rons49

I painted my Hudson with Chroma/Base. The sale of the paint division to the industrial giant Carlisle was due to the fact that the paint division was only producing 5% of the revenue for DD ( DuPont) and by that the least productive for the company.DD will now free up cash to further expand into the farming production products, its most profitable area. Time Marches On!

Interesting... I would move the cables around and make sure they are clean and tight( snug). If you get a same result, swap the battery. I have a feeling that a cell bridge failed and although you will read 6v, there is not enough potential current to crank the engine or light the headlamps. The fuel gauge uses very little current and one cell would power that up. The place that you purchased the battery can preform a load test. I'm curious... what brand battery?

Wow. Nassau Chrome is still in business( Mineola NY). I recall 22 years ago they could only do small parts,ie, no bumpers etc. Pauls always had a good rep. My hudson was done by Martins of Philadelphia. Gerry Martin is still there as Charger Metals. See Hemmings. BTY, true there are way fewer chrome shops today, but the predominant reason is not the EPA. Although EPA as a factor, does play a part, more reason is supply and demand. Have you noticed, there is little or no chrome on cars ( or anything) any more? Lighter, more durable and cheaper plastics have over taken the use of metals, especially bumpers. So as a result there is less need for plating shops. The EPA may appear to be a demon, but the truth is that organization is an overseer with a purpose... that being, a barrier to unscrupulous shops, that in order to gain an edge on the competition, would just dump their heavy metals into a"pit" out back. Nassau Chrome ( not to infer that decent company) and the many industries in that area sit over a once very polluted area. Long Island draws its water from aquifers( Lloyd aquifer), that were becoming laden with cadmium and other heavy metals. Bethpage/Farmingdale was another hazzard area since the aircraft industry of the 40s and 50s dumped there pollutants. Far from perfect... The EPA is the only thing standing between chaos and life itself. Under the circumstances, my collector cars are secondary, if my water and air are poisoned. Maybe Silent Spring( Rachel Carson) should be mandatory reading in school. Ron Sotardi, Life member

Wow. Nassau Chrome is still in business( Mineola NY). I recall 22 years ago they could only do small parts,ie, no bumpers etc. Pauls always had a good rep. My hudson was done by Martins of Philadelphia. Gerry Martin is still there as Charger Metals. See Hemmings. BTY, true there are way fewer chrome shops today, but the predominant reason is not the EPA. Although EPA as a factor, does play a part, more reason is supply and demand. Have you noticed, there is little or no chrome on cars ( or anything) any more? Lighter, more durable and cheaper plastics have over taken the use of metals, especially bumpers. So as a result there is less need for plating shops. The EPA may appear to be a demon, but the truth is that organization is an overseer with a purpose... that being, a barrier to unscrupulous shops, that in order to gain an edge on the competition, would just dump their heavy metals into a"pit" out back. Nassau Chrome ( not to infer that decent company) and the many industries in that area sit over a once very polluted area. Long Island draws its water from aquifers( Lloyd aquifer), that were becoming laden with cadmium and other heavy metals. Bethpage/Farmingdale was another hazzard area since the aircraft industry of the 40s and 50s dumped there pollutants. Far from perfect... The EPA is the only thing standing between chaos and life itself. Under the circumstances, my collector cars are secondary, if my water and air are poisoned. Maybe Silent Spring( Rachel Carson) should be mandatory reading in school. Ron Sotardi, Life member

Lebaron Bonney makes authentic quality kits for every Model A car. Go on line for further info. They may seem pricey but it is quality. What style( model #) do you have? Coupe, Tudor etc.? Call 'em and find out what the kit will cost. If it's an "open car" ( roadster, phaeton) is the top in need of replacement? Btw, LB can do the seats, but really any decent shop with experience in As can install the Fords interior. You may need new seat springs or wood as well as a headliner ( and wire & padding also). A coupe is less than a Fordor, But without looking close it is difficult to give a cost of labor. There are many "how to" books to explain each step if you are inclined to attempt it your self. Ron

Andy, as a member of the Cadillac Lasalle Club I know which I would go for, but I thought I read that you need a rear seat for the 6109 model( sedan). Before you make a decision, call a few Caddy parts guys such as Cadillac Of the 40s in Las Vegas. Ed will probably have one or know who will. He specializes in 1941 Caddys. Ron

