McDar

First, isolate it as to whether the problem is the solenoid or the starter motor. If your positive cable from the battery to the solenoid is long enough disconnect it from the solenoid and touch it against the wire/strap that goes from the solenoid down into the starter motor case. If it's not long enough, use a heavy jumper (10g minimum) from the battery post on the solenoid to the wire running down into the case. If the motor is good it will spin but not engage the flywheel. If it spins then the solenoid or wiring is the problem and if it doesn't the motor is bad.

An update on the two 76 year old 37 models, the Special and the old man. I replaced the three rubber brake hoses that had collapsed on the inside and barely flowed fluid so I guess it was only fitting that something the same age had plugged up hoses also so had three bypassed. Still want to make a big trip but may avoid high altitude and thin air even though I'm sure the one 37 model could handle it fine. Gas is coming down so the time seems right. I'll post this in the "Parts for Sale" but I have an extra straight eight HEI that I made for a person that never came to pick it up. Has the hold down, hold down studs, and vacuum advance hook up. Everything is new. The HEI set up is twice as expensive and not one bit better than a Pertronix conversion but I wanted something on a long trip that parts could be bought for from any small town parts store. I have noticed that the electronic gives quicker starts and maybe a few more mpg's IF you have a full 12 volts. The old points distributor would fire off with as low as 10.5 volts but not so with the electronic.

You can google "248 Buick crankshaft specs" and get what you need. I like the ones by secondchancegarage.com.

I would think you could wire it like any other engine with any number of cylinders. Bring #1 up on compression while watching which way the rotor turns. Run the first wire to #1, the second to #4, the third to #9, and through the firing order till all wires are run from the cap(s) to the plugs. If you don't know where each wire goes in the cap then with the cap(s) off you can use an ohm meter to tell which way the rotor is facing when a firing position comes up and mark the cap.

I never lift an engine with anything that is attached to two or more points. This makes the engine semi rigid and harder to position. If the hoist is attached at one position only then the chain (or cable) will let the engine roll, tilt, twist, or a combination of everything at once with no binding or having to lift a lot. Many places sell lift plates for V8's that attach to the carb flange but one has to make a very simple one for inline engines. A peice of angle iron the length of the rocker shaft with holes in one flange for at least two rocker stand bolts to pass through ( I like to subsitute 2 grade 8 bolts 1/2" longer) and a series of holes in the other flange so the lift chain can attach to give the desired angle. I use a clevis that can be easily moved in these holes. With a long engine it is often necessary to lower the engine with it almost standing on end till it can rest on something and then move the clevis to raise it level. I think you will like working with an engine that can be easily maneuvered.

It's been several years and my 37 is a Special but if I recall it right there may have been a bracket between the filler tube and the body. It was a pure *% to get it worked down and out due to the filler neck being rigidly attached to the tank. It did NOT go back in that way and now has a hose connection in the neck like all modern cars. I cut the neck up high so the only way you can tell it is by sliding under the car with a flashlight.

How many years will interchange with a 40 Series 26 3rd member. Is there anything online that is similar to a Hollander's interchange manual? Replaced the transmission and 39-54 had many interchangeable parts but don't know if rear center sections are also like this. The trans was like this and by the terrible sound I'd bet the rear is the same.

Thank you, John. I stumbled around on the internet till I found a complete small parts kit plus shaft at amerrestoration.com. I'm such a dummy I didn't know local parts stores have the bearings as they have been used for many other applications, but still, thank you for the response; Evan

Did a search and didn't come up with any source for 3sp manual transmission parts for a 49 Special. Need to replace the needle bearings and shafts on the cluster as well as the ball bearings on the input and output shafts. Thanks; Evan

I have both the Buick and Olds 215 engines. The Olds is the turbo charged Jet Fire version and was a bit problematic on head sealing. I learned that champhering the head bolt holes and replacing the bolts with studs solved the problem and eliminated any thread wear to the deck threads. Get some anti sieze and use it on every thread that involves a steel bolt going into aluminum.

