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1937RHDNZ

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  1. Hollander owners. Could somebody please let me know the interchange vehicles for 1937-38 front brake hose, series 40. UPDATE; Have since found a 1920-1948 hollander in our local library. I now see that brake hoses are excluded, so there is no answer to my original question. New question, what is correct length? I see a few sellers and the lenght varies by a few inches. My brake hose was damaged by catching on the damper arm.
  2. In imperial gallons thats close to 14mpg, my 37 buick, 248cubic inch, only gets about 12.5mpg. Mind you my 2010 Nissan Navara 4WD (Frontier) 4L, 244cu inch, V6 198kw or 261hp only gets 20L/100km around town, so I guess this is a common petrol consumption no matter what year the vehicle. I also believe that these older cars travel, on average, a lot faster than they were intended to, so that will push consumption up a lot as well. 20L/100km for 1930 is pretty reasonable.
  3. Hi, Once you have the old girl bolted back together and a bit of paint, it could look something like this. You might want to keep the steering on the other side though. Good luck
  4. It would seem that geting engine parts chromed 40 odd years ago was a lot more afforable than it is today. Rather interesting to see quite a few cars had their bits shinied up. My engine is back to 'normal' now. A huge improvement on the previous blanket black everywhere mess. Now happy these days to open the engine bay, for those interested.
  5. Probably only of interest to New Zealand Buick enthusiasts but here it is anyway www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=205758933 Note that this car has a chrome rocker cover, as mine did, from new? who knows. Just found a 1939 convertable as well, and another chrome rocker cover! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=206001803
  6. Well it would seem that my generator has gone phut. The voltage reg would seem to be ok. I am working on getting the generator looked at by a retired auto electrician who apparently has an old test bench to do the field and armature tests. In the mean time I am trying to identify exactly what number/version my unit is. The tag is present but illegible. I have the Buick Master Parts List book to refer to. The original generator should have been a 918-B, all replacements (if required) seem to be a 918-E. I see there are some NOS armatures available in the US, some fit the original and some fit the E,F & G versions. BUT HOW do I work out what generator I have. My generator mounts with the flange holes at the bottom. Can somebody please advise some armature dimensions (or a simpler way) etc that might help in my quest.
  7. Thanks guys. I have discovered www.brillman.com they seem to be a manufacturer and look quite promising, their prices seem very competitive. The cable I want seems to be for sale at quite a few places, so it shouldn't be that hard to get, surely. Will have wait and see if I get a reply, fingers crossed. A lot of companies must be making far too much money and don't seem the slightest bit interested in smaller overseas orders.
  8. I wish to change my HT Spark Plug leads to the cloth covered style. I have found a 'suitable' supplier, with the colour I would like. www.magnetoparts.com, Bill Lopoulos, 29 Chard Rd Tyngsboro, MA 01879. The trouble is even though this guy says he sells internationally, I am totally unable to get an email reply from him, which is very frustrating. Cloth covered wire is commonly available in the US, BUT the companies that sell often want minimum dollar amounts and outrageous freight. Can someone recommend a supplier that will sell around 12' of lead and have reasonable freight to New Zealand I know of YnZ's, Rhode Is, etc are there other companies that may be able to help me? I am after the yellow with red & black trace.
  9. Hi neighbour. Thanks Ken but I am going to spray mine the correct green I purchased from Bill Hirsch Auto Cheers Neil
  10. I am in the process of painting my engine. I have blasted the old paint from the spark lead panel and have found the remnants of some plating. It's too far gone to tell if it was chromed or nickel or someotherthing. My first reaction was, oh yeah, somebody has plated this panel, maybe in the 50's or 60's. On closer inspection the plating appears very old, to the point of looking rather original. So todays question is. Is it possible that this particular panel was factory [maybe option] plated from new? I am expecting the experts to say, no way! You never know, 'til you find out. Keep in mind this was an export model. Regards Neil
  11. I have a vacuum gauge near the steering column, under the dash edge. It connected easily into the wipers. I originally installed it for basic engine analysis, but due to the high price of petrol these days, I now use it to drive more economically
  12. My car has the ID plate missing, but I have tracked down a US 1937 Model 47 firewall ID plate. The numbers mostly match my vehicle. This Fisher body number cannot obviously be correct for my vehicle, because the plate is from another vehicle. My question. Is there a tie between body number and chassis number, and does that body number put the body into a certain time slot? Dave C. is very helpful putting number into expected time slots, but the body number is rarely mentioned, Dave can you help again please. The body number I have is 16188.
  13. I feel that I am this weeks self confessed expert on replacing frost, welsh, core plugs, as I replaced my rusted out ones with new brass versions a matter of days ago. My small block plugs were 1 15/16ths, from the master parts list '404169' it appears that this is the same size for the big block as well for years 1936 to 1941, you should be able to get them easily. You will need to remove the manifolds to do the job properly. If the existing plugs are brass and in good shape, then you may be able to get the 2 end plugs out, without removing the manifolds. I used a specially sharpened small cold chisel, the head size being 8mm across. Place your very sharp chisel on a slight angle inside the edge at the bottom of the cup, hammer it until it goes right through the metal. Continue cutting at least half way round like open opening a tin of spagetti (or whatever). Bash the half round flap out of the way a bit. Then using a blunt wider piece of metal hammer inside the cup opposite to the gash you have just cut. With a bit of luck the plug will move inwards (don't panic it can't go far) and spin on its axis, exposing an edge that you can then pry out. The object of this method is avoid hitting the block directly at any stage. Avoid using a hacksaw blade to cut the plug as this can cut into the block. Once you have the 3 out, begin flushing, pick you vehicle spot carefully as rusty muck goes everywhere for ages. I spent about a hour flushing with a hose until I could get the water to run clear. A lot of muck accumulated near the firewall end of the block, you have to pick it out by hand. When all flushed clean the surface the the plugs go into. I used a thin layer of ABRO Eagle Shellac on the mating sufaces. I didn't have the proper drift to drive the plugs in, so used a large 1/2" drive socket that just fitted snuggly inside the cup, and drove them home with ease.
  14. Yes Matt the 37's use split steel rings on the 4 inlet ports as well as the gasket. I will need to reduce the width of my rings to make up for the manifold face machining, which skimmed off about 80 thou. The manifolds were machined as a pair, 1939_Buick has also sent me some options for fitting the manifolds to the head, which were helpfull. The suggested torque of 25 to 30ft/lbs, 30ft/lbs seems to me to be reasonably high, mind you the manifold studs are 3/8. I think I will personally arrive at a final torque at the lower end of the range. Thanks If anyone still has factory tightening specs relating directly to the 1937 engine then I would still be interested.
  15. Thank Allan, received your email with the info. It was exactly what I was after. Cheers Neil.
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