Tom_O

I got through to Jim the parts are in the mail. Thanks for all the prompt attention. This club rocks!

Jim, I tried reaching your email address on both my home and work computer. For some reason this didn't work. Yes I am interested. Email me off the forum at tommossowski@aol.com. let me know the price, shipping to Austin Texas, and if need be over night delivery.

Thanks. I emailed him tonight. I know of a guy in arizona who has a couple reattas but he wants to sell the whole car running rusted or not.

Two weeks after I let my son drive the 90 reatta a college student in austin in a Ford f150 pick up truck rear ended him. My bavy is in the Covert Buick/Caddilac bump & paint shop. Needless to say they can't find any parts. Luckily no severe damage but I need a rear red reflector for passengers side. the plastic reflector broke in half and the other half is gone. Anywhere in Austin I can find this part?

I got a 99 GM envoy to fit No cutting and pasting either. I took mycar to my GMC/Buick dealer. The parts man tried several on my car until we got one to fit. The goal is to find a good parts guy who's willing to take the time.

I have Antique Automobile insurance through J.C. Taylor, 320 69th. Street, upper Darby, PA 19082. The Studebaker drivers club has a full page ad in every issue with an application. the agent wants a picture of the car and an estimated value (that you set). My Reatta is a 90 and the cut off with this company is 15 years,so 91 back would be covered by them. They are very pleasent people to work with. no, I don't get a finders fee.

Sorry to say, sounds like your hood is sprung. When that happens the structural integrity has been compromised. I agree with everyone else in that they owe you a hood replacement as well as a paint match. My mechanic who paints classic cars (some as old as 60 years old) says "anyone worth their salt" can color match and take into consideration the amount of U V fade. I would be reccomending to them (not the other way around) where you want this fixed. Good Luck and hope you get your baby back on the road soon. Tom O.

That happened to me recently on the 90 coupe. For some reason the chimes went out (pretty good reminder, to turn your lights out before you walk away from your car, all day, to go to work inside). I remembered I needed to fix it when I got home. I got the FSM, assembled all my tools, even cooled the garage down (My wife bought me a window unit for my birthday). I got in the car, put the key on access. and flipped the lights on. When I opened the door to get out, you guessed it, the chimes reminded me that I left the lights on. For insurance I left the FSM on my work bench where the car could see it, for a few days. The chimes have worked ever since. Murphy! I got you this time.

Sixty years young. Bought the Burgandy 90 to replace an 85 Fiero (the other GM 2 seater). As I have said before I have a 66 Avanti (I guess you could say my machanic owns it right now) in the middle of a frame off resto. Love driving the Reatta, and yes younger women give it a look, not me. Thank God I have tinted the windows.

By so many reads, I ment that I received a lot of feedback from my query (and all helpful). Only the fan motor was replaced, not the whole fan. It cost me about $55.00 and the mechanic said he was able to get it from Napa using the part number on the motor some where.It was new and not remanufactured so I figure GM must use this motor on a lot of vehicles. Thanks again everybody for all the help.

I replaced the puller motor. The one that draws air away from the radiator. As Barney said the fans are serial, and the voltage doubles when the ecm calls for more air. I was fairly suprised at so many reads. This must have been an engineering defect in all Reatta's.

Hi, Mark. I have been driving the Reatta with the new fan motor for about 3 days in all sorts of traffic.It's been in the high 90's here, with humidity to match (heavy air). I, maybe got to almost 2:00 O'clock once and only for a few seconds and the relay sent the guage back to 12:00 O'clock. I am very satisfied with the results and for not having to do any wiring is a blessing. I don't know if the heat effected the other relays but the horn relay went out just yesterday (I replaced it promptly). I remember one of the forum members saying all that heat under the hood could'nt be good for the wiring.I also noticed the chime went out. The one that tells you left your lights on. As Gilda Radner would say "It's always something". Can't tell what fuse that is, so another quest.

This is what was wrong with the 90 cooling cycle I mentioned earlier. Many of you have had the same problem. At highway speeds cooling temp shows 12:00 o'clock. in bumper to bumper traffic (Texas)temp climbs to 2:30 and never recovers until the air is shut off, then maybe stays at 2:00 o'clock. I put in the stant super 180 degree thermostat as recommended by many. It did improve cooling. I found a real good competant electrical mechanic (that was a chore) and he resherched the wiring diagram and did some tests. Diagnosis, fan motor on the two speed fan running way low, even though electrical impulse from computer correct and voltage to fan for boost speed correct. Answer: replaced fan motor and solved the problem. No programing involved. I wanted to pass this along since many of us may not have checked the motor. 16 years (90 model) of constant use and the copper winding and the armatures were shot. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

In my opinion Car Fax are the worst people to trust. They want to give you "0" for your car and want gold for whatever they are hawking. In Texas you can get a complete history of the car if you have the vin.#. The internet has services that will do this also (for a FEE). If you are buying and don't know--- find out first. Caviat Emptor!

The Tail-light rear lens in my 90 had the same problem. I removed the assy. and get some "optical polish". Auto Zone has it. It's $11.00 and the product is impregnated to foam discs that have a peel n stick adhesive. You apply the pads to a (supplied receiver w/drill shank). I chucked mine into my portable drill, followed the instructions and, poof, the "clouds parted" on the lens. A note, keep the lens wet ( used a spritz bottle) and it's a snap to use.