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wbower3

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Everything posted by wbower3

  1. Sorry to say that I have not been resonsive to inquiries on the site, but my computer crashed last year and the hard drive was lost. Reg Evans, I found the floormat, If I can figure out the photo system, I'll try to email one. Peter The hinges from the 38 wont work on your 32. 37dodge, the engine and transmission have been sold, sorry. I may know where thre is a "longblock" from a 38 that would need to be rebuilt A to Z.
  2. Sorry to say that I have not been resonsive to inquiries on the site, but my computer crashed last year and the hard drive was lost. Reg Evans, I found the floormat, If I can figure out the photo system, I'll try to email one. Peter The hinges from the 38 wont work on your 32. 37dodge, the engine and transmission have been sold, sorry. I may know where thre is a "longblock" from a 38 that would need to be rebuilt A to Z.
  3. Hi Dan. I assume you have packed it away for the winter from your last post. I can share the feelings you've indicated .Went through much of the same with my '38 D8.I have a NOS oil pressure guage for a '38. From what has been said about the pressure and that the guae remained "pegged", I would think that the brasstube in the guage distorted past the normal limit. There is a guy in Arkansas at Williams Inst.s that can repair the original for a reasonable price. At least his charges were reasonable to me, and I avoided the to hunt for replacements.I think he does have a website.
  4. Hey Toybox, When did they pave the Alcan Hwy? When we drove it to Fairbanks and back the only paving was the last few miles into Fairbanks. That was August, 1950. Two adults, two teenagers and two children in a 1950 Plymouth two door sedan. Poor mother had to straddle the driveshaft hump, front seat or back, for over 9000 miles round trip. Then the 'gravel' was fist sized rock. Killed four tires on the way up and two on the way back, after buying two in Fairbanks. Did not know it's been paved. Whatsername and I have been discussing making that trip Summer of '08 in a motorhome. Are there campi
  5. Please contct me by email at wbower3@yahoo.com. I am interested in possible purchase of some parts from the 56 2 door.
  6. Thanks guys, I had not had this experience before and as ignorant as I am I did not recognize the resistor as culprit. Do you have any suggestion as to the Ohms required for the replacement resistor? Lurking in the back of my feeble mind, I keep visualizing the wiring schematic for the Mopar electronic ignition and I keepthinking there should be a bypass wire feeding 12 volts to the unit when it cranks and drops to 6 when the key returns from 'start' to 'run'.Naturally, I can't find the XXXX&^%$#@schematic.I'll plug in a newballast resistor and see what happens. Thanks walt.
  7. If your tank wont heal with an interior coating process, Jou might try Big M Automotive, Wiliams, CA. Ask for John Fowlie. He's mostly into 55-61 Mopars i.e. ForwardLook vehs. but you neverknow what he may come up with. I just received a tank from him to replace my '55 Dodge tank. His email is BigMAuto@Colusanet.com. Fair prices, and easy to deal with.
  8. I have seen on another website where on man manufactured his own puller. A generic three armed puller that will capture three of the studs on the brake drum, if stout 'nuff, may do the job. I have also been told that it was common for active mechanics of the genere to back off the castellated nut a couple of turns, replace the cotter key and very carefully drive to the nearest large parking lot and drive in circles until the drum pops loose. Never tried it my self. Have used a little heat on the drum and some wd-40 on the shaft and nut, and using a hub/drum puller all at the same time.
  9. If any one needs a complete rear axle assembly with springs and springshackles, bakes and drums, I need to get it out of the way. It's been stored out side for the last couple of years. email at:wbower3@yahoo.com. Walt
  10. Recently rebuilt 231 ci Dodge 6 cyl. Engine #D42-99513. New valve job,.030 pistons, .010/.010 crank, rods straigtened, newtiming gear set, new water pump, cam bushings. Engine was 'vatted before machine work done. Has about 30 minutes running time on it. Has been in inside storage since taken out of car. Has '38 intake,exhaust and starter motor on it, along with '38 flywheel,clutch assy. and transmission. Will part. If interested, email to: wbower3@yahoo.com. Need to get it out of the way, but will not give it away. Walt
  11. Hey Dodgent, If your intersted in a '50/51 231 ci engine that has been recently rebuilt, .030 over pistons, .010/.010 crank, valve job, new timing gears/chain, water pump,oil pump, it's available, and I need to get it out of the way. If interested email me at:wbower3@yahoo.com. I'm in Oklahoma City. The engine # is D42-99513. Walt Bower
  12. After converting my '38 D8 Dodge to a 318 ci with a 727 trans., I had to replace the ignition switch also. I first tried a 65 switch from a 12 volt later model Dodge. Had a starting problem with the Mopar electronic ignition, I has the Mopar ignition unit with two wires to the distrbuto and a standard Mopar starter relay.and voltage dropping resistor , all as Mopars kit directs, all connected per instructions. The problem is that when it has been run and is 'warm' it does not want to start as long as the engine is being cranked. But as soon as the key is released from the 'crank/start detent
  13. Philly, it looks just like the radiator that came out of my '38 Dodge D8, so it more likely is a '38 DeSoto. Andy Bernbaum might be the person to ask, if you could get him to standstill long enough.
