b6vt

This past Memorial Day week end I spent sometime with a friend of mine who is a farmer in central Kansas. He has three Ford trucks, (1) F-3 and (2) F-6 models. The bodies are in great shape. The interiors are intactThe trim parts are intact. They were all flat head six engines. The only rust was surface rust. You could possibly drive the F-3,The F-6s are not driveable and the driver's door is missing on one of the F-6 models. I'm not sure but I believe the cabs on all Fords were pretty much the same except on the Ford heavy trucks. This would be a wonderful opportunity for a person rebuilding a pickup of this vintage. The owner is going to give what he gets out of this vintage tin to his church. Contact me at 816-356-1515 or glorei@kc.rr.com

I have a v 12 that leaks oil from the rear main. The puzzleing thing is that the engine went thru a very expensive overhaul previous to my buying the car. What is the best repair? I recall several posts regarding this problem and have unable to recall the post. Please advise--anyone. thanks. b6vt

What is the proper procedure to remove the old lock cover and replace it with a new one. To look at the replacement it would appear that you shouldn't have to remove the lock. I would appreciate any advice. b6vt

I recently bought a nos or repro LH mirror for my 1948 LC. It is beautiful but quite pricey. Does any one have a RH Mirror that is used but restorable? Also, I am looking for a pair of horns for the same car. Thanks for any help. b6vt

I have 1948 LC coupe. The horns are missing. Were the horns on this model trumpet horns or did HF change this to clam shell horns on this model as an economy move? thanks b6vt

Thank you for the response "Peecher". You have given me a place to start. I did as you suggested and turned the ignition switch to the "on" position--opposite the position where the key may be pulled out of the ignition lock--this is another problem for another day. I placed the volt ohm meter in place to check for any current flow and nothing. I checked the battery to make sure it was charged and hooked up correctly. The battery had a good charge but someone had hooked it up in reverse order--negative grnd-- I corrected this but still no meter response. I chkd if the lights would come one. negative. I am really at a loss. The previous owner had removed the radio to have it repaired. I looked under the dash there were several wires disconnected other than those for the radio, I hooked these back up but to no result. What are your thoughts? Where do I go from here? b6vt

Thank you for your reply on this issue--I am becoming more informed in the use of this forum. It is great to have a source for this accumulated knowledge.b6vt

I was discussing this with a friend recently--would it be a possiblity to create plastic grill parts, chromed of course which would be less expensive than rechroming the pitted pot metal pieces. The possibilities are endless.

I have acquired two Lincoln hubcaps. I believe they are for a Lincoln in the era just past the Zephyr years. The script is in red letters "LINCOLN" with a vertical line thru the script. One of the caps is pristine the other has a small dent. Let me know if anyone needs them. b6vt

I have recently purchased a 1948 LC Coupe. I am not able to start the engine (V12). The previous owner had an 8 volt battery in the car and I am wondering if the extra voltage fried the Ignition resister which reduces the voltage to the distributer or fried the coil. Where is this resister, under the dash or on the firewall--I have been unable to locate it. Before I bought the car a mechanic who was assisting the lady selling the car out of the estate jumped the system by clipping a wire directly from the battery to the coil. I read where this system is awfully sensitive to higher voltage. Is this an expensive fix?