Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 17studie

  1. More info on rebuild kits thanks. I have a 17 Studebaker. I run an SU fuel pump - with a dummy line thru the vacuum tank. The bowl needle and seat have to be in good order - it does not leak. If there is fuel leaking out the bowl it would have to be the needle and seat, or incorrect float level or the float could be hanging up at times. When I first ran my car after restoration - it ran very rich - would fill the shed with black smoke unless I manually pushed the axilliary air "flapper" down. I eventually found that the fuel needle was worn and too short - letting in far to much fuel. I made a new longer needle by experimentation - it now runs quite well. Last weekend it completed a veteran car rally - approx 200 miles - and pulled up most hills in top.
  2. Dave Hi, That is the right carby - Schebler R - I have seen slight variations in the bowl feed fitting and the mechanism for the main air butterfly but they would all do the job. There have been a few on eBay over the last 12 months and I have seen the occassional one at Bendigo and Ballarat swap meets - so one will turn up. I had to make a new longer fuel needle for mine (1917) as it ran way too rich with the needle that was in it. It also runs better on modern fuel if you do not hook up the inlet preheat tube from the manifold. regards, David
  3. Thanks for the replys. The reason I asked about max speed was not so I could push the car that fast or faster. I do not want to push it, if its not capable of more than say 40mph. I have vintage and classic cars and bikes and this is my first veteran car - and a lot different to drive in many ways and I'm still getting used to it. The motor has been rebuilt and is probably still tight and I doubt it has gone over our 60 kph (38mph) town speed limit. The car seems to run quite well so I'm confident that the timing and tuning are OK.
  4. My 17 Studebaker (4 cylinder) has been restored and back on the road for several months and I've been on a few runs with it. I would be interested to know what the maximum speed that this car would be capable of. The car runs well - climbs hills well (slowly), and on the flat seems happy at about 38-40 mph. I have a feeling that that is all it is capable of, but would like confirmation if possible.
  5. Obviously I'm doing something wrong with photos - as these don't open either. Any clues?
  6. Another old Studebaker is back on the road. Yesterday after a 4 year restoration my 1917 Studebaker was back on the road. It still has a few teething problems to sort out, but hopefully I'll get there. This is my first veteran car and it sure is different to drive. Like learning to drive all over again. Can anyone help with parts for an R model Schebler carby - mainly fuel needle and air spring. I made a new needle based on a worn one I had. She might run better if I could get the correct needle and spring.
  7. Rick Hi, I have fitted a 6 volt relay - will have to test it when I get the car mobile. As for spark - I have recently gotten my rebuilt motor going - but I had lots of trouble with my original coil and a NOS one I bought. If everything was right and the battery fully charged I could get it started, but the spark was very weak. I bought a modern Bosch 6 volt coil and condenser and now no problem at all - nice big blue spark. Now having a few problems with the carby but think its the fuel needle - so have made a new one and will fit soon and see if its any better. The car is running too rich and I have to have the auxiliary air and lower spring tensioner both wound fully out (which should make it very lean)- but its still rich. thanks David
  8. Can anyone help with a generator relay for a 1917 SF 4 - as per the attached photo. I have completed the rebuild of my motor and am missing this part. The cars restoration is finally nearing completion and I'm chasing those last few parts and information. Thanks
  9. Hi - can anyone help with identifying radiator badges? I have 2 badges as per the attached photo - one on the left has no color background around the wheel spokes - the one on the right has a blue background. The design on the spokes is a little different also. Which one is right for 1917? thanks, David
  10. Hi - can anyone help with info on the design of the side curtains for the hood of a 1917 SF 4 tourer? Are they the same as for a 1916 Series 17? I cannot find a photo of a series 18 with the side curtains on. There is a local 1916 SF here with curtains copied from the originals - but I don't know if they are the same or if there was a change for 1917. Thanks, David
  11. The thread is neither 3/4 NPT or 7/8 BSP. It must have been some weird one off Studebaker thread. I managed to get an outlet for a magneto model - which had a nut on it with the same thread. I also had half an original 45 degree outlet - with no thread (earlier ones were push in type). So turned up a threaded section from bit of cast iron to match the nut - then welded the 2 bits together - worked out Ok in the end. But still don't know what the thread actually is. thanks, David
  12. Can anyone help with information re the water jacket to water pump fitting on the front of the 1917 4 cylinder block. I think the original was cast iron/steel, threaded into the block, then 45 degree bend to hose neck. The thread in the block seems unusual - best I can work out is 7/8" BSPT - which seems unavailable in taps and dies. I need to make a new fitting - unless someone out there has a spare for sale? Thanks for any help, David
  13. Rick Hi, I am restoring a 17 Tourer 4 cyclinder and am looking for the same relay. If you have success could you please let me know details. thanks. djcant@adam.com.au - Australia
  14. Nicolas Hi, I am restoring a 1917 4 cylinder tourer and had some of the same problems you have listed. I had the ignition switch levers and the hood latches cast from originals. The hole in the ignition panel is for an ignition lock - which I eventually found one and had a key cut - it now all works OK. I have the smaller gear for the speedo drive - can count the teeth for you if you still need to know. My car is progressing - chassis is now fully restored, body is at the paint shop, engine is being rebuilt. email me direct at djcant@adam.com.au - I may be able to assist with more information etc. David (Australia)
  15. Hi. I am in the process of restoring a series 18 tourer and have had to remake all the wooden parts of the body. I was lucky that although all the old wood was rotten it was more or less intact and could be used as patterns. I know of someone in Queensland who is restoring a roadster - he may be able to help. I am looking for parts for the jump seats for my tourer, if anyone can help. Also does anyone have an email address for Andrew Ott - would like to contact him re an article he wrote on series 18 jump seats. cheers, David
  • Create New...