1929Chrysler

Texriv, Try The John Wolf Co. I had the same exact problem with my sending unit and they removed the bottom corroded section and replaced it with a modern unit while maintaining the "original" look on the outside. It works great. John Wolf Co. 440-942-0083 www.antiqueinstrument.com Dan

Restorer32, what do you do when you run into a vehicle that has no service manual and you have no specific material related to that car? For example, Chrysler had no service manuals in the 20's only the owners manual that gives very basic information. I wonder if the dealerships back then had special service manuals only available to them? If they did I'm sure they would be worth a bundle today!! Dan

Dean, It's great to see photos of what you're doing to the body. Any problems you encountered along with as many detailed pictures would be much appreciated as I will be doing the same to my car. This would be great information to have. Thank You Dan

It's my understanding the corks will eventually sink in today's ethonal gas?? Is this correct? I do know that the old corks were coated in shellac which will dissolve in alcohol. In a sense, isn't ethonal a form of alcohol?? If it was me I would remove the shellac and coat with the proper POR product to be on the safe side. Dan

Chris, Sounds like a good inexpensive idea. However, would your homemade filter catch debri once you shut the engine off? What I mean is that the upper radiator hose coming from the engine block is flowing up hill toward the radiator. So in other words, anything that the screen caught would fall back down into the engine from gravity once the engine was turned off. The Gano filter has a resevoir area within the filter tp prevent this from happening. I think it was $30 if I'm not mistaken. What style of honey comb do you have? The style I have is known as the "Auburn" It was only used on Duesenbergs, Packards and certain Chryslers. Lucky me such a rare core. The only place in the world that core is reproduced is in England. With shipping just the core alone cost me $1400.(Not including restoration/re-coring) Most antique radiator shops here in America buy the cores from over there and put a 50% mark-up on the product. It pays to do research. Dan

Let us know if you installed it and it is working properly!!! Dan

ABSOLUTELY you should use a filter in the upper radiator hose to catch engine rust. I don't know what kind of radiator you have but my honey comb radiator became clogged with little chunks of rust that resulted in over heating. VERY expensive lesson in replacing the radiator. I bought the Gano filter. I don't have the info handy but try to Google it. Dan

Dan, It's my understanding you should use a marine type of grease that won't brake down in the coolant. The kind that is waterproof that they use on wheel bearings for boat trailers. Perhaps someone with more knowledge than I could shed additional information. Dan

If restoring however, I would definetly coat with some kind of protectant. Especially against rot and wood eating critters!! Dan

That mat is awesome!! I have never known an original floor mat covering to actually have the word Chrysler on it! Has anyone else seen an original or reproduction with Chrysler on it?!?! You may have something special there. If there are no reproductions available I would definetly look into getting that reproduced. I'm sure other people would be interested in sharing the cost especially if it fit their car. I know I would be. Dan

Hi Dean, I love watching this car come together. You're really doing a nice job! What all do you plan on doing to the body?? I wish I had half your skills. Not that I'm getting nosey or anything.. OK... I am getting nosey. Do you mind sharing how much money you have in the project so far and how much you think you'll have in when it's all finished? Dan

Hi Tim, I would be very interested myself. If you can't post it here, can you send it to me? dspalber@yahoo.com Do you know any information on radios for the model 65? Thank You Dan

Hi Dana, I sent you a private message. Did you get it? Dan dspalber@yahoo.com

How much do you want for it? Dan

If you're really worried about the shellac I would get rid of it first. Shellac is made from a certain bug and dissolves very easily in denatured alcahol. Soak it for a few minutes in the denatured alcahol. The shellac will dissolve very easy. Then rinse it again in another clean bath of the alcahol, let it thoroughly dry, (few days maybe)then coat it with the appropriate POR product. It should be fine. Dan

POR 15 makes a gas tank sealant that is impervious to gas. You can buy it in the pint size. I coated my cork float in my fuel canister and it has worked like a dream with no problem. Dan

I agree with Harry on the vacumm canister. I don't think you would get vapor lock either. Just go back and look at my posts where I thought I had vapor lock problems. My fuel lines run right next to the exhaust manifold and because of my current radiator problem my car runs extremely hot. Turns out it wasn't vaporlock and the old canister runs just like she was designed to do! But like you said... It's your car. Do what you want. Dan

Harry, In regards to your instument cluster restoration. There is a company close to me here in Cleveland called the John Wolf Co. I had the pleasure of visiting his shop last year when I had him rebuild my fuel sending unit.I saw first hand his work. It was absolutely breathtaking! He gave me a tour and not only does he rebuild the inner workings of the unit, he also restores the face to look better than new. Give them a try: John Wolf Co. 440-942-0083 www.antiqueinstrument.com Dan

Harry, Did you replicate the wood yourself or did you pay someone to do it? Dan

POR 15 makes a gastank sealer that is impervious to gasoline. They sell it in different sizes. I bought a pint for my float and it worked perfect. Is your existing float cork or brass? If it's brass fill up your sink and put it in water to see if any bubbles comes out (indicating leaks) If it leaks, get the water out first get a small torch and on LOW flame make the repair with solder. No sealant needed after repairs. If it's cork, first see if it floats in water! If it does coat it with the gas tank sealant. If it doesn't float it should be easy enough to make a new one. Just make sure the new float is at the same height as the old one. Dan

I had heard one time that antique auto museums put aircraft fuel in their autos because of how long they sit without being run. Is this true? I believe I was told this is because it would prevent varnish build up in the gas and the fact that there is no ethanol in it. Is there any truth to this and if it were that good for their cars how easily would it be to obtain aircraft fuel for our cars? Thanks Dan

I am in Cleveland, Ohio Thanks Dan

ex98thdr.. I was down that road last year with the coil working OK when cold and when hot experianced the same problems you described. I was lucky to find an N.O.S. coil to solve the problem. Half the fun with these old cars are trying to figure them out. Anyway, thanks to everyone's suggestions out there. I really appreciate your help! Dan

Mark, Where is the best place to get the graphoil packing? Thanks Dan

Well, I figured out my problem. I ran the car just as earlier described. After a good 45 minutes of idling on an even hotter day than the first time, nothing happened!! I was begining to think my vapor theory was all wrong. Which it was. FINALLY the car began to sputter and stall. Right away I shut off the glass bowl valve and checked the float level in the carb. It was low. I worked my way up to the outer fuel canisterand shined a flash light down and could see a piece of dirt obstructing the flow to the glass bowl. Apparently, the piece of dirt would float up out of the way when the car was shut off which would explain why it would start right back up. Any way, I cleaned the canister out, re-installed the inner canister and ran it for an additional 45 minutes with no problems. No vapor lock today!! I have what's called a red head which is a high compression head. That along with my radiator problems made me sure to believe it was vapor lock. Had fun learning about it anyway!! Dan