RB thanks for your interest in the AACA. There are several awards that your beautiful Tbird is apparently qualified. Junior Awards( first place) are awarded to any car in class that receives 365 points,or more, out of 400, AND is within 10 points of the highest score in that class. If your car is awarded a First Junior then it moves up in status to a Senior award attempt at 375 pts and then to Grand National at 385 etc. So the competition gets tougher as the awards progress. This is a very quick answer to your lead question. Really though, consider joining The AACA and also a local chapter. You'll be glad you did. BTW, there is another award that your car appears to be a shoo in for, ie., Historical Preservation Of Original Features( HPOF). This is a prestegious award given to vehicles that are original or as close to never touched by restoration. For example deductions would be taken for any upgrades restoration or anything that was not as delivered by the dealer from the factory( as authorized). Example a new shiney paint job is a deduction. By joining up, you have the standards at you finger tips, and an army of well informed members willing to share their knowledge. Ron Sotardi Tucson

A quick reply regarding the Hudson bearings. In 1948 the Hudson 6( 262cu) was redesigned from the old 212cu splasher. The new 6 was a fine engine with full pressure and insert bearings. In 1950 it was destroked to 232 for the new Pacemaker and bored out in 1951 to 308 for the Hornet. The only Hudson engine that remained a splasher was the straight 8- 254cu( produced 'till 1952) , with inserts on the mains , but poured bearings on the rods. Line boring with engine removal is not necessary. Redline was said to be about 4900rpm. Look, these cars are 60 plus years old. they don't handle like a Ferrari and the brakes suck compared to the modern road conditions. Blowing along at speeds over 60 can be a bit of a challenge on the old gals and the other drivers around you. If you love the car, give her some respect, don't ask her for more than she is capable of. These cars are time capsules propelling us back to a less frantic era. Slow down enjoy the time travel. Ron

Matt, you beat me to it. Ron

John, Go on line and look up Model A Restorers Club or Model A Ford Club Of America. Find a local chapter in either ( or both) and speak to a person of contact that is listed. I strongly suggest that you join a Model A Chapter. They are a great group and stage many events. The Model A is a simple car, but only once you learn its quirks. I was in the same position when I bought my 31, I knew auto basics but the A is a whole different thing. Suggest that you by some shop manuals . Les Andrews' mechanical procedures is excellant.

In 1989 I bought a 1931 Ford Dlx Tudor that we still own. In 2006 It won a Marc/Mafca blue ribbon 3rd place( Dallas Tx, 2006) 18 years after it was restored and is an AACA senior.

Faced the same issue with my 1950 Caddy. My feeling is that if a good reproduction is available to go with that, if the price is fair and within your budget. Gas Tank Renue company does a excellent job with a lifetime warranty, But shipping will have to be paid to and from. Is the gas line originally copper? I would go with "conifer" tubing. It is a bit costly but looks like steel, but bends easily like copper, and is rust proof. Copper, nickel & ferrous. The way to go for brake line as well.

Probably yes, if the Electric pump (EP) is a solenoid type. What is your purpose for the pump? What year & make is the car? Frankly, I prefer the 5-8psi models for any engine larger than a 4 cyl. Ron

What do you mean this is not the only vehicle acting this way? If only on one car, I would check fuel pump pressure with a gauge. This is a mechanical pump,right( as opposed to electric)? Sounds as if when you speed up the pump with RPMs the pump begins to suck from the tank, then push to the Carb. That would denote a bad pump or restriction or air is being sucked into the fuel line anywhere from the tank to the carb. But other vehicles as well! What do they have in common? The fuel? Is the fuel old? Does the car idle when warm, and do this under load? One more thing, does this car have a fuel feed back line,ie, a gas filter with a 5/16 nipple on each end and a 1/4 nipple in the middle. This is to return warm fuel back to the tank to cool off the fuel going to the carb to avoid vapor lock/starvation? Ron