I have a 40 Series 26 business coupe that the lube leaks from the small vertical shaft that selects whether the 1st/Rev. or 2nd/3rd fork moves. I can't see any seal on the outside but it may have one on the inside. The Motor's Manual that I have has an exploded view but it's so tiny I really can't tell how it's sealed. Is there somewhere I might find a large exploded view? Thank you; Evan

Were the K series pickups positive or negative ground? I got a 41 half ton that has after market gauges but found a very clean original instrument cluster so want to make sure to wire it correctly. The present set up has an internal regulator alternator and 12v negative ground. I can use voltage reducers on the gauges but wonder about a source for the original sending units for temp, fuel, and oil. Thank you for any direction; Evan

First, the picture was taken right here in the Dallas area a year ago. Most snow ever recorded and a very cold winter. This winter is MUCH better. As to the belt/pulley/bracket set up I used a 52 or 53 straight eight crank balancer with the narrow pulley and a later 235 Chevy fan pulley also for the narrow belt. This came about because the only wide pulley Sanden a/c compressor I could find is for the Flathead Ford and it's too wide. The brackets and head bolts I made. It was so tight a working space that one just about has to pull off the front clip. I just left it off till it was running and working with a temporary radiator. I would have preferred to have the compressor on the right side so the hoses didn't crossover the engine but just couldn't come up with a good way to mount it. The alternator brackect is welded to the front motor mount bracket which was easier than trying to use the factory generator mount holes. It's been that way for 20 years so I guess it's alright. Even though the mount plate is 1/4" steel I think the brace from the outer edge down to a threaded boss on the block is good for taking strain off the head bolts. The quarters are so close I don't know how much can be gleaned fron the pictures but they may help a little bit.

First and right up front my 37 Special is not factory correct but tried to stay true to it's original design without a bunch of butchering. Saved everything to convert back after the "Big Trip" which may not happen now with $5 gas lurking on the horizon. Plan was for the journey to begin in the DFW area, on to Florida, up to Hershey, across to Iowa/Minnestota (kin), out to Yellowstone and on to S.F. before returning to Texas. Right now it's getting 17.4 @ 2000 rpm which is 61 mph. Changes were to 12v with alt., a very shallow rear, a 2.73, which the 52 263 straight eight handles with no strain, 225/75R15 radials inflated to 38psi, sunvisor and outside mirrors removed, all fluids now are synthetic, HEI electronic distributor with plugs gapped at 0.060, thermostat is 195, two inch exhaust with low restriction muffler (but not loud), both front and rear ends aligned since rear now has trailing arms to hold in place, and tuned on the chassis dyno with the air/fuel ratio of 15:1 being the target. It has the a/c heat combo but with the torque of this engine I think it will still hover near the 17 figure with the cold air blowing--a must in Texas.

Jim, you are in luck that the DUMBEST computer key board hunt and pecker has seen your post. All these folks that are smart on computers can't teach the dummies squat. First go down the page and click on "Go Advanced". Go down to "Attach Files" and click on Manage Attachments. This will show a box with a row of "Browse" selections. Click on a Browse and more than likely the wrong pictures will come up but move the arrow to the left and click on "My Documents" where one listing will be "MY Pictures". Double click on "My Pictures" and scroll through them till you find the one you want. Click on the picture you want and then on "Upload". After it loads click on "close this window" (upper right) and then on "Preview Post". If all is okay click on "Submit" and we can all look at your beautiful picture.

I have a complete 30 front and rear axle that has all the brake parts and the wooden spoke wheels and tires. Tires are rotten I'm sure. Big parts I can probably find but many small parts are at the bottom of endless piles which I have no use for but can't bring myself to throw away. This was a genuine Mexican taxi with boat gas tank, truck spring leafs for bumpers, 34 Chevy hood, Model A radiator and shell, Rambler engine, and the list goes on. Before and after pics:

Thanks Guys, never gave the X-frame a thought but of course it is a factor. I have one in my 37 Buick (custom built) and I agree that cruising 61mph at 2000rpm is a big improvement over the factory gearing. Will get the LaSalle ( 1940 52 series sedan) on the lift and mull over the possibilities. I'm a bit leary of the T5 offered in the S10/Mustang/Camaro as to it's durability in a heavy car.

