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Everything posted by peter_smith

  1. zazothex. Have you renewed the rotor, or are you using the old original one, this stuff deteriorates and breaks down over the years, and your spark could be going straight through to the steel shaft that it mounts on, you can easily test for this, but you need your distibutor on the bench with the coil removed. rig up a battery, coil, and separate distributor to provide some good sparks, use this to test the rotor to see if it is leaking to earth, with the front slipring connected to the coil of your setup, when you rotate the test distributor you should only have a spark coming from the contact arm for that slipring, and nothing coming from the other arm or slipring, if there is no, or very weak spark from the arm, the rotor is leaking down to earth, test the other slipring in the same way. If this is the problem, suggest you have the rotor remanufactured with modern material (boos Herrel) rather than buy new old stock, (even if it,s never been used) which may have deteriorated in the same way on the shelf. Hope this helps. Peter Smith
  2. Cecil Thats a realy nice interior, wish mine was as good, as you say the switch and bracket are different to the 37, Shame. Regards Peter Smith UK
  3. Schoppi. The switch checks out OK, let me know if you want it. Regards Peter Smith peternedsmith@tiscali.co.uk
  4. Schoppi Is it just the switch you need, or the housing that clamps to the column as well? I have both, for a 37, which I think is the same, (can someone confirm?) I will dig them out tomorrow, and test the switch to make sure it's OK. Regards Peter Smith UK
  5. Cecil. Just wondering, did you keep putting the wedding off till the car was finished????? Cheers and all the best Peter Smith UK
  6. Dave Just a word of caution, I think all the rotella range of oils are heavy duty diesel engine detergent oils, i.e. they clean all the crap out of the engine and carry it around in the oil. Not a problem if you are starting out with a rebuilt completely clean engine, I use 15/40 turbo diesel in mine, but it's been stripped and cleaned out. An old worn engine will have deposits of sludge everywhere, the oil might strip this off and dump it in the oil pan blocking the oil pump strainer, causing expensive noises. But as I say not a problem in a clean engine. Regards Peter Smith UK
  7. Gene, last time I did mine, I used 4x3"x 5/16" NC bolts, but the engine was out of the car, if yours is in the car, and tight for space, you might get away with 2". Regards Peter Smith UK
  8. Jeff, Just another thought on your problem with the car, has the distributor rotor been replaced with a new one? i.e. brand new, not a new old stock item, The originals are very prone to developing cracks, and can leak the spark away to the other slip ring, or to earth via the drive spindle, they can perform perfectly when cold, but as soon as they start to warm up and expand a bit, that's when the problem starts. To test for this. If you have the distributor off the car with the coils removed, set the body of the distributor 3/8" from your bench vise. Find yourself any old working distibutor, coil, and battery, 6v or 12v it doesn't matter. Clamp this distributor into the vice, wire it up to the coil and battery, so that when you turn the shaft, you are getting a nice fat spark jumping from the coil to the vice, this is the test spark for your rotor on the v12 distributor. Temporary fasten the coil HT lead to the 1st slipring on the Lincoln dist, attach another piece of HT lead to the vise and hold it about 1/4" away from the arm on the 1st slipring, spin the shaft on the vise distributor, you should have a nice spark, gradualy increase the gap until the spark stops jumping, has it now started jumping between the Linc dist body and the vise (3/8" gap), if so the slipring is leaking to earth through the shaft. Now hold the lead near the 2nd slipring, spin the distributor in the vise, there should be no spark coming from the second slipring, if there is the rotor is leaking between the two sliprings, you should only have a spark between each slipring and it's own arm. Repeat the test with your test coil lead attached to the 2nd slipring. If all is well, and there are no sparks leaking where they shouldn't, and this is most important, repeat all the above tests again while gently warming the rotor with a heat gun, it doesn't have to be very warm, you may find it works perfectly cold, but gradualy deteriorates as it gets warmer, with sparks leaking all over the place, if you find any leaks, dump it and get a new one, you should only have a spark between each slipring and it's own arm. Sorry if this sounds a bit complicated, but it's pretty straightforward, and a good test for the rotor, work carefuly to make sure you don't get any stray shocks of the rigup. Regards Peter Smith UK
  9. Gene, As the old oil slinger has to be ground off the crankshaft to enable the use of the rope type seal, it is probably the same diameter as the main bearing, (2.401" I think) but who knows if the shaft has been reground to a undersize at some time, without measuring it, you can't be sure. Regards Peter Smith UK.
