CTraveler

I know I wil be probably drumed out of the Chrysler Club but I feel my Traveler needs to be updated to live in the modern world. Although I love the car and have been a mechanic all my life, the problems with the engine and trans since I bought it are not worth any more expense and trouble. I plan to put a Chevy v8 in it with auto trans. I know it wont be easy but I can have reasonable power and shifting I can depend on. I would like to talk to anyone who has done or tried this installation so I can learn what to avoid. I know the 48 is pos ground 6 volt Perhaps a 6/12 battery is the way to go. Would appreciate any comments.

Mike the crankshaft and fit new bearings if worn. I got mine from Egge and better quality than other suppliers. If crank is standard you can get undersize by1,2 or 3 thou.

After much work and expense the shifting is very poor and not fixable. The con rod bearing seem to make the engine much better but shifting has many problems. I hear it is possible to install a regular clutch unit from a Dodge, Plymouth or De Soto. Has anyone done this conversion and what Is involved. Will the linkage work, or new cross member. This is the last stop before I pull the engine and trans and shove in a Small blk Chevy and make it a street rod. Dont want to do this but enough is enough. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

There is a nice Chrysler or? display engine on Ebay #280030296089, looks like it was done by the factory., it is driven by elect motor. Lots of chrome.

My 1948 Chrysler Traveler has just a shut off valve in the head for the heater. Every old car that I owned has some way of controling the flow of hot water to the heater core thereby the temp in the car. Am I missing a control valve or how is the temp controled? I have a knob on the dash that would lead a person to believe it was to control heat. When I pull it the fog lites go on. Also does the heater blower motor have to run to get heat to the interior or is there supposed to be a air intake to push outside air thru the heater core? The blower switch has 3 positions but only runs on 3rd position, (fully out). Is this normal, Im trying to get this car ready for a possible run to Hershey Pa from Chicago first week of Oct. Replacing the con rod bearings went well and the engine sounds a lot quieter now but still needs a high speed road test. Also fitted a new oil pump and the proper oil filter internal pts and cleaned the pan of 2" of sludge. Former owner fitted small lines to the filter cannister (removeable element type)and I have the proper large lines to go on from the yard in Minn. but will have to wait until winter to do the change over.

Thanks for all the valuable advice. The wire off the Sisson choke is only long enough to reach the coil but my wiring diagram shows it should be connected to the starter selonoid as you stated, now I understand the function of the choke and will wire it properly. I will be posting other questions I have and need your help with.

My guess would be its a strainer for the windshield washer bottle but others may know for sure.

My 48 Traveler has a device linked to the choke, it has a wire not attached to anything, look like a coil of some type. Is bolted to the manifold, Manual dosent say much, I assume the wire operates a heater coil which slowly opens the choke when engine is cold, I will try to attach it to a hot lead and see what happens, is it connected to manifold in any way? If coil dosent work I will wire the choke open.

52er: If you dont want it I would be interested

Frank, thanks, saves pulling the diff, Ill have the C38 up on the lift next week sometime for brake work and Ill ck it out and report back.

Finally some GOOD news. Called French Lake Auto Parts and they sent a complete oil filter assembly complete with hard lines and internal parts I was missing. Perhaps I will get clean oil now when the engine is back together, still a long way to go but making progress.

Frank, ty, I am confused as to what ratio my Traveler has. Book says C38 with Hydrulic shift has 3.54, when I had it on a lift and counted the turns of drive shaft it looked liked 3.9 to me. Perhaps I already have a 3.54 and dont need to change.

Frank, thanks, I would like to know which ratio would work better.

Calling Jon Robinson

Finally got my 1948 Traveler and am getting it in shape for a trip to Hershey from Chicago as I do every yr. Found my diff has a lot of play in the ring and pinion and can turn the driveshaft back and forth quite a ways. I was going to pull the diff unit and adjust the R & P back to correct clearences. But the ratio is 3.9 and I would like to put in something higher for the highway. I know this was covered before but I need to know what unit would slip in and from what car. I used to shim a lot of racing car diffs so know how to do it but would rather not. My workshop manual lists a 3.54 offered with the hydraulic trans,??? Any info on this, many thanks.