VICRUSSO

I have seen many a balast resistor that worked cold, but opened after heated up. As far as the pick up coil, yeah your probably right, but in the opening post its kind of vague as to even the exact problem being experienced. Also 1973 had a ton of problems with the ignition switch to main harness connector being burnt causing the same problem. Respectfully speaking, I like to associate with the exact problem before giving advice.

Mopar early electronic ignition systems did "sometimes" have intermitent problems. Your post is a little unclear. What happens after the 10 - 15 minutes? Does it stall, if so does it start right up immediately or do you have to wait a while.

Unleaded fuels contain chemical aromatics that take the place of the lead. These aromatics are used to cool and lubricate the valves.

I just did a quick search in Ebay. There are 5 or 6 seperate auctions for old Mopar vacuum advance units. All of them are from the same seller, you may want to contact him, he can probably help you. Log onto ebay, click the "BUY" button and just put vacuum advance in the search box. Good luck on your African Enduro Race, it sounds pretty cool.

Wow, I never seen one, but I would love to know what the result is. Any more pics?

Jeff: Let me know the results of the vacuum and 10 pump test. Vic

Sounds like your problem revolves around the booster and or vacuum. Make sure you have direct manifold vacuum, (minimum 17 inches), next make sure your check valve is working correctly. To check your booster, with the engine off pump your brake pedal about 10 times, then holding the brake pedal down, start the engine the pedal should go down about 1/2 inch more. You say you replaced the booster with a different type. The adjustment on the booster rod is critical, if not adjusted properly you could either be (rod too long)riding the brakes or if to short you would not have the vacuum assist.

Tim, Thank You. My email is busbuis@aol.com

If this helps I once owned a 1929 Model 70 and it had a down draft carb. I can not swear to it but I think they all had down drafts. Just out of curiosity, would you be able to attach a picture of this car? I sold my 29 back in 1974 or maybe 75. I`ve been kicking myself since. I have been all over the internet looking for my old car but have not had any luck. Thank You Vic

I definatly would not use synthetic oil in that motor. Synthetic oil technology was developed for late model engines and drive trains with tighter clearances and newer types of metals. Synthetic oils would probably blow right past your rings and out your exhaust. For me the only engine oil I ever use is 20/50. I have used this in every vehicle I have owned that was older than the mid 1980`s and I have never lost an engine.