  14. The "Fish" carburetor that I bought back in the early '60s was a modified Carter single barrel, I bought it by mail, it came direct from "Fish", it dpes not look any thing like your pics, except being a single barrel. I bought mine to fit on a 59 VW bug, so I could hit the strip. Made no difference over the VW's stock carb. Still have it in the box somewhere.
  15. Hi ALK, Big M Auto Williams, CA. who deals in Mopar "Forward Look" cars has an exchange for me from a 55/56 Dodge/Plymouth, whaich I hope is now on it's way. John Fowlie, of Big M, is anabsolute fountain of information on Mopars and their interchangea bility. Un fortunately, I picked the 'oddball' year to undertake a res-toration project. But, that's my problem. Thanks for the reply. Walt
  16. Thanks for the suggestion Thom. I think I've found one on the Forward Look website. But, Im making note of the site you mentioned, in case.....Walt
  17. I need help finding a gas tank for a '55 Dodge 2 door hrdtop, or a fuel tank that will interchange. If some one has any suggestions, they will be welcome. The one I have is as bad as the one I took off of my '38 D8 4 door, only the '55's holes are all on the top 1/2. Help.
  18. When I pulled the gas tank off and cleaned off 1/2" of undercoat, I found that the gas tank on my 55 Dodge RL was a nice peice of steel swiss cheese. All the holes ae on the top half?????? Any way, cam any one tell me what other yearmodel/make will interchange? Better yet can someone tell me where I could find a tank, new or used? Thanks, Walt.
  19. Reg, if you check this post, you may also want to check the "38 Dodge Parts" post, I bill the SSA at $165. The US District Court will approve more, but I'm not greedy. HaHaHaHa..................
  20. Reg, I'm sorry to say that I have not been able to lcate the XXXXXXXXX floormatt. Do you want the transmission? If so I can pull it off the engine and see about crating it. I also can not find the '38 radio that was last seen in the attic at home.......
  21. Hey Wingwalker, The only real problem you may have will be accessing the rear brake cylinders. The problem comes with getting the brake drums off the tapered axles. The repair parts for the mastercylinder and the individual wheel cylinders can still be obtained from your locl NAPA store. Even O'Reillys will have the various rubber parts. You will want to find ,again, an older or longterm parts man, not the highschool dropout that is only capable of entering brand and year model on the computer. You'll also want to purcahse a good quality brake cylinder hone. Peferably one with replacable stone
  22. Travi, there is an earlier post on this web site on 7/31/07, where a similiar cracked block eas discussed. There were a couple of methods described on repairing cracks in the block. That involved a crack of the outer side of a block not the internal combustion chmber portion. I suggest you follow Brian' advice, hold an appropriate funeral, use ti for a boat anchor, and find a good block.
  23. John, I don't know if you solved your problem yet with the master cylinder, but a lot of that type master cylinder had the pushrod made as a part of the initial piston, and there was an internal snap ring that had to be removed before the pushrod/piston could be withdrawn from the cylinder bore. If you have removed any snap-ring and the piston is stuck in the bore, You might try heating the master cykinder with a propane torch and after it's warmed up, give the pushrod/piston assembly a shot of carb- cleaner or brake cleaner. BUT YOU WANT TO BE CAREFUL HOW MUCH HEAT YOU PUT ON THE CYLINDER.
  24. Did you try Steele Rubber, PlyDo and Bernbaum. I bought one 4-5 years ago for my '38, didn't use it, but now, I can't find it or the '38 radio. Walt
  25. Reg, I sent you an email on 8/7/07. The gy in Chicago decid-ed that he did not want the 231 ci engine in his '38. So the price for the transmission is as per email. Walt
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