1929Chrysler

1930.. If my memory serves me correctly on the Kingston, the reason for the springs between the lid and the inner canister is to stop ratteling from vibration. As you know, there is nothing mechanical holding the inner tank inside the outer tank other than friction between the two tanks and the fuel lines that also help to hold it in place. If the inner tank were to "ride up" the outer tank during normal driving and vibration from the road, the lid (even though the fittings are tight) would have play between the fittings and inner tank causing ratteling. My fittings by the way are identical to yours. Do you know where I can find an original A/C sediment bowl as the one I have is not? The Stewart manual that I have was downloaded from a link that someone inserted in one of the threads here. I'm trying to find it. Someone was having problems with there Stewart canister and that manual was recommended. As I am not that well versed in computers, I may have to photo copy what I have and mail it to you. I would still appreciate the info you have regarding the '29 Chrysler 65 and the Kingston. Thanks Dan

1930, Thank you so much for the information! I would definetly love to have a copy of anything you have!! My e-mail is 1929chrysler@att.net. I will give a speculated guess why you have seen so many Stewarts on the DA rather than the original Kingston. I have a manual for the Stewart Warner and on the front cover it goes on to brag "Now used as standard equipment by OVER 90 percent of American automobile manufacturers". Perhaps over the years when people needed a replacement fuel canister they went with the most widely available Stewart. If that's the case looks like we might have a rarity on our hands. The Kingston is so simple too. Very few parts compared to the Stewart and it works flawlessly! Thanks again Dan

You gentlemen seem to be fairly knowledgable about what canister came with the DA. My'29 Chrysler model 65 has the Kingston in it. Any one know if the Kingston was standard or the Stewart? Thanks Dan

Very nice Ken.. Can you explain how your process works? How do you get the paint only in the recessed areas and not the protruding? Thanks Dan

That's a really great picture of the dog. Too bad that old car takes up most of the picture!!! Dan

I've seen the same stamping on some of my Chrysler parts. I would be interested myself. Dan

Maybe you have a gas leak? I don't know exactly what gas mileage my car gets but the '29 was completely empty and I put a gallon of gas in the tank and drove it home which was just about ten miles with gas to spare. I'm curious to see what others have to say about their gas mileage. Dan

Mikz..Are you sure the the gold isn't just white that has yellowed over time? Did you try cleaning up the text and ovals to see if it really is gold? I can't imagine they would be different than the regular 4 door sedan but I have been known to be wrong once before! If the Ovals are white there is a good chance I can get you those. As for the text you might want to try the john Wolf Co. at antiqueinstrument.com. Dan

Dave, What did your '29 Chrysler roadster have for a floor covering if it wasn't carpet? Do you have original floor mats? Dan

Tim,for $15,000 I think I would make myself learn how to do upholstry before I would spend that!! I'm going to need to get my car done too. Please let us know if you find some one reasonable as I am in Ohio too. Dan

So what would you all suggest for rubber that is cracked? I don't know the proper name for it but it is the rubber that sits on top of the leaf springs that acts like a bounce cusion I guess? What is the proper name for this? In any case, over all the rubber is in excellent condition except for being hard and having some cracks in it. Next to impossible to duplicate the shape but would like to take care of the cracks. Thanks in advance. Dan

Can't tell by the picture. Is that ignition face you are holding wood grained? The 65 roadster must be different than the 65 4 door sedan. The sedan lettering is white with silver. Dan

You will be opening up a can of worms (not to mention leaks) if you apply heat to that radiator. Unless you plan on replacing it, I wouldn't do it. Dan

Did you find the proper adapter to do a compression test? If so, what were the results?? I think it's an important question to answer. Dan

Just wanted to make a comment on Friartuck's good work on his articles of tips on restoration. I wish every craftsmen took the time to post this type of information. We would all benefit. Thanks Chris for the info. Dan

some one at Coker tire could probably help you. Dan

To add to Pete's comment on the vacuum canister as compared to the electric fuel pump and trust me when I tell you, I am no expert on the subject but I think it is worth mentioning. From what I understand the electric fuel pump delivers a constant degree of fuel pressure to the carb much greater than gravity feed for which the system and carb was designed. If by some rare chance a leak of some sort develops after the float in the carburetor is no longer calling for gas and the constant pressure from the electric fuel pump continues to pump gas through the leak and it ignites on a hot manifold or however, you basically have an endless supply of fuel to an out of control fire. How do you extinguish that type of fire with raw fuel continuously feeding the fire? I have the fuel canister gravity system and had problems at first but after working out the bugs it runs flawlessly and plus it's original! The majority of vacuum canister owners swear by their reliability. I only mention my concern because the last thing I would want to see is a first class restoration destroyed by fire. Dan

Mark, For us dumb folks that don't know that much about engine performance (At least me)can you explain how piston rings can change the idle? I get the WD-40 part. Always trying to learn something new. Thanks Dan

Thanks for the explanation Bob.. How far back do they make these conversion kits? Do they make any for 1929 Chrysler's? Thanks Dan

Please excuse my ignorance and lack of knowledge but can some one please explain to me what electronic ignition is and how it compares to the older systems? Thank You Dan

I agree with platt. Dan

At the very least after your done thoroughly cleaning and reparing it, I would definetly seal it to prevent any more rust. A few years ago I had a radiator shop RENU my gas tank. (gastankrenu.com) They basically clean the inside of the tank and apply a sealer that is impervious to gasoline. they also seal the outside as well. Four years later the tank is still brand new with no rust. At that time I think the cost was $250. If I were to do it today, to save some money, I would consider using a product made from POR-15 called "U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer". I used it to seal my cork floats and it worked great. Dan

I suppose if the dash is going to be exposed to the exterior elements of the weather shellac would be out of the question. I have no experiance with marine varnish but it might not be a bad idea to experiment with a scrap piece of walnut and apply the marine varnish and see if you can get the same good looking results as with the other finishes. Dan

polyurethane is the most durable but the most difficult to rub out to get that professional look and it is the most difficult to repair if scratches get into it. Shellac is pretty easy to work with and you can rub it out easily to look great and is easy to repair but is not as durable as the polyurethane. It will also add a "warmth" to the color of the walnut as long as you don't use the bleached Shellac. Dan

Now I understand. Thank you guys. Can someone tell me where I can get a replacement thermostat for my car? The original was stuck closed which is why I took it out to begin with. I know there are different temperature thermostats too. Based on my car and the type of weather I drive in what would you recommend? If all else fails, I guess i'll try the washer trick. Thank you all again. Dan