  10. Cecil That car looks a real picture, hope it goes as well as it looks, there are always a few teething problems to sort out when something has been stripped to the bones and rebuilt, I am sure you will get them sorted out, if you don't, and your sick of it, just send it over here to the UK. Regards Very Envious Peter Smith
  11. Paul If your friend has the proper timing jig, and knows how to use it, you shouldn't have any problems setting the distributor up. The jig sets the timing at 4deg advance on the crankshaft. Last year I found through experimenting, and having the distributor off many times that the engine runs much better and cooler on today's fuels if the timing is set to 6deg BTDC (3 deg on the jig). The fact that the engine runs cooler at this setting suggested to me that at the old setting of 4 deg the engine is actualy running retarded. I tried it at 7 deg, with not much improvement over the 6, so I am presently running at 6 1/2 deg, hope this is of some help. Regards Peter Smith UK
  12. Hello All Last weekend I took the Zephyr down to the Rally of the giants (ROG) just north of London, I did 100 miles then met up with Pete Birtles and his 39 coupe to travel the last 150, the cars ran very well at 65/70mph, pete has a 2speed, mine is single, we only hit one small shower of rain, and arrived at the hotel about 6.30, even seeing what was parked in the hotel car park on the Saturday night wetted my appetite for the Sunday, I must admit to being led astray a bit by Peter Birtles forcing alchohol into me till 2 am, there was a nice barbacue laid on as well (from what I can remember). The sunday was a mixture of rain and sun, we got to the showfield about 10am, and I managed to shake off my hangover by about 2pm, but there was some very nice cars there, Packards Hupmobile Chryslers Cady's, (I could easily have spent £200,000 if I had it), met up with Colin and Adrian Spong who had the 2 37 4doors and the 37 coupe, Bernie had his 38 convertible coupe, Mike Williams was there, but unfortunately his car wasn't, and Julian Balms 41 Continental is awaiting a rear axle transplant, but with Pete's 39 coupe, and my 37 it was a nice line up of Lincolns. Bernie won a 1st for the 38 convertible, which I am sure he was very pleased with, and deserved. We fueled up and left for home at about 5pm, traveling at 65/70 again, we went through some very heavy rain storms, and after about 100 miles I noticed the temparature starting to rise, so pulled in, on checking under the hood the fan belt was shredded, and in the process had wrapped itself around the fan and sheared it off it's rubber bonding to the hub, fortunately Pete Birtles had a spare fanbelt with him (I had a spare which I had put away for safe keeping, and could not find it before the trip) we put the new belt on, took the fan and hub assy off, and put it in the trunk, topped the water up and set off again at a steady 50/55, after another 50 miles and with a wave Pete turned off for home, I carried on, stopping twice just to check the water level, but all was well, got home at about 11.30pm. The engine ran very well and is very willing, it's roller lifters seem to be performing OK, it did a total of 503 miles at 16.5 mpg, and used 3 pints of oil, (and a fan belt), not too bad for an old motor. As I mentioned in my last post, I am nursing this crankshaft, as it is ground to the limit, minus .060 thou, I would be interested if anyone has a later big bearing crank for sale. email me at peternedsmith@tiscali.co.uk Regards Peter Smith UK
  13. Hello Dee Yes I have got full roller contact, with a bit of cam to one side doing nothing, there was about 0.020" endfloat on the camshaft, I took this down to 0.005" by machining the front cover, as far as the oil additives are concerned, I would not have done this for that sole reason, but as I was in there anyway why not give it a try. This engine is on standard bores, it must have had the block replaced at sometime in it's life, unfortunately the crank is the early small journal one, and it has been ground to it's limit, although it is in good usable condition, I might look out for a later crank and a set of rods, (got to keep busy) As far as any increase in performance, there is a company near me who could do a dyno test on this, what do you think would be a reasonable BHP figure for a standard engine in good condition? Regards Peter smith UK
  14. Hello Dee Yes you are right, some roller cams have a steeper profile with a flatter top so that the valve opens faster and for longer, the zephyr cam profile is much softer than that, as I was not looking for extra performance, more for reliability,(re reduction of anti scuffing aditives in oils) I tried the original cam in with these lifters with the following results, 0.013" clearance. inlet opens 21deg BTDC. closes 54deg ABDC. exhaust opens 50deg BBDC. closes 9deg ATDC. These are not to far away from the original settings going by the book I have got, I did not measure them before stripping the engine (I should have for comparison), the book states them as. inlet opens 19.5deg BTDC. closes 54.5deg ATDC. exhaust opens 57.5deg BBDC. closes 16.5deg ATDC. Looking at some of the V8 settings, which were very different from these, I was happy to go with the above results for lead, lag, and overlap, what concerned me more was that the rollers being only 0.375" wide might roll up the hard facing on the cam, but by keeping a similar spring rate, I hope this is not the case, time will tell, it is all a bit experimental anyway. Peter Smith UK