Steve, all the above statements are accurate. Someone brought up the tight seating of a Model A. The seats are not adjustable on Fordors and if you are average height and weight for a modern man( 1930 folks were shorter and less in girth) long tours will be a drudge. This is a typical California tourer with overdrive, alternator etc. There are alot of MAFCA chapters near the San Francisco area and they love to go on tours at 55mph+. This is a nice car built apparently for that purpose. I would not recommend a Fordor or rumble seat car if you plan on taking young children. They love to play with handles, and you'll never be at peace. I have a 1931 late Tudor Deluxe it has a sliding seat, which when pushed back, is a joy on long tours. Coupes( Deluxe) also have adjustable seats along with Victorias, as do some other models. If knee and back issues are important to you, consider the cars with sliding seats. Tudors or coupes can have sliders installed. I would advise that you join an AACA chapter near you. I would almost gaurantee some one has a Model A to show you. If the A is for you join MAFCA( Model A Ford Club of America) as well. Ron Sotardi, Tucson

Dave and all, Just purchased a 2012 Malibu LT. It comes with the spare and jack, however that is the upgrade model from the LS, which to get the spare tire, requires a $100 option. The Chevy does have a tire well. So, if trunk space is more important than a bit of exercise in the Arizona summer roll the dice. Usually when negotiating price the tire is a bargaining point. RE. the transmission dipstick: sensors that show low level make the stick somewhat redundant, due to the long periods between service. My 99 Malibu did not have a tranny stick. I agree it is inconvenient to add some fluid( if needed) then release a bit under the car to attain the proper level. Cars must become cheaper and cheaper to attract sales in this economy, and frankly we are car guys and will probably change our own flat. Most folks will not, and call AAA or AARP towing for service. Times... they are a changin'. Ron

Bob, funny you should say that... regarding looking up info or part numbers. The last three times in a month that I looked up parts for an inquiring person, I listed them and was the last person on the thread. As matter of fact, one is pending now. BTW, these were on another site. Ron

Who was the manufacturer for the original radiator cap on the 1950 Plymouths? Was it Stant or AC RC-2. If Stant what is the number? Ron

I have a nice fuel pump that is an AC 9651(stamped on flange). It will fit 51-54 Chrysler V-8 and Desoto V-8, 52-56, also some 56 Plymouths. Check an interchange book. The pump is complete and original, but due to the new gas I would rebuild it with modern seals. It also has the air chamber( looks like a CO2 cartridge). Price is $20+ shipping. Ron Sotardi E-mail rsotardi@yahoo.com Or 520-749-8659 .<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_end -->

I agree that ebay is a pest with all the "fits" junk. It is border line deception. Why don't we all use the buy/ sell section of the AACA website as a first option? No fees and we can assume the folks on the site are responsible car folks. Ron

Tinndn, I too in the last 2 years had Then & Now rebuild 2 AC pumps. The workmanship is excellant for $125 + shipping . Ron

The conversation was regarding adding an electric fuel pump. The small Airtex E-8011 or 8012 come with a small metal filter threaded to the inlet side. I have been told to lose those filters since they leak ( true to my experience) and clog too quickly. I replaced that filter with a clear Fram G-4. I can see if dirt accumulates. Location of the E-pump is by the gas tank even with the seam. An AC glass globe filter is mounted at the carb. Haven't had a problem with starvation since Auto Parts Cellar rebuilt my fuel pump 2 years ago. The issue was that fuel filters must be as small as possible to avoid air bubbles. Warranty for the Airtex is voided if no filter is used. Interesting annalogy. Ron

I frankly did not place much credence in the remark, but I thought that I would ask the experts.

Matt, I plan on being in Wilmington the weekend of June 9th &10th. My dad lives off of N College Rd. Are there any car shows scheduled that weekend? Maybe we could get together. I would like to get some ideas regarding the Tucson Regions proposed open car show in 2013. We have put on many National Meets and a Founders Tour, but this needs some twiking. My Email is rsotardi@yahoo.com, or my Phone is in the AACA roster. Thanks, Ron Sotardi

In a passing conversation with some local car guys, someone stated the larger type " see through" style fuel filters, such as the Fram G-2, are a contributing factor to vapor lock, or at least fuel starvation. Same is true with the 50s type glass bowl AC and Carter as was stated. He claimed that the only filters that should be used are the small thimble style. Is there any truth to this? Any ideas? Ron