Byromax

Hello all.I would like to improve my suspension.(Don't we all)I have all ready replaced my front sway bar bushings and added a rear sway bar. Beside the fact this car has a lOT of body flex I would like to replace my springs. The springs are original and vary week. I don't want to twist the car in half but I want a better handling car. Now that being said Can any one suggest a set of springs that will do a nice job firming up the handling but not kill the ride? Firm is good ,rattling your teeth bad. Thanks.

How much do you want for the rims you have <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

You know I thought about that But Ive never replaced them while the head was on.I would definitely go with compressed air although I'm not sure how to keep the air seal on the cylinder I'm working on at the time? do they make threaded connections for the spark plug hole? This car doesn't use a lot of oil but that's still the rite way to go.( I'm trying to convince myself) Well why I'm at it should I replace the springs Or do you think that is unnecessary? Does this tool you were speeking of take care of the problem with keeping the cylinder charged with air so I dont drop a valve? Thanks.

All rite gentlemen went off the deep end and called Cindy at FWD performance.She recommended A F1 cam package (NEW cam,new roller lifters,high rpm adjusters.)I bought because I may be poor but Im easy.She said it would arive Wednesday depending on work,weather and general laziness I hope to have the install done by next weekend.Do you guys have any more suggestions on anything I should check while its apart?I will turn without belt to check for binding.Thanks Twin cam fan.(great idea) Thanks again.

Thanks,Louz If it stops raining here Ill try that.The only problem is the oil bath me and the car will take.Do you think I should just replace the cam hydraulic adjusters and roller arms?I cant stand to half way do something.This engine was supposed to have been rebuilt about 10000 miles ago.But that was taking the guys word on it.They may have used old at the time good parts too? If I find the problem is a spring or worn roller rocker would you know where I could order a new set? Thanks again.

The compression is good. I think I have found the noise i pulled the valve cover and it sounds like the problem is there. Now knowing that I'm not sure what to do about it. I cant see anything obvious,all of the rollers look good,no worn places on the cam.(none i can see without pulling it) I dont know if it is in the journals or the cam bearings. I did see a new Clevite cam at Northern auto parts but it has .020 oversize Bearing journals and i dont know what that would in tale. Do any of you guys have any Ideas on what i should do without BREAKING Tne Bank.

My 2.2 8v has rumble noise in the engine. I thought it was the lifters but after changing the oil pump I noticed it more in the crank area. I have to admit I dont know a lot about typical (what's normal and whats not.)sounds this typ of engine makes? I do remember my mother in laws old 2.5 making a rumble. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or do I need to be concerned? Ialso noticed under turbo my air turnes to heat it some how defaults to open the heat valve and my air cant make up the differance. can anyone lead me to resolve these questions. Thanks.

This problem comes and goes, I was under full throttle and let off the gas at around 75 and it continues to throttle.Then I hit the brakes.(still going)turn off all cruise while riding brakes.(still going)Get pissed off!(slam Brakes)and it stops full throttle.Im clueless a map senser doesnt sound right but ill try anything. Thanks again. Dan.

What is the deal with the 525 conversion. Is this a feasible alternative or can the a413 be built to Handel the power of true performance?

Two lines in trouble. Just as you said the black goes to the heater assembly the red line comming down from the new control panel had a worn place so it wouldn't change to a direct in your face air control function. Thanks again!

Thanks for the help ..But I cant find where the canister is or Im not understanding you. Thanks again.

I have a 89 8V hoped up a little. That's all good and dandy. but This little SOB Has a vac leak coming from under the steering wheel that is suppose to be hooked up to a actuator valve or something. I have replaced the gauge cluster the dryer and the pressure valve. This is causing it to not close off heat completely and not change positions when you press the push buttons. There are two hoses coming in at this point one is yellow brown the one that's not connected is black. If anyone knows where this goes Ill mow your grass LOL Thans all. This realy is a pain.

My cruise works fine.Tapping the brakes doesnt do anything it stays all out even if I use the brakes to control my speed.

Thanks, But the pcv hosea are new and clamped.The used to pop off under boost.

[color:"yellow"] Hello all. I replaced my computer with a up graded unit[high flow exhaust ect.] The car runs great in the gear its in then drops off for a long time even though its well within turbo spool.What really makes this fun is some times when you let of it continues to stay full out until you let it run its course or go into neutral and back in gear.[Three speed auto 8 Valve.] The cable is ant sticking its something else? Any advice would be great. Thanks all.