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rons49

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Everything posted by rons49

  1. I know that the Hershey Region sponsors the Eastern Fall Meet each year, and I can understand the necessity of having it in the same location each year due to the space needed for the swap meet and show. The show needs a lot of cash to start up and a loss could devastate an Entire Region, or be a enormous profit . My question is, "Does the Hershey Region keep all the profit?" (or fully incur the loss), and is there some reason no other Region hosts the show? Please, this is not a reflection on the National's policy. Other clubs are talking about centralizing their National Meets in the same location each year. I was under the impression that AACA National "helps out" the Hershey Region. How does this work? My Region has put on quite a few Meets over the last 25 years, but always it's first come when requesting the National's permission.
  2. If you go to You Tube and search for old car commercials for Willys/Overland, you will see that the correct pronouncement is "willis".
  3. wow, is that the truth. I have a machinists card with an image of the threads and I match them with the image. Tap & dies may remove too much metal and may render the bolt or thread unusable.
  4. W-O did indeed have the #3 top selling cars in the industry in 1928 with 315,000 vs Chevy with 1,193,212 then Ford with 607,592 Hudson/Essex was fourth with 282,203 just ahead of Pontiac/Oakland. In 1929 Ford took Chevy 1,507,132 to 1,328,605. Hudson sold 300,962 to Willys' 242,000. Of course, Chevy and Ford were lone makes, while the others were combined corporate models. This is one reason why the smaller car companies were subject to a disadvantage of economy of scale... the big get bigger and the small go out of business.
  5. When you get the tester check the temp at the housing and the lower hose to see if there is restriction. Turn on the heater for a second test. The 41 indeed had a pressure cap... A 9lb AC RC-7. A cooling system pressure test may be necessary for later. Leave some space in the top rad tank for expansion. Ron
  6. I agree with Dave, he is right on. There is one thing that he left out. Most collector cars don't drive a whole lot, and therefore, the fuel in their tanks doesn't get rotated enough. It is imperative that when the hot summers start to greet us, the collector car does not have winter formulated fuel in the tank. Winter gas is formulated to vaporize faster in cooler temps( flash off at about 105 f) and that is why old cars fuel starve or flat out vapor lock when a sudden hot day comes around, in the spring. Go on line and find out when the summer gas is first delivered to your area. It's a hassle, but I anticipate how far I plan on driving through the winter months. Then after April 15th, I can start to fill up again in Tucson. In Tucson there is no ethanol during summer months. Ron
  7. Try to ascertain exactly if the smoke( white steam?) is coming from. I would think that a compression check will be necessary, and that will help determine the cause. Check the oil and water level, and for impuities, such as, water in oil or oil in water(Coolant).Possibly the head just needs re torqueing. Could be an intake gasket that causes the engine to shut down by drawing too much air for the mixture. There are other nasty things, but try first things first. Let us know.
  8. Does Your car have twin H? If so check to see if BOTH throttle return springs are there. If only one is left it will pull the throttle closed and you may not notice a difference, until it goes. If both are still there then check the Ebrake , the spring for the mechanical reserve mechanism. If you have a shop manual it is #34 on the illustration or #17 the pedal pull rod hanger spring. It is difficult to judge the length from your picture. ron
  9. Well, # 1 are you planning on showing the car in competitive judging? If so, all Marque clubs such as The WPC & AACA will deduct points for radials. OK, Radials are a better handling tire with shorter stopping distance then bias, & radials won't follow imperfections in the road surface, ie, parallel lines or grooves. IMO, radials are a better performer, EXCEPT for classic cars that were built before the 60s. Here's why : pre WW2 cars rims may not take the stress on cornering. This could be catastrophic as the tire slips off the rim or the wheel cover comes flying off. Probably not... but with a 75 year old steel wheel that's your call. #2, radials are put on cars that are used every day, like 99.9 % of cars on the road. When a radial sits on the same spot for a extended time it tends to weaken the already thin walls. A belt might separate with really bad consequences... like the blow out and body work needed to repair the damage where the steel belts beat the fender well. Radials usually wear out before they dry out due to the every day usage. Bias tires have stronger walls and will loose their flat spot after a few miles of driving, and are better suited to sitting around. Many nations require a date code to judge whether to recycle old tires after a period of time for a reason. I feel bias tires are safer for rarely driven , & slowly driven antiques( and trailers). As a daily driver, well it's your call.
  10. Chris, to further answer your question, the brass unit is solid using a 5/8 wrench or socket to remove. The thread is tapped at 1/2" x20 fine into the head. There are many for sale on Ebay. Just keep soaking it and work it slowly & gently. it will eventually loosen.