Did GM ever offer the Borgwarner three speed overdrive transmission behind the flathead Cadillac/LaSalle engine? Thank you; Evan

What series is your coupe? Would be interested if a 50 series, can't use the 52 series. Thank you; Evan

Your question intrigued me to the point I had to find out. What I found was VERY surprising to me. Pictured is a cap with an access hole to reach in with a wire type feeler gauge. It's hard to make out so I painted the gauge white--it's "L" shaped and you have to look close to discern the rotor tip and the contact in the cap. The gap is a measured 0.105 but I'd bet it was 0.100 before erosion from use. I stacked flat feeler gauges to obtain 0.100 and it fit also but not a nicely as the round wire gauge since ones dealing with a curved surface. I would have guessed the gap would be about the same a a sparkplug but not so. I have several 235 Chevy point type distributors and caps but haven't dug up a rotor yet. When I find one I'll measure it since they have the old Delco point type and the gap may be different.

Interesting question. Tomorrow I'll cut the top off a distributor cap and measure the rotor to plug wire contact distance. Will do the same to an electronic cap to see if the gap has styed pretty much the same through the years. Since it on a curved surface I will use a wire gauge instead of a flat feeler gauge so keep that in mind.

Barney, I don't have to send anything to Pete, he can just come the six miles from his shop to mine and check it out as much as he wants. Evan

Grant, it's definitely in the early stage. I gathered up just parts that I had on hand for a prototype. I have a Sun distributor machine so before the final version I'll run the Buick on it and graph out all the data, both mechanical and vacuum. There are a jillion spring and weight combos offer for the GM distributor so I should be able to match the HEI to the Buick specs. Right now I advanced it till it sounds good and doesn't kick back at the starter when starting warm.

Ben, how big of a hurry are you to try one? Since I know it works I am going to buy a brand new HEI and use it. The present one was computer controlled and has no vacuum advance but was good enough for a test. When I visit my sister I go from Big Cabin in Oklahoma across the turnpike to Hwy. 71 at Joplin and then north to KC. Does this come anywhere near you? If so, the next trip I could let you use the prototype to make one of your own. I also have a place at Branson but if at all possible I'll NEVER drive in that area again. Evan

Grant, the lower the compression the bigger the gap that will still fire. I've set the float in the carb at it's lowest minimum, put an insulation block between the carb and manifold, fuel pressure at 2.3 #'s, and routed all lines away from heat and the darn thing still percolates when turned off after a longer drive. With points I had to grind the starter for a while before starting but with the HEI and the big gap to give a fat hot spark it fires right up. It still blows the initial cloud of black smoke but it DOES start quickly. Ben and Barney, I wish I could put script with pictures or make a drawing with dimensions but this 75 year old dog ain't learned those new tricks. Here's a word description to the photos below. Both distributors have almost 2" of the case that fits down into the block---no machining required. The Buick is 1.375" diameter on the part that fits into the block and the Olds is 1.517" on the top and bottom shoulders that locate it in the block but, guess what; the case itself is 1.375", the same as the Buick. The two shoulders have to be turned off on a lathe down to the 1.375 dimension. The only sticky parts is the Olds shaft is too short since it fits into a distributor gear with a hex hole at the bottom. A longer Chevy shaft is used so it can be cut to length and the blade (tang) for driving the oil pump is milled at the bottom. It is centered in the shaft and 0.160 thick by 5/8 long. I don't have a drill that will even scratch the Buick distributor gear so I slid it up onto the shaft till it was against the washer on the bottom of the case and drilled through the shaft at that point. The hole in the Buick gear is a tad smaller than 9/64 but bigger than a 1/8, actually measures to 3.5 millimeters. I ground a 9/64 drill to that size and then turned a matching pin on the lathe to fasten the gear to the shaft. I put two studs in the block where the two hold down bolts went to clamp down the Buick distributor because the HEI is big enough around to make it a blind job starting bolts. Made the horse shoe shaped hold down clamp to drop down over the studs which have a smooth starter end on them.