Dandy Dave

I takes a bath once a month whether I needs it or not. 😉 More often when the wife's around. 😁 I even shaves when the whiskers start itchen, or the wife say's they scratch when we're kissing. 🥰

You and I both Ed. I guess that makes us the 1% of 1% on the other end of the scale. I'm not going to wash off my 25 White either. I've seen enough shiny chrome and polish. Give me the ones that are true barn finds or right off of the old farm hedge row and show the crowd how to make it sing and run reliably. We are a rare breed.

I was behind a pickup truck a few days ago and these dangly things were hanging underneath that inferred it was a male. I think a pair of those gold plated would be about right for the Biggest Trophy. 😜

These were a common accessory filter right up into the 1950's and early 1960's. I've also seen these on vintage farm and construction equipment. Be sure the spring is still inside that acts as a by pass valve should the filter become plugged. In fact it will not work at all without it as the oil will flow around the filter and right out though the bottom. Unfortunately many old timers did not understand why the spring was there and did not reinstall it so many are found missing. Blow some air through the bottom hole and you will find the cross hole or holes that feeds it. Look here and this should help you understand the way it works. https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/298125/

I have an owners manual around here somewhere for one of those.

It's winter and too cold. All of you have heard of The Don. Many of my Italian friends around here call me the Dom. As I drive up the drive way to some broken down old and tired mechanical thing I can hear them on my approach. Aaahhh- Dave La Mechanica. Si. La Dave Mechanica comea. Fix da great and powerful Iron Buda for me Dom a Dave La Mechanica. Some think I'm some sort of god but I'm really nothing but a D-O-M, Dirty Old Mechanic. My Wife says everything about mechanics is Dirty. But that's another story. 🙃

Agree that the mag is only showing which slot fires fires first-second-third-and fourth in its own rotation. To make more sense out or it inside the cap would look like this photo.

Sorry to hear that. The DU4 on my White Truck don't dodo there either. Is it suppose to??? 🙃

The two most common firing orders are 1-2-4-3, and 1-3-4-2. put some tissue paper over the cylinder spark plug holes and see which moves first while hand cranking. Then you know for sure.

Agree that it is a great Idea. A bit far for me to just drive on over but I'll be there in spirit. 🙂

A little antique auto related stand up Comedy.

Here it is jacked up. Just finished replacing all the brake lines with Nickel Copper line. Replaced all the brake hoses also. The lines that run to the master cylinder are a little tight to deal with but I got them replaced. I'll take some photos later of what I'm talking about.

Seems to me the one at the GM Heritage Center has 37" rims. I have a rim out in the barn. Does that mean I can build a fake from it? I got it thinking it was a 36" that would fit my 1915 Buick. After getting it I found it was a 37" Baker rim.

That auction house is about a mile across the fields from the farm here. Mike Fallon is the owner. Use to be Folgers Auction when I was a young lad.

Here's the area I had to grind away to give the new shoes enough clearance to fit and work correctly. The edge on the tip is just enough to hold the shoes out too far and not have them center correctly. Before and after photos. Hope this info may help others out in the future. Like my old Buddy Brian use to say. "Repro parts from the land of nearly right."

Been going though the wife's 59 Morris Minor and found a problem with the new reproduction wheel cylinders. Figured I would post it here as others may have run into this and have not known how to correct it. The castings have a little extra meat on them that prevents the shoes from centering in the drums like they should. I am replacing them because the right side the cylinders were seized. Also the old shoes had some chunks out of them. Cleaned and packed the wheel bearings while I was at it. The old wheel seals were junk so I replaced them. Here's the National Seal part number for those. They fit and work perfect. 471192. Second photo is of the original and new wheel cylinder. These have two singles on each side. Second and third photo shows the original Wheel cylinder problem area on the old wheel cylinder with the new cylinder in the back ground of photo 2. More to come.

There is one early Buick engine model that had the valves in the block. It is an inline 4 Cylinder. Very few built. Very rare. I saw one at the 100th Anniversary of GM Celebration in Flint in 2008. Looking in the Standard Catalog of Buick a Model 5 is listed in 1908 and this model had a "T" head engine. It would have had two cams, and valves in the block on both sides. 255 CID. 30 HP. This engine was introduced in late 1906 as an 07 year. Models were D,S,H, and K. Continued on in 09 as a model 6A. 1910 "T" head continued as a model 19. Dropped in 1911. Look here to see one of these engines. https://cars.bonhams.com/auction/19680/lot/325/1908-buick-model-s-tourabout-chassis-no-1199/

An American Bosch DU-4 would be a good choice. You do need to know the rotation of your rag joint and get a mag set up for that rotation. If driven directly off of the cam it will be opposite the way the engine cranks. If off of a third gear, which is quite common, then the rotation will be the same as the direction of the hand crank. Most engines turn clock wise as you crank from the front. A rare few crank counter clockwise. Also it will be good to measure the height of mag drive to the center of the rag joint drive to be sure the mag matches. Here's a DU-4 for you to look at. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325682971902?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1cFHR83osSTms27ecww_Qnw49&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=325682971902&targetid=1644837435323&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9004618&poi=&campaignid=20394414698&mkgroupid=153052395833&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-1644837435323&abcId=9317284&merchantid=5303548995&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2PSvBhDjARIsAKc2cgPq9wK6CB4A1gJgnbfx0NeSDTxQtp4jCTN4Izw-kiEtQgvtxNddRzAaAqgwEALw_wcB

An old long since passed friend told me his dad bought one of those for his mother to drive. He remembered riding in it in his teens. He said she hated that transmission.

Agree that a washer underneath the post that holds the arm should bring it up into alignment. Also, put a dab of grease on the tang where it bumps on the commutator. This keeps it from wearing out prematurely.

Thanks. I did not know that. 1915 Plates cost plenty to get a set with a good usable number.

At doubles as a shift stick. 😃

Up here in the hills a '32 means one of them there 5 window ford coupes. Conversation goes, Got me a '32 5 winder. Gots a 350 cheby with a 9" ford posi. Hurst 4 speed tranny. Holly 4 barrel n crager sliks. Custem paint N leather cow hide seats. I prefers Holsteins fer cattle. Them Jerseys is fine but they aint milkin like a Holstein.

Mark's Magneto Service in Colchester CT. If this fellow can't do it, no one can. 860-537-0376

Not a common mag. This unit makes it's own power to provide a spark. DO NOT hook it to a battery. You will burn out the windings in seconds if they are still any good. Usually these old mags need a good cleaning by someone that knows what they are doing. Condensers are usually bad just from age. The lug pointed to in the photo is where a wire to a switch that grounds the mag out to stop the engine would go. If the mag has any spark you will be able to see it by hooking some sparks plugs to it and grounding the bases out with the mag in a vice. You will have to see which way it spins by watching the way the rag joint turns while cranking the motor. Also the points usually need cleaning with some very fine emery cloth as they oxidize with time. If your unsure of what I'm writing here, get an expert.