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Posts posted by Brian_Heil

  1. Tried the Teflon route. Didn’t work as well as the correct graphite rope with the ends cut on a 45 and overlapped. 

    Does it leak ever so often.  Yep.  If it drips  more than a couple at a lunch stop then the packing nut is due for a snug.  I’m talking a 1/16 of a turn.  It lubricates too.  Something that scored bushing was much in need of. 

    • Like 4
  2. This is a small screw with part of the shank not threaded and a small spring is held under the head.  Tighten it down until the threads stop and the spring is slightly compressed.


    Sorry I don’t have one or have yet to find one in my stash. 



    • Like 1
  3. Starter/Generators




    Rocker Pedestals

    Rocker Shafts




    Cam Gears

    Cam Covers

    Fan Supports






    Water Pumps



    Mickey Mouse Gas Cap

    Starter Linkage

    Choke Linkage

    Brake Rods w/ Front Cross Shaft

    Side Covers


    PM me as I probably have what you need. 




    • Like 1
  4. Did the engine builders provide a build sheet?  A good builder has a standard one. Ring end gaps, bores, journals, pistons, ring thickness, piston groove, and the list goes on … all at several locations on every hole and every journal?  I read a dozen a week and had to sign every one for my parts when we were building the 3800 prototypes. And the math that notes the clearances should be built into the sheet.  If not, did they keep theirs?  If there isn’t one, I’d ask why. 

    • Like 1
  5. 4 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

    I did an experiment. I took the lid off the carburetor bowl to see how long it takes for fuel to flow in. 


    1. 20 seconds for empty carburetor bowl to fill when you open the valve on the vacuum tank

    2. 4 seconds for extra gas to the bowl, when you push the float down (as the tickler does)


    Good to know. Press tickler for 4 seconds to start.

    This would be dependent on how much fuel was in the vacuum tank when you started the trial. 

    • Like 1
  6. Advance.  Now there is something they all like with today’s gas having twice the octane of fuel back in the day. 

    The reason the compression is ~4.5:1 and the factory spark setting is so near TDC is because that’s all the fuel could tolerate before it knocked. 

    I’ve been running my base timing 14 degrees more advanced than factory spec for 25 years and 40,000+ miles. My advance lever never gets moved, it stays full advanced always. 

    Make sure your advance weights are also doing their job and if you have a vacuum advance, it too.  

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  7. Choke and cars. They’re all different.  

    Use the choke on my 1923 (other than on a frosty morning cold start) and it will flood in seconds.  Go inside and have another coffee if you use it on a summer day, cold start or hot start.  You just earned a 15 minute delay. 

    We learn each car’s personality. 

    My car starts best in the summer with the throttle lever down a couple inches and no choke.  It took a while to learn this. 

    They’re all different. 

    • Like 4
  8. I had the little spring plunger drop out of the distributor cap once.  Found the little devil and spring too.


    Had the points rubbing block break off on NOS points.  No point gap.  Most NOS points out there for sale have this same issue.  JB Weld 25 years and counting to re-attach.


    Failed external ballast resistor.  Found it sparking in the dark.  Hit and miss running.


    Dirty combination switch contacts.


    Cooked a 6v battery because I could not turn my starter generator down low enough after it got re-built.  I now run my halogen spotlight to get my net charge down to 1 amp down the road.


    All of this on my 1923.  I share it to let you know, you are not alone.  Rather, you are enjoying your initiation to the Buick PWD Fraternity.

    • Like 4
  9. I continue to struggle with a cheap foreign twist knob battery disconnect switch.  If this thing is not really tight, the motor will crank but there is not enough voltage left to fire the ignition.  I've proven it to myself and have a knife switch battery cutoff I need to yet install.


    Long story but on 6v systems, check your connections and grounds.  You need all 6v.

  10. Happy Birthday Mabel!

    I found an envelope with a name and address on it in my 1923 with an early 1980s post mark


    I contacted the person early in my ownership ~1997 and they sent a large envelope of pictures of the car unrestored in the late 1970s he had taken.   He and the car were in the Boston area then. He owned it for a short period

    Who did the cosmetic restoration after him is a mystery. He had no info on who he sold it to or bought it from. 


    The car ended up in a Kruse auction cosmetically restored and the gentleman I bought it from in New Hampshire got it at the auction or from a flipper who got it at the auction. Anyway, Kruse said they woukd not do searches of auction history. 

    The car still sports it’s unique radiator ornament and a Manhattan NY Buick dealer  etched plate with 4 digit phone numbers and contact information on the front passenger toe board. I believe the plate to be original to the car. 


    • Like 4
  11. On 8/3/2021 at 8:30 PM, gward1211 said:

    Perhaps I didn't explain it well.  Double shuffling going up a hill is fine and I can generally do it without a crash.  However, already travelling slow in top gear, by the time I double shuffle into 2nd, the forward motion has almost stopped and is too slow for second (a pretty steep hill).  This is not a flywheel problem.

    The other situation I encounter is when going up a not so steep hill at higher revs in a low gear, when the time comes and you think you can change up, in waiting for the engine to slow down to get into a higher gear, a lot of the speed has washed off and becomes too slow for the higher gear.  This is the  flywheel problem I had in mind when I asked about lightening the flywheel.

    Kind regards



    Anticipate the vehicle’s response and downshift sooner. Problem solved. 

    • Like 1
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