tom_in_nh

It may have been a coupe from the mid to late thirties. Does any one have Old Cars Weekly saved from that time frame? Thanks again.

Back in 1999 - 2002 timeframe, I was at Hershey and spotted a white LaSalle that had been converted to steam power. I remember that it was missing a door. My memory cells need a boost here - does anyone know of this setup? It was on a trailer and had quite the network of plumbing under it....one of those times that a camera was not around. I also remember it being advertised in the Old Cars Weekly publication for awhile, I believe asking price was in the 15-18K range. Thanks.

Find a machinist to make them. Will be expensive, but it will roll the project along. If you are in southern NH, come on by - I will make 'em up for you - I enjoy helping other old car nuts. Tom

Use kerosene here, with a home heating replacement type cartridge filter setup. Works great and cheap to operate. Good luck.

I have had that problem before, using new ball joints from Rare Parts Company. I just ended up bending a longer cotter pin to fit into the castle nuts slot. Clients vehicle still checks out OK - has not loosened up. I can't stand aftermarket rubbish! Even junk is still made in the USA....

Great job, Herm. How do you put the oil grooves back on the bearings? Back in the steam era - it was done by hand ( hammer and chisel ). Thanks, Tom

Dave, I am sure you will do just fine. Too bad I did not live closer to you, I would help you for free. Anyways, if you have any trouble - just holler and all of us here will help. How bad is your seal leaking? Another tip - some seals are of the leather type - you may have to soak it in gear oil prior to installation. Just be aware that it will have a residual drip, after replacement, - not necessarily a leak. Good luck.

Easy enough to do. Mark the pinion nut and the visible end of the pinion shaft via prick punch, white paint marker, etc. Slip on the socket and mark that inline with the previous marks. Slowly loosen nut with an impact gun, watching the number of turns needed to remove it. On a Ford rear axle from the fifties, it can be 10 and a half turns. Reverse procedure when installing. Good luck.

Is it possible to add an inline sight glass for adjustment / maintenance purposes?

Nothing wrong with your plan, I would do the same.... Good luck. Tom

Looking for a carb for a 1948 Buick Super. Thanks, Tom

Need it for a 1948 Buick Super. Thanks, Tom

Also check the backing plate, I have seen deep grooves worn, where boss contacts the shoe. Check everything closely...eighty-two year old vehicle. Good luck, Tom

I would focus on that gauge and/or sending unit. Good luck.

Great link, Jon. Any idea what kind of carburetor is on a 1905 Franklin? I recall that the float was massive - had to have been around 3.5" in diameter. Those were the days in which I wish I had a foresight to use a camera...sigh...grumble. Tom

Thank you Bob and Randy. Tom

Looking for parts for my 1948 Buick Super 2 door. Sure would help if I had the factory part numbers, hence my need for this manual. Thanks, Tom

It is possible that the harmonic dampener separated at the rubber. It is safe to assume that the timing chain did not break.

Broken bolts are inevitable with the old girls... Become friendly with a machinist. Have a jig made with drill bushings to help guide in removal. Another way is to weld a nut on any broken bolts. Heat is your friend here. Good luck.

Take the drip pan with you? Perhaps custom make a foldable unit to store away in trunk, after wiping, of course.

Buy a Mohawk brand. In my opinion, they are the best. Made in USA. Tom

I agree that the most probable cause is lack of prime for the carburetor. I would like to add that the ignition points could be oxidized if you have no spark. Good luck and let us know what happened. Tom

I agree that Bob is on to something, check the vacuum circuit.

Stay away from Arthur Gould - I have personally installed two rebuilt water pumps that they had their hands on. One was a Packard from late thirties - internal gasket misalignment. No big deal to disassemble and realign. Should not have had to do that, though. That was approximately six years ago. More recently (three months ago) was a late sixties Vette in which the rear plate had a cork seal that had no sealer - still drips when cold to this day. Both customers overpaid, in my opinion, for shoddy workmanship by these shoemakers. I understand that the original Gould sold out to the present owners? Can anyone confirm?

I am interested, how much shipped to 03038? Thanks, Tom