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Everything posted by wbower3

  1. Reg, what'll you give for it? And pay my hourly billing rate to crate it? Email me. Walt Reg, I may still have an unused floormat (front) for the '38. Memory serves, it's the same as the 35. I think I got it frm either PlyDo or from Steele. Do you still need one?
  2. Dave, I have a couple of carburetors. I'll be glad to sell one or both and he can have a choice. email me at wbower3@yahoo.com. I'll have to look at them again to get the identifying info. I think one is off a 36 and one from a 39.
  3. Reg, How much of it do you want? It's complete with bell housing, pressure plate, disc, and flywheel, also has the parking brake. walt
  4. Hey John, for what it's worth, that clip is a soft metal clip that is squeezed at the ends to 'lock' it in the groove on the shaft. If you are able to spread the two ends of the 'U', you should then be able to push it back and get a tool between the fat part if the 'U' and the shaft and slip it off. Otherwise, use a ballpeen hammer and a prickpunch with a sharp point that can be place on the fat part of the 'U' and gently drive it back. When it goes back to gether if you are careful getting it off, you can flatten it and re use it by squeezing it closed.
  5. I hve several '38 Dodge parts that I need to dispose of so my family will not have to do so. I have a complete rear axle assembley including brake drums, rear springs, useable "silent shackles", the brake shoes were relined about 20,000 miles before it was pulled out. Also a pair of '38 trunk lid hinges for a 4 door sedan (D8), one excellant and one in good condition. A complete mastercylinder and brake/clutch pedal assembly, two or three distributors, two generators, a couple of starters. Also a sericable '38 transmission,with the bell housing and a 'new' clutch and flywheel. The flywheel is
  6. Hey Dan, there should be 4 different adjustments on the differential side of the backing plate, if your '39 is like the '38. You should only need to turn the top two. To back off the brake shoes the one toward the front of the car should be turned clockwise and the one toward the rear of the car should be turned counter-clockwise, both as you look at the differential side of the backing plate. The bottom two should be the brake shoe anchor bolts, and if my memory is corect, you don't want to mess with them, as they are a headache to re-adjust. You have to take the drum off to do so.
  7. There's an 80 year old machinist here in Oklahoma City that uses a different method of repairing cracked blocks. He drills and taps a hole on the end of the crack and the puts a tapered screw plug in it. Then does it again, overlapping the first one and continueing unil the entie crack is addressed. He also uses some kind of sealer on the tapered screws. The last time I heard of him doing this was on a big diesel engine in some sort of off road prime mover. I have also read about it in a magazines years ago. You might want to check around where you live for an older machinist in an older estab
  8. The engine was rebuilt about 4 years ago to replace the 217ciengine in my '38 Dodge.It is complete with intake, exhaust manifolds, '38 carburetor, '38 starter, bell housing, clutch and transmission, all out of the '38. The engine has 30 miles +/- on it after installed in the '38. It was bored .030 and the crank is either ,010/.010, or .020/020. New timing gear set w/chain, new waterpump innards. Engine located in Oklahoma City, Truckfreight only unless u pick it up. Email wbower3@yahoo.com, the engine number isD42-99513.
  9. Kurt, your talking about one of the simplest engine swaps. I put a 51-52 Dodge 231 ci into my '38 D8 4 door. The only difference is in the flywheel bolt to crankshaft pattern. The '37/38 used four bolts, the 50 and later used 6 or 8 bolts. I do not recall, but I think that there may be a diffence in the bushing for the transmission input shaft also. I just listed the rebuilt 231 that I pulled out of my '38 in the Buy/Sell forum, and it will be going on eBay as soon as I get the photos to my son.The engine has about 30 minutes total time since it was rebuilt. It also has the 38 transmission and
  10. Having done the dirty deed, I now have the engine I rebuilt for my 38 Dodge for sale, I'm told it's a '50,'51,'52, Dodge engine. Pistons are .030 over, mains and rods are .010 under. Timing chain/gears are new, hardened valve seats, rebuilt water pump. Comes with attached D8 3 speed transmission, new clutch disc and rebuilt pressure plate, intake/exhaust manifolds and '38 carburetor, has startermotor attached, new points/condensor in the distributor. Will need to pick up in Oklahoma City, or will arrange truck freight. Will also be posted on ebay. If interested email to: Wbower3@yahoo.com. Hav
  11. Re: Torque specs o a 36 Mopar. If you can find an old MOTORS MANUEL in your local library, it may give you the info you want. Otherwise, the rods in my 38 are 40-45lbs, the mains were 50-60lbs, and the head bolts were 80-85 lbs.