  11. Chris,I have a 53 with the cast iron head. A problem with the aluminum head is that the bimetal action that occurs with the brass sensor against the aluminum metal alloy. The two tend to fuse. Try soaking with either Kroil or Liquid Wrench. The best penetrating oil, IMO, is a mix of trans fluid & acetone( Ace hwdr).Continue to apply and attempt to move the sensor with small amounts of torque with a deep well socket. The final solution would be to remove the head, but that will surely open a can of worms with the headbolts and aluminum head. I believe that aluminum should not have torque placed upon it when warm , See removing spark plugs from Corvairs. But, try going to the Classic Car .com site for the Hudson,Essex Terraplanes . I really advise in addition to the AACA, that you join the HET Club. These cars have their own quirks and characteristics. Ron
  12. I don't like tow dollies, except for modern front wheel drive cars & short distances. I am not an expert on Fordomatic, but you can not tow a Hydromatic. They have two pumps and will run dry. I always heard if a car with auto trans can be pushed started you need to get the wheels off the ground. #2: tow dollies have little turn clearance for the long overhangs past the wheel wells. This can result in damage to the fenders on tight turns. #3: Don't tow backwards. The wheels (Front )can turn in any wild direction and won't track in the same direction as the tow vehicle ( caster). Old car steering wheels don't lock and a rope or whatever does not substitute for that. Advice If your tow vehicle can pull a dolly, then it should be capable of a trailer. Trailers can be rented at U-Haul or other locations. Ron
  13. Is this a Model A Ford? The wire to the driver side headlight bucket is on the same side of the radiator shroud. The lenghth of the two pairs of wires for each appliance (headlight driver & horn) are close and about the same length. Did you disconnect ANY wires. From the two appliances the wires disappear into the main harness on the way to the light switch at the end of the steering shaft ( remove the bailing wire to access it), except for one horn wire which picks up battery power at the terminal on the cutout. Problem in those areas or a frayed wire somewhere. Also check the horn terminals inside the cover. Any wire touching the horn ( not insulated ) will ground the horn and blow it. You disturbed something that was about to give you trouble. Advice : If this is a Ford, Get a copy of Les Andrews Model A Ford Mechanics handbook. Ron
  14. Wayne, answer is no. it is a huge empty semi paved lot( parking lot) at the corner of Jefferson And Conner in Detroit. Three years ago the only thing still there was a towering smoke stack with Continental on it,( Engine plant).
  15. I would install it dry. My reason is that if you soak it the plunger will swell and make it more difficult to get into the sleeve( chamber). As soon as the gas hits the oil or silicone, those elements will dilute and be washed into the carb anyway. Silicone sprayed into the chamber will help slide the leather in, that's all.
  16. While in the Army, I was required to investigate a horrific accident on the Clearview Expy in Queens NY. An Army Reserve 2 1/2 ton slammed into the rear of Volkswagen Jetta, instantly incinerating the VW driver who was stopped at a traffic light. It was determined that the cause of the accident was a brake failure due to the rupture of a brake line. The brake lines were Copper. 'nuff said. Copper is easy to bend but suffers from work stress. Think old garden hose under pressure. Recommend Cunifer line also. Easy to work with and used by many foreign manufactures. It won't rust either.
  17. Is it to "fast idle" the engine when cold? That is how my Model A Ford operates. Retard spark, richen fuel mixture, advance the throttle a few clicks, complete circuit( contact), pull out choke, crank over engine. When the engine starts, release the choke and let the engine fast idle for a few moments. OR, an early attempt at cruise control. LOL
  18. I read the same article, Consumer Reports issued it. My take was if it is bad for small engines why is not detrimental to larger ones?
  19. Mice and rats will not nest in a well lighted area. If feasible keep the hood open at least half way, or put a low wattage CFC drop light lamp in the engine. Keep windows closed, but remove locks if the car is stored outside and accessible to kids. I read that mothballs (cyanide) don't help and can be deadly to "wanted" critters. Basically the only critters that will eat mothballs are young children.
  20. If you have never replaced the fuel pump in the past 10 years, or so, then the diaphragm may deteriorate from the ethanol. If the pump is operating well leave it alone. However, in time, the fuel pump may begin to accumulate fuel around the outside edges of the fuel diaphragm. This is "soaking", a sign of failure. Also the pressure may begin to drop causing fuel starvation, which appears to be vapor lock approaching. If the FP is old,rebuild it with modern parts. I like Then & Now Automotive in Weymouth Ma.( on line). After that, check the drivability. The carb and filters my need attention. Ron
  21. Phil, Don't add anything to the fuel at first. If two factors are added, ie, Psi & kerosene, you won't be sure which solved the issue. Fuel today is lighter, ie , vaporizes faster. No way 2-3 Psi will cover drivability issues in big engines, especially with oxygenated winter gas. Bump it to 5 psi, then let it idle. That's when it will flood if it is going to. If it doesn't flood leave it. Say, why does your pressure gauge only go to 5psi? Are you using those horrific dial in type? They are not accurate and have a good chance of leaking.
  22. Rosie, I doubt you are getting vapor lock this time of year in SF. Fuel starvation, yes. What type of electric pump are you running? I presume you have NO mechanical pump??? If you are using a solenoid pump, that is, Airtex type that looks like a brass filter, I had no luck in maintaining fuel pressure at the carbs in my Hudson. Airtex claims 5-8 psi and more than 30gph... forget it. I checked two EP-11s and the psi was below 3.5 at carbs with the pump at the gas tank, BUT a full 6 psi at the outlet at the pump itself. Not enough for big Buick straight eight or a Twin H 308. IMO,They are fine as a helper for a mechanical pump or priming. The good pumps are the Carter Rotary Vanes. I don't like Electric only. Unsafe unless "roll over shutoffs", an so on , are added. Ron
  23. For sale. I have a pair of NOS Trico wiper blades RB 12, with original boxes. These are the shiny stainless style and good for judging. . I only asking $27 + $7 shipping to any where in the lower 48 states, or, any where out side that area for prevailing shipping cost. Ron Sotardi @ rsotardi@yahoo.com or 520-749-8659
  24. Do as Rusty said, but also a bearing might locked up on the bottom end. One other thing, do you have a 195 with the aluminum block & cast iron head? Check with VIN (If a B letter, then it was aluminum, if original) and, or, with a magnet. Warpage of the block/head was notorious on these engines. Soak the cylinders in a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone( Ace Hdwr) for a while & try each day . I believe the trans on the Flash-o-Matic is operated by a vacuum solenoid unit from a tube at the intake manifold.
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