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Posts posted by wbower3

  1. I have heard it said that you can turn the front motor mounts around and gain enough space to install the larger Chrysler 6 cyl. engine in a '30's model dodge/plymouth. Never tried, so don't know the truth. Do know that the 230 flywheel will bolt on the 217 crank shaft and the '38 clutch and transmission will bolt up to a '42 230 ci engine, but you got to use the 8 bolt flywheel.

  2. The '38 D8 (4 door) veh. ID No. should be on the front door jamb on the passenger side. It will be the body number. It will also be stamped on the driver's side frame rail near the front spring perch of the left side rear spring. Often the DMV's (e.g. Kansas) used the engine number on the titles. When the engine was changed in my '38, a court hearing was required to force the DMV (Oklahoma) to issue a new title and allow a license plate to be issued when the car was restored and driven again.

  3. JB, I trust you'll excuse the fact that I have been dilatory in not responding to your comments sooner, however work takes precedence. I want you and Rusty to know that I have owned my '38 since 1971. It was my daily driver for almost ten years in it's totally original state. It went into long term storage in the late '80s and in 2000, or thereabouts, it came out to undergo a refurbishment as opposed to factory-new restoration, with the intent that it would again be a daily driver. Then the direction changed, when an '81 Lebaron became available, having been towed from the roadside and abandoned. It provided many of the comfort amenities that have gone into the '38. The exterior of the '38 has been restored to stock. I am now able to drive it daily and keep up with traffic on both city streets and the Interstate highways. And do so in quiet comfort. I do not consider it to be a "hotrod" and I do not drive it in such a manner.

    I consider your "Viagra" remark to be offensive, objectionable and wholely out of place on a website such as this. In fact it would even seem to be out of character for someone with the degree of resposibility to other clubmembers that you have as an editor.

    I do receive and enjoy reading the club's magazine, and realize the effort it takes to compile it, and respect those dedicated souls that provide the effort to get it out each month. I have in the past helped with a similiar club publication. But I still agree with the other gentleman's observation that it tends to appear more biased toward the 'Teens and the Twenties.

    Rusty, for your benefit, there are no Cheeby or Furd parts. It's all Mopar, it' just that some of the parts are 42 years newer. And it's enjoyed on a daily basis. It's not parked in a climate controlled environment, it's not a trailer queen, nor did it cost $200,000.00 when I finished. I did every bit of the work myself, to my satisfaction, and I don't have to back up to anyone about any part of it. It will endure just as well as any other automobile that is used for the purpose it was intended, i.e. transportation, not eye-candy. Ifyou enjoy going out in your garage and flicking the specks of dust off your "restored" vehicles, do it, go for it, whatever floats your boat, or turns your wick up, BUT, don't condemn me because I want to enjoy mine in a different manner. Walt Bower

  4. John, I just got my computer back on-line, and was able to note your comment of 5/9/08 as regards my attitude and the fact I have violated the "originality" of my '38 Dodge. You may be assured that the last thing I would want to do would be to "Insult" any of the narrow-minded individuals who seek only to promote "originality" by showing up at a DB meet with my un-original '38.

    As I plan to attendthe WPC Club meet in July, '08, I will be "modifying" my '38 further to make it more roadworthy than it is now. I will be adding current 12 volt headlight bulbs (xenon?) and changing the sweep arc on the ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPERS and having the AIR CONDITIONER checked for it's freon supply. I will also top off the POWER STEERING resevoir and the POWER BRAKE fluid supply. I know that the AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION fluid is new, clean, and topped off. I'll take those precautions as my wife of 50 years will be accomanying me,and as we will be driving the "38 Dodge from Oklahoma City to Pennsylvania, and as she has comfort issues when traveling, I think it only reasonable that i perform pre-trip safety and comfort checks on the vehicle.

    Unlike some pretentious people, who appear to consider form over function, I chose to modify rather than suffer from heat, inability to stay up with trafic, etc. But I don't cast aspersions upon those who worship at the alter of "orininality". So, look down your nose at me if you must, ostracize me if you deem it necessary, but I'll be taking my GOAT to the WPC Club meet, and with some modicum of comfort while doing so. As an added plus, I will also be keeping travel-related-complaints to a minimum. If it turns out to be a dog and pony show, so be it! (In the unlikely event someone feels aneed to respond other than publicly to this post I may be reached at: Walter Bower III, email: wbower3@yahoo.com; snail mail at: Bower & Bower, Attorneys,. 3721 N. Classen Blvd., Oklahoma City, OK 73118: Tele: 405-528-0047)

  5. Just stumbled onto this post. I'm not a tech editor, nor a member of a significant number of auto clubs. I was a member of the WPC many years ago, but dropped out when I changed employment directions. I have recently rejoined WPC, the Dodge Brothers, and the ForwardLook. Mainly in order to obtain some information and parts when I was working on my '38 Dodge. Now that I'm working on a '55 Dodge, I guess that it will be regaled to the WPC and Forwarlook websites/boards if and when i have more issues to inquire about. I do receive, read and appreciate the D/B news letter, but it seems to have a oneway theme. If it doesn't have spokes or artillery wheels, it don't get much print coverage.