  12. I'm still looking for some emblems for a 1955 Dodge Royal Lancer. I need the front fender scrpt "Royal Lancer", for both fenders. I've tried every sugestion that any one has come up with on this forum, the "Forward Look" forum, the Dodge Brothers forum, etc, I've tried salvage yards all over the US that I've identified as old Mopar salvage. If anyone has any suggestions, please advise. Thanks.
  13. I'm cleaning out the garage of the parts taken off the '38 D8. Mopar heater, vacumn wiper motors, wiper arms, complete rear axle assembley with springs and silent "U" shackles (worn but useable - shackles). May have complete newly rebuilt 231ci engine with new clutch disc and rebuilt pressure plate, transmission serviceable, but could stand new bearings, misc. carburetors, distributors, all useable, carbs would need kits. complete maaster cylinder assembly, brake and clutch pedal asssembley ,starter motor, generator, both 6 volt, '37 or 38, all items are used. Also a 217 long block that has ab
  14. I'm hunting for the front fender script for a '55 Royal Lancer 2 door hard top. Also the right door vent window locking lever. If anyone kows where I might find them, I'll appreciate the advice.. Email to wbower3@yahoo.com. Thanks.
  15. Reg, among the "stuff" I'm getting together to move out of the garage, are 1/2 dozen vacumn wiper motors and some wiperarms. the blades are all dead however. I don't remember which ones I took out of the '38, though. Some are '37, and maybe some are out of a '38-39 1/2 ton. I would be interested in trading them for some parts I need for my '55. If interested, email me.
  16. From the discription you gave about how you stopped the engine, i.e. putting it in gear and 'popping' the clutch, I suspect that the problem may be more involved. I would look at the ignition timing, I would also suggest checking the compression on all 6 cylinders to see if you may have one or more valves stuck in an open position. I let my '38 sit for periods of time, and the valves would stick open. You may also want to consider whether the camshaft has jumped time by possibly one tooth. It's been too long since I had one apart, and I don't recall the configuration of the cam drive, whether
  17. Anybody have any knowledge about the Dodge Brothers Club's website? I.e., why it's "down", and when it may be back "up"?
  18. Bob, you can try PlyDo. Some times they may have what you need. You can also try Moores Auto Salvege. They have alarege assortment of Mopars, but some times they may be slow to reply to email. They do have a website. I have bought some parts for my '38 from them.
  19. Can some one tell me where the oil filter on the Red Ram v8 engine is suposed to be located? Also, is it a cartridge type, or is it a spin-on type filter?
  20. Hey "Tigwelder", Sorry but I just noticed that I had messed up the email address. If you hit the post again, I have corrected the add. wbower3@yahoo.com. Im still looking for parts.
  21. Grandcoupe, I need some of your parts. Particularly some of the bright work, I need the "dodge" from the front of the hood, and the 'Royal Lancer' that goes on the front fenders. I need both the right and left fender script. Please advise price and estimate shipping costs and method of payment. I am in Oklahoma City, OK, zip code 73118. Email at wbower3@yahoo.com. Or call me at 405-528-0047. Walter Bower.
  22. I have just acquired a '55 Dodge Royal Lancer 2 door for restoration purposes. It's rough, and loks like I'll need a floor pan and possibley an engine, if the one in it is not rebuildable. Does any one have a donor-parts car within reasonale distance of Oklahoma City? I'm not in any particular hurry, as I need to put the finishing touches on my '38 Dodge D8. But I plan on starting on the '55 in the late spring. As I hope to end up with a daily driver, I'm going to plan on air conditioning the puppy. Has anyone had experience with air conditioning an older model with 6 volt electrics? I mean
  23. Recently acquired a '55 Royal Lancer with a 270 ci Red Ram and automatic trans. The engine is 'locked up'. I plan on starting restoration this spring. It'll need a floor pan relacement. I've the tools and know-how, but a donor car would be nice, or possibly an after-market source. Yeh, I know that this is the Dodge Brothers Club, and the die-hards really don't want to mess with something this new, BUT (!), I also am puting the finishing touches on my 1938 D8 so I can get started on the '55. I don't plan to go off the deep end, but I'm looking to have a car I can drive daily. That means adding
  24. Herb, If you have not found a distributor for your '38, email me at wbower3@yahoo.com. I have two '38 distributors on the shelf. Walt
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