on the deck (head gasket sealing surface) it will be true on the bottom yet twisted everywhere else including the cam journals being out of line with eachother. Anyway check Tubo-mopar for tips on pulling the head, take those pics, get the head checked out by a qualified machinist/cylinder head shop, have them do the valve job and four new exhaust guides, and put it back together with new head bolts and a mopar performance head gasket with a light coat of Permatex copper spray gasket on each side. Good to go Alan </div></div> Thanks Alan. Looks like I have something to do this weekend now!
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Reichert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is a plug on the top of the thermostat housing. It needs to be loosened to bleed off the air in the head. A lot of turbo mopar people also drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat to prevent air pockets in the head. Hole goes to the top. I'm guessing the the head gasket was ready to go and you just gave that little nudge. You might want to blow any coolant out or the cylinder till you get it running. There are a lot of turbo Mopar entusiast in Indiana also. </div></div> Thanks Bill, I'll make sure I Burp the head when I refill the cooling system!
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 89TC-16V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what kind of cracking? 2.2L heads are known to crack between the seats and never cause any problems. </div></div> Well, I'm thinking a crack between the water jacket & combustion chamber, or exhaust port, since it's blowing coolant out the tail pipe, and pressurizing the cooling system. It will be interesting once I pull the head. I'll take Pic's to share!
  11. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Reichert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you didn't "burp" the head when the new coolant was added, you probably warped the head a little and blew the head gasket. You don't know what brand headgasket it had. Pull the head get it pressure checked and resurfaced and valve job done. TU has the Mopar head gaskets and head bolts. The rear corner of #1 is where some brand gaskets like to blow. </div></div> No, I didn't burp the head. How is this done, for future reference? And, no, I don't know the brand of head gasket it had. Any recomendations on what to replace it with? <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Reichert</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> NOW if your wife isn't one to notice the idiot lights on, you may have also overheated the bearings..... There are LOTS of enthusiasts in the Detroit area if you want local help finding someone to do the work. Try http://Turbo-Mopar.com for a mechanic in your area. Another engine is another gamble on what work and abuse the engine has seen. </div></div> Well, she does watch the Temp Gauge. so I would assume she'd notice any lights as well. I didn't see any lights when it blew the coolant out either, just that steady rise of the Temp Gauge. Yes, another engine is a gamble. And the timing couldn't be worse. I just took a new job, and have to get ready to move to Indiana. Thanks Guys!
  12. My wife's '89 TII had some Grungy looking coolant in the radiator, so I decided to flush it out, and add new coolant. All went well, and she drove it to work for 2 days, and noticed the temp gauge was running at about 25%, vs about Mid-Gauge as before. Sounds good so far! That weekend we decided to drive it to a friends house about 30 miles away. About 5 miles down the road I noticed the temp gauge going to 3/4's, and climbing! I stopped, and grabbed the gallon of water in the trunk. When I popped the hood the overflow tank was Bubbling over, and there was the smell of exhaust coming out of the coolant. I poured about 1/2 gallon of water into the car, which cooled it down, and limped home, and topped it off again to cool it off before shutting her down. My first thought was blown head gasket, but no coolant in the oil, although that doesn't rule it out completely. 2nd thought is cracked head. Spark plug closest to timing belt looks Steam Cleaned compared to the other 3, and after further diagnosis, I can see water is coming out the exhaust now. Bubbles still being blown into the coolant as well. I'm considering the possibility that this head had problems in the past, and previous owner may have used some Stop-Leak product to fix it before selling it, and I broke it loose after flushing the radiator. (I've had the car 5 years though, so it held up pretty good!) The car has about 130K miles on her, so not a bad run... 1st thought is find another 2.2 Turbo II, and drop it in. 2nd is head swap. 3rd is dump the car, although my wife REALLY likes this car. Any thoughts, suggestions, remedies, "This is what I'd do" that you'd like to share would be appreciated.
