Harold

Before getting rid of those titles, I'd type the serial numbers into Google and see if they are associated with an existing vehicle. You never know what will turn up.

Red Glass Taillight Lens for 1937-38 Olds and 1939 Chevy & Pontiac Nice red lens for your late-'30's GM product. It's about 2-1/2" diameter and has number 329 cast into it. According to my research it fits the above vehicles. $15.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Add $1.00 to cover the PayPal fee if needed.

Red Glass Taillight Lens for 1937-38 Olds and 1939 Chevy & Pontiac Nice red lens for your late-'30's GM product. It's about 2-1/2" diameter and has number 329 cast into it. According to my research it fits the above vehicles. $15.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Add $1.00 to cover the PayPal fee if needed.

Nice used glove box door for 1965-66 Fury. Has hinge and arm as shown. Lock not included. $30.00 picked up at Freehold, NJ 07728. If you need shipping let me know your zip code and I'll figure it out.

Nice used glove box door for 1965-66 Fury. Has hinge and arm as shown. Lock not included. $30.00 picked up at Freehold, NJ 07728. If you need shipping let me know your zip code and I'll figure it out.

The plug with the closed gap may have been dropped by the installer and not checked prior to being screwed into the cylinder head. This actually happened at a dealership I worked at. The tune-up tech went nuts until he found the plug with the closed gap.

You may want to double-check the electrical components for voltage configuration. A '51 Dodge came from the factory with a six-volt positive ground electrical system. The airport tug was probably 12 volts or possibly 24V. If 6V, the generator and starter tags have a red background, and 12V had green tags. I don't know what color 24V tags were.

Years ago, I was told by NY DMV that they would issue a title for a pre-1973 vehicle if requested. You'd have to pay the titling fee and do whatever other paperwork that was required. A phone call to the Title Bureau in Albany should verify whether they still do this.

I'd contact the Illinois Department of Motor Vehicles and see what their procedure is. Some states are easier to deal with than others and making a nice impression on the person assisting you can work wonders. Granted, that's more difficult from several states away, but worth a try.

I sold new Fords in the '80's and we had a 1986 F150 with three on the tree in inventory. One of the younger salesmen had no idea how to drive it.

I used to live on Staten Island and the DMV was always easy to deal with. I registered several 'paperless' cars with their help. I'd try making a personal visit, explain your situation, and see what they can do for you. Is there an ID number on the car that you can find? Does it have registration stickers on the windshield? New York registration stickers have had the VIN and plate number printed on them since about 1980, which would help you considerably.

On the DoD surplus auction lists, they would call the cut apart Jeeps the 'residue' of the vehicle.

Stupid question of the day..... Do you know for sure that the engine is locked-up? Have you checked for a strong battery and working starter? Can you get a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to see if the crankshaft spins? You can also try turning the engine at the ring gear on the flex plate. Just my 2 cents' worth.

NORS 6-Volt Directrol #711 Emergency Hazard Warning Switch with red light-up switch knob. Includes switch, bracket, wiring, and instructions. Flashers are important to warn other drivers of a problem, and can be a real life saver in certain situations. No vintage car should be without one! $57.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states. Let me know if you have any questions.

It's a useful tool but unfortunately it no longer applies to any of my cars.

Great old accessory item. Over 60 years old since the manufacturer's address has a 'zone number' instead of a 'zip code'. Switch plate is marked 'No. 1', 'No. 2', and 'Both'. Box is shelf worn, switch plate is somewhat dirty, and knob has a smudge on it. $25.00 postpaid in lower 48 states.

Here's a Sunpro Actron CP9015 Code Scanner for Ford products 1981 to 1995, just out of clean dry storage in my garage. For EEC-IV and MCU systems. It blinks and beeps a code and then you look it up. Includes scanner, manuals, and packaging. Only used a few times. Worked fine when I last used it a number of years ago. Operates on 9V transistor battery (not included). $25.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states.

Here's a Sunpro Actron CP9015 Code Scanner for Ford products 1981 to 1995, just out of clean dry storage in my garage. For EEC-IV and MCU systems. It blinks and beeps a code and then you look it up. Includes scanner, manuals, and packaging. Only used a few times. Worked fine when I last used it a number of years ago. Operates on 9V transistor battery (not included). $25.00 postpaid in the lower 48 states.

As mentioned previously, get your title squared away before sinking money into the car. In New Jersey, you need to run a newspaper ad 3 times to give anyone 'with an interest' the chance to speak out. If nobody pipes up, the State issues a title in your name, after sufficient paperwork is completed. I've never done this in New Jersey but did a few paperless cars when I lived in New York. It's very straightforward in NY, unlike many other states.

That sounds like an episode from 'The Life of Riley'.

The blue looks good, but I'd tend towards something brighter like a Kelly green or possibly a yellow. Tractor Supply Company sells equipment enamel that may have a color that appeals to you. They may have color chips that you can use to get a better idea of what their colors look like.

If you can find a Hollander interchange manual that would tell you which hoods can be used. FWIW, I believe the hood will only interchange with '66-'67 Specials and Skylarks.

One other thing I do for Facebook Marketplace is to use the 'Buyer Info' button when someone inquires about an item. If their history looks shady they don't get a reply.

I've passed on a sale several times because the buyer didn't look right. I look for background info on a potential buyer before providing my name and address to receive a check or money order. I also check to see how long the buyer has been associated with the forum. If the potential buyer has been enrolled in the forum for a short time, it's a red flag for me.

Back around 1970 my cousin was selling new Dodges and was very proud to have the first Dodge Demon in Brooklyn as his demo. The car had a 'Duster' nameplate on its right front fender instead of the 'Demon' it should have had (came that way from the factory)!