  15. Hello all It's a while since I have posted on here, been a bit busy I have just had the 37 Zephyr out today for a short run, after having the engine out over the winter,I fitted new stainless valves, new guides,Mercedes valve stem seals on the inlets, and I wanted to make the valves adjustable, I thought about buying adjustable lifters, but then thought why not go the whole way and make up some roller adjustable lifters, the basis of these were 2 sets of GM V6 hydraulic lifters, with the hydraulic part machined off ($50 a set on ebay) there was no point in buying bearings at $14 each, I then had to make 24 hollow barrels with adjusters to press these into, finished off with a couple of spot welds on the bottoms for insurance, these were then ground to suit the bores, these are guided to stay in line camshaft, and I was not very happy with the V8 idea of a tiny screw to locate them, I also wanted something that would stop the lifter turning when adjusting the clearances, so I went for flats on the lifters, with hardened and ground plate between each pair, this involved creating a bridge framework the full length of the valve chest to carry the plates, this is fastened by a bolt at each end, I added a spring in the middle which butts onto the underside of the inlet manifold just in case it vibrates in the middle, but I don't think it will. the stainless valves which are a V8 part had to be cut to length and regrooved for the keepers, I also had to use shorter valve springs, but managed to find some 2"long with a similar spring rate 50lbs closed, 105 lbs open, which allowed me the room for the adjusters. Also fitted a new rotor, and high volume oil pump modified to a full flow oil filter, this involved making up a new bottom plate for the pump which takes the oil through the bottom of the oil pan via an O ring joint up to the filter, then back out, and into the block where the old oil filter fitting was, the original outlet on this new pump was just under 7/16" dia, so I made the pipework 7/16dia right through, and opened the block out to suit. I also fitted a prelube kit, don't know if any of you have seen these, its from autoenginelube Co Las vegas, as you know most crankshaft wear takes place when you start up, especialy if the motor has stood idle for a while, as ours do, the bearings are dry, and the oil system drains into the pan. All this does is pressurize the oil system before starting the engine, it then charges itself back up when the engine starts, the canister is a bit bulky but could be hidden a bit better, I just put it thier for convenience. this is a 3 quart cannister, there are 1 and 2 quart sizes. It seems to work very well, you can see the oil pressure gauge rising when it's turned on before starting. I also made up and fitted twin stainless steel exhausts, I had been collecting the parts for this for some time, and managed to get 2x18" stainless mufflers which fit nicely fore and aft, instead of accross the rear end Hopefully I will be putting a few miles on this car now, so I will keep you updated as to how it goes, it may all end in disaster, who knows,no pain, no gain, but for now it seems to be running well. Peter Smith UK
  16. Glenn Email me offlist. peternedsmith@tiscali.co.uk
  17. Glenn I have had a 6 volt 38 amp + ground alternator on my zephyr for over a year now and it has coped very well see Ebay item 260298112833 I think about $65 this is a tractor site, but they have some usefull stuff. I have also fitted separate modern coils, see pic in post "Just a Warning" further down the main page. Regards Peter Smith UK
  18. You will have to bridge the resistors, or do away with them altogether, the original wires that went to the coils, put one each on the - side of the new coils, take a wire from the + of the coils, these go to the terminals on your condensers which also feed the points,they are connected internaly to the condenser terminals inside the coil housing. I fitted 2 small terminals for the points feed on the plate that I made, but this was just for convenience. This is for normal original + ground 6v system, if it has been changed to - ground, reverse the coil connections Regards PS
  19. v12 Lincoln I converted mine a while back, and fitted 2 6v coils (see pic), I still have the top half of the coil housing if you want it(FOC, shipping only) unfortunately I am in the UK. Regards Peter Smith
  20. Wes It now seems to be on the middle of page 3 ??? PS
  21. Wes Go back to the bottom of page 5, look at "37 zephyr wipers". I fitted a modern 12 volt wiper motor to my 6volt Zephyr, but left it so that it could easily be changed back to vacuum if required, and retains the normal dash wiper knob, there are a couple of pics there. The speed is sedate, but quite adequate. Regards Peter Smith UK
  22. Hello David Grip the lens, and turn it about 1/8th to a 1/6th of a turn anticlockwise, and it should pull out. ( I have got new clips if you need them) Regards Peter Smith UK
  23. Cecil Many thanks for the offer, I have just agreed a price with Steve for his manifold, a big plus is that it is already in the UK, and the company my nephew works for have depots all over the country, so he is having it collected from the Bristol Depot, and sent up to Newcastle depot, I think this will be safer than UK parcel Post, as they are very good at losing things, Steve has done some tests on it and it is looking good. I have also ordered gaskets from your side of the pond, so it will be next week before they are here, in the meantime I will take Peechers advice and strip and clean the carb. Many thanks to all who helped. Regards peter Smith
  24. Peecher Just a thought, can the later 4 stud manifold be drilled and tapped to take the 3rd stud, for the 3 stud carb, if so that would give me more choice. Regards Peter Smith
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