  13. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JASPER TALLADEGA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am planning on leaving the Yellow/Black/Black 16 valve 5 speed on ebay for it's final 2 days. Do not miss an extremely Rare 1 of only 4 made in this color combo California Specials! </div></div> I have another of those "1 of 4" California Specials. I bought it from the original owner, who had moved to Oregon. Sweet car! (If I can get the Passenger door to open!!!)
  14. Here's a Seal Package: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-PER...sspagenameZWDVW
  15. Found this on The Bay. Mopar Performance +20% injectors for a Mopar 2.2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180231687361&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 If anyone is interested, feel free...
  16. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: inventorgtp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Our little gems have yards and yards of it, so what is the best treatment out there. I have a local tandy leather shop, so lay it on me...gots to keep blondi looking sharp. </div></div> I follow the TC Pages Detailing script every year. Here's the Leather portion. Scroll up/down for other ways to keep Blondie looking good. I use the Lexol products... http://members.aol.com/TCMasratiPage/TC/Detail.html#LEATHER
  17. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwinCamFan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's the zero carb Monsters right Tony ? Alan </div></div> That's Right! The Big Blue "M" makes me go Faster!
  18. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LouZ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is a step by step that was displayed here in the past, that slips into the "Cubby". There is also a double cupholder made of plexiglass that slips over the console directly on top of the ashtray. The guy that makes them advertises in the TC America newsletter. I personally like the tinted plexiglass one.. </div></div> +10 on the Tinted Plexi-Glass! Holds 2 Monster Energy Drinks, right where you want them!
  19. Doesn't the Neon use an A413 Tranny? Is it interchangeable with our Humble TC's?
  20. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jeffn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now add low profile 16s or 17s and you have a true Italain handler... </div></div> Not in Detroit! Packard closed their Rough Road Course in the '50's because the Public Roads in Detroit are Harsher than anything they could put together...Not much has changed!
  21. Oh Yeah! My wife's car is Complete for the year. I didn't realize it, but the previous owner had the exhaust changed to a 2 1/2" fron the cat back (Not sure if it's a stock cat or not!), and I recently added the SMEC from an 88 Daytona Sheby-Z, which was a nice upgrade, and I just finished installing a PolyBushings sway bar, which really adds the Finishing touch to this cute little car! It really whips around corners like it means business! The bar seems about 1" norrow for the TC, but it REALLY tightens up the rear end. Here's where I got it, in case you don't have one yet. It's under $200 delivered, and Johnny just made a Fresh Batch! http://polybushings.com/pages/swaybarkrr.html
  22. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Reichert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That "black box" is the logic module from an 87 or earlier year. The earlier cars had the logic module in the car and the power module under the hood. I never looked at the TC but it would be all under the hood. 88 was SMEC for the US Mopars, 89 and later was the SBEC for US cars. Single Module Engine Co Single Board Engine </div></div> Makes sense, as my Shelby Charger was an '87, and the last year they made them...I still got a GREAT Deal on this piece, $50, and I may find a use for it someday! Thanks for sharing the knowledge,
  23. Okay, I have a question. I have found on Craiglist a Mopar Performance Stage 2 computer for the Turbo II. It sounds like what the TC Pages refers to here: a) Mopar Performance lists an '89 Turbo2 Stage2 SMEC. This unit is now NS-1 (discontinued) but if you're able to find one, list price is $295. This unit is truly a plug-and-play operation; the boost is set at 14 lb, the boost schedule is much better and overboost limit is raised slightly, while timing/fuel curves are unchanged from stock. This SMEC makes a huge difference in any T II 2.2, reducing turbo response time and increasing horsepower to about 200 hp without sacrificing drivability or fuel economy. If using this unit, use one-step-colder... What the seller actually has is a "Black Box" that went into the Passenger side kick panel of his Daytona Shelby Z. I remember the Shelby Charger I had, and it had a similar box. Does the Chrysler TC have a similar Black Box in the kick panel? Would I be able to use this module, or will I be saving it for a Shelby Z project?
  • Create New...