Harold
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Posts posted by Harold
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Before getting rid of those titles, I'd type the serial numbers into Google and see if they are associated with an existing vehicle. You never know what will turn up.
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Red Glass Taillight Lens for 1937-38 Olds and 1939 Chevy & Pontiac
Nice red lens for your late-'30's GM product. It's about 2-1/2" diameter and has number 329 cast into it. According to my research it fits the above vehicles. $15.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Add $1.00 to cover the PayPal fee if needed.
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Red Glass Taillight Lens for 1937-38 Olds and 1939 Chevy & Pontiac
Nice red lens for your late-'30's GM product. It's about 2-1/2" diameter and has number 329 cast into it. According to my research it fits the above vehicles. $15.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Add $1.00 to cover the PayPal fee if needed.
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Nice used glove box door for 1965-66 Fury. Has hinge and arm as shown. Lock not included. $30.00 picked up at Freehold, NJ 07728. If you need shipping let me know your zip code and I'll figure it out.
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Nice used glove box door for 1965-66 Fury. Has hinge and arm as shown. Lock not included. $30.00 picked up at Freehold, NJ 07728. If you need shipping let me know your zip code and I'll figure it out.
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2 hours ago, InsideTrader said:
Rusty, I am in further need of your wisdom. I pulled all of my spark plugs to check gap. They all needed to be closed a little bit but I got them all done except for one. The plug closest to the flywheel looked like it had been hit and the gap was almost completely closed. When I looked in the hole, it looked like it made contact with wherever is under it. The plugs that are in it are rv12yc champions. Those are not what you said they should be and I wonder if my plugs are too long. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on that.
Also, I don’t know how to ask this without sounding like an idiot but where in the heck to I put oil in this engine? Am I overlooking something obvious?
The plug with the closed gap may have been dropped by the installer and not checked prior to being screwed into the cylinder head. This actually happened at a dealership I worked at. The tune-up tech went nuts until he found the plug with the closed gap.
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You may want to double-check the electrical components for voltage configuration. A '51 Dodge came from the factory with a six-volt positive ground electrical system. The airport tug was probably 12 volts or possibly 24V. If 6V, the generator and starter tags have a red background, and 12V had green tags. I don't know what color 24V tags were.
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2 hours ago, 31plymouth said:
Question about NY--NY did not issue titles before 1973. For cars before 1973 ,transfer is done with a signature on the back of the registration.
What happens if someone from a state that requires an actual title wants to buy a car from NY if a title doesn't exist?
Years ago, I was told by NY DMV that they would issue a title for a pre-1973 vehicle if requested. You'd have to pay the titling fee and do whatever other paperwork that was required. A phone call to the Title Bureau in Albany should verify whether they still do this.
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I'd contact the Illinois Department of Motor Vehicles and see what their procedure is. Some states are easier to deal with than others and making a nice impression on the person assisting you can work wonders. Granted, that's more difficult from several states away, but worth a try.
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I sold new Fords in the '80's and we had a 1986 F150 with three on the tree in inventory. One of the younger salesmen had no idea how to drive it.
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3 hours ago, MCatL said:
I am in NY (Staten Island). I don't know of any local car clubs.
I used to live on Staten Island and the DMV was always easy to deal with. I registered several 'paperless' cars with their help. I'd try making a personal visit, explain your situation, and see what they can do for you.
Is there an ID number on the car that you can find? Does it have registration stickers on the windshield? New York registration stickers have had the VIN and plate number printed on them since about 1980, which would help you considerably.
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2 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
It has some type of brush guard on it. The Army scraped many kind of like this one by cutting them in half.
On the DoD surplus auction lists, they would call the cut apart Jeeps the 'residue' of the vehicle.
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Stupid question of the day.....
Do you know for sure that the engine is locked-up? Have you checked for a strong battery and working starter? Can you get a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to see if the crankshaft spins? You can also try turning the engine at the ring gear on the flex plate.
Just my 2 cents' worth.
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NORS 6-Volt Directrol #711 Emergency Hazard Warning Switch with red light-up switch knob. Includes switch, bracket, wiring, and instructions. Flashers are important to warn other drivers of a problem, and can be a real life saver in certain situations. No vintage car should be without one!
$57.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Let me know if you have any questions.
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It's a useful tool but unfortunately it no longer applies to any of my cars.
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Great old accessory item. Over 60 years old since the manufacturer's address has a 'zone number' instead of a 'zip code'. Switch plate is marked 'No. 1', 'No. 2', and 'Both'. Box is shelf worn, switch plate is somewhat dirty, and knob has a smudge on it. $25.00 postpaid in lower 48 states.
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Here's a Sunpro Actron CP9015 Code Scanner for Ford products 1981 to 1995, just out of clean dry storage in my garage. For EEC-IV and MCU systems. It blinks and beeps a code and then you look it up. Includes scanner, manuals, and packaging. Only used a few times. Worked fine when I last used it a number of years ago. Operates on 9V transistor battery (not included). $25.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states.
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Here's a Sunpro Actron CP9015 Code Scanner for Ford products 1981 to 1995, just out of clean dry storage in my garage. For EEC-IV and MCU systems. It blinks and beeps a code and then you look it up. Includes scanner, manuals, and packaging. Only used a few times. Worked fine when I last used it a number of years ago. Operates on 9V transistor battery (not included). $25.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states.
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As mentioned previously, get your title squared away before sinking money into the car.
In New Jersey, you need to run a newspaper ad 3 times to give anyone 'with an interest' the chance to speak out. If nobody pipes up, the State issues a title in your name, after sufficient paperwork is completed. I've never done this in New Jersey but did a few paperless cars when I lived in New York. It's very straightforward in NY, unlike many other states.
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46 minutes ago, TAKerry said:
I liked the episode when Wally bought a car. It was a fixer upper. Ward had a fit that it needed so much work. I think he paid $10 or something for it. Ward ended making a deal to have the scrap guy pick it up and it only cost $15 for the service. In the meantime I think Wally parted it out for something like $20.
That sounds like an episode from 'The Life of Riley'.
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The blue looks good, but I'd tend towards something brighter like a Kelly green or possibly a yellow.
Tractor Supply Company sells equipment enamel that may have a color that appeals to you. They may have color chips that you can use to get a better idea of what their colors look like.
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If you can find a Hollander interchange manual that would tell you which hoods can be used. FWIW, I believe the hood will only interchange with '66-'67 Specials and Skylarks.
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One other thing I do for Facebook Marketplace is to use the 'Buyer Info' button when someone inquires about an item. If their history looks shady they don't get a reply.
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I've passed on a sale several times because the buyer didn't look right. I look for background info on a potential buyer before providing my name and address to receive a check or money order. I also check to see how long the buyer has been associated with the forum. If the potential buyer has been enrolled in the forum for a short time, it's a red flag for me.
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When purchasing an antique car, what if only a “bill of sale” is available?
in General Discussion
Posted
Better bookkeeping of vehicle documentation would cut down tremendously on lost-title drama. One takeaway from this discussion should be that all the paperwork for our vehicles is completely squared away. The location of the documents should also be made known to family and friends to make things easier for them should you check-out of the hotel known as life.