26Willys

Yes, they would have to be ground off. I looked around online and couldn't find anyplace that has grade 8 castellated nuts. I see a lot of guys use the aircraft self locking nuts on Model Ts.

The engine is a 1921 Dodge 4 cylinder. I would think grade 8 would be strong enough?

What have you guys used for connecting rod bolts? Are there bolts for something else that will fit? They are .5-20x2.25. Thanks

Does your crankshaft have the sharp flange behind the rear journal? It's just visible behind the felt in Mike's picture. That is what slings the oil. I have my pan off right now and can get you some pictures if you need them.

No wonder I couldn't find anything on it. I was spelling it wrong! It looks like the acetal gear might be a possibility.

Yes, that is what I have heard about the fiber gears. The old ones were ok, but the new ones aren't. The two Dodge vendors each have a different looking type of fiber gear. Can anyone comment on the durability of these gears. Has anyone used one? Myers has an Actel gear. In the picture it looks like nylon. What is actel? A Google search didn't turn up anything.

I contacted Myers, and they don't have any steel gears. Has anyone used a new fiber gear and can comment on how it has held up?

From reading posts on the www.mtfca.com forum, fiber gears do NOT have a good track record. That's why I'm worried about putting a fiber gear in my Dodge. Ron, all I could find was a fiber or actel gear on Myers' website. I'll contact them and see if they have a metal gear available. Thanks

The original gear is steel. It has too much backlash , and knocks sometimes at low rpm but otherwise it is quiet. While I have it apart for other things I'd like to put a new gear set in it. Has anyone had any trouble with the new fiber gears?

Does anyone know where I could find a new steel cam gear? All I can find is fiber. Thanks

The rear end is completely out of the car. I have the pinion nut off, but I haven't been able to get the pinion gear off. I might try some heat since the gear is junk anyway.

Thanks! This helps a lot. Just to be sure when you say outer nut are you talking about the one towards the rear of the car? How did you get the pinion gear off to get the bearing out?

Thanks for the replies. I didn't try too hard with the punch and hammer. It had right hand threads, and it moves in the correct direction. It feels like the threads are damaged, but I can't see where. Depending on if I can get another retainer, I do have a method that will get this thing out. Thanks for the comments on the website. I haven't updated that thing for about 4 years. I need to get some better pictures without the dust. By the way does anyone know where I would find a good ring and pinion? I already tried Romar. Thanks

I'm taking apart my rear axle to replace a chipped ring and pinion. I have the carrier out, and now I'm trying to get the pinion and driveshaft out. My understanding is that I need to screw the two castle shaped retainers towards the rear of the car. Is this correct? The retainer towards the front of the car will turn but slowly get tighter until it can't be turned even with a punch and hammer. The retainer towards the rear of the car will turn easily. Anyone have any suggestions?

I'm looking for a good working speedometer and oil pressure gauge for a 1921 Dodge. The speedometer is a Johns-Manville model 115h.

1926 Willys-Overland Whippet partially restored. Body has all new wood. No interior. Runs and drives, all lights and gauges work. Comes with extra parts and a set of full sized blueprints. Located in Mt. Solon, VA $6000 wcprops@vt.edu

Here is an more recent picture showing the new top.

It is a 1923 Rumely Oil Pull gasoline/kerosene tractor. This tractor is a model H 16-30 (16hp on the drawbar and 30hp on the belt). The engine is started on gasoline and when warm is switched over to kerosene. Kerosene has a tendency to preignite in a hot engine so the carburetor also has a section with water injection to prevent this. It has a two cylinder engine. The cooling system uses oil instead of water so the engine will run at a higher temperature for burning kerosene. The big box on the front is the radiator, and the exhaust is piped into the top of box and pointed upwards causing air to be pulled in from the bottom and over the radiator. It is lots of fun to drive. Two speeds forward one reverse with a hand clutch and foot brake. Here are a few videos of it on YouTube. The larger models are impressive to see. The E for example is a 30-60hp with a 2 cylinder 1885 cubic inch engine! There are more pictures of tractors and junk on my website below. Sorry for the long post, but I love talking about these things!

What do I like best about it? It is unique. Many people have never heard of a Whippet. That guy on YouTube is me! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Here it is in earlier in the restoration. After some paint Not the best video but here I am driving.

And another

Another picture

Here is my '26 Whippet. Body has all new wood. Just finished painting, and now it needs an interior and top.

Any ideas?

Sorry for the late reply. The stuff I am looking for is a two piece trim. The bottom half is nailed to the wood and the top half snaps over it. It goes around the rear middle half of the car to cover where the metal skins are joined at the wood.