    I'm also told, that were I to show up at a D/B meet with my '38, I not only would be ostracized, but that I should also be concerned of the risk attendant with tar and feathers, as my '38 is not a "stock" restoration. Yeah, it has been modified! GASP!!! While the exterior has been retained "stock", the driveability has been significantly enhanced. The Summer operating environ has also been altered. Why? Because it's my car, I drove it as a daily driver for severaal years. It was in storage for several more years until I drug it out and began the project. Now it has the amenities of a current vehicle and is much more pleaant and pleasurable to drive in the Oklahoma Summers. Hopefully my son wil also be able to enjoy it after I take the final checkered flag.

    To maintain the emphasis of this thread/post, I agree with Jan and John in that it seems that if it ain't '29 or earlier, it'll be a second class effort, sort of a tolerated step-child. Walt

  6. I can echo Rusty's comments. My highschool girl friends parents had a new '53 Dodge with the Gyromatic tranny. I was freqquently priviledged to drive it with only she and I aboard. Try as hard as I could, I could not hurt the trasmission. Properly abused, it would give you four speeds forward. On a few occassions we got two speeds in reverse, but that was more difficult to do on city streets. That transmission will take a lot of abuse.

  7. Rusty, I like your comment about the "pimple-faced kid behind the counter in the chainstore" If you push the kid and just don't accept his statement that since it's not popping up on his computer screen so 'they don't have the part'. You can make him bring out the book and do your own looking. I trade at an O'Rielly's in Oklahoma City, and I don't trust their computer and make him bring out the manufacturer's catalogues and then find what I want.

  8. I set my '38 at the factory specs when I had the engine on an engine stand. Absolutely stone cold. Installed the engine and ran it 30,000+ miles before pulling it to replace it with a 230ci. (Gasp!) Pulled the head off on the 217ci out of curiosity to see if there had been any problems. From what little I do recall the valves looked as good as when I put them in. Did not look at the lifters/tappets or the cam. The timing chain was still tight. I used a go-no go feeler guage when I set the valves. So they could have been on the loose side.

  9. Hi RedRam. Go on line with Google or a search engine and find Moore's Auto Salvage, I think it's in one of the Dakota's. The have an extensive amount ot older Mopar salvage. Also try BigMAuto salvage in Williams CA. He is really into Mopar in big way tries to concentrate on 55 to 61+, but should have some 3 speed mopar trannies.

  10. 1950-51 D42 230 ci 6 cylinder engine. Can someone refer me to a quick reference for the clearances for adjusting the valves. When it was assembled, I used '38 numbers to adjust them cold. Engines now been run long enough to be "brken in", and a different person may have adjusted the valves, but one is apparently set too lose and is 'clicking'. My recall is that they should be set with the engine 'hot'. Can someone help with tis? Thanks

  11. Thom, you got a beautiful car. How does one get a hold of the man who made your running boards? That's the only non-stock part of my car on the exterior (if you don't consider the mercury "lace" wheels). I'd like to see if he can still make a set, if they're not priced "out of sight" now.

  12. Dave, where did you get the running boards mats on your car? I looked all over, every website anything that even mentioned running boards 4-5 years ago and could not find any reference to someone that could/would reproduce them. My originals were so far gone that I had to trash them and ended up using aftermarket boards acquired from Smoothies. They fit OK, but do not have the punched holes for the stock type mats. Also, what wheels re you using? I see that they are not 16" wheels, but you are able to use the original hubcaps.

  13. No body in creation has come up with the molds yet to replace the '38 running board rubber matts. They were vulcanized onto a separate piece of metal that was then attached to the runnning boards. I think that's the problem. The other side of that is that if someone did re-pop them the price would be next to prohibitive except for the ultra-comfortable restorer.... Oh Well.

  14. You may want to Google "Allpar Mopar" and see if you can come up with the answer. I was able to find a lot of information there about Mopar rear axle ratios there when I changed the rear end on an '81 Chrysler rear axle from 3:23 to a 2:90. If no answer there Try Streetrodder Magazine and look for some of it's advertizers that sell rear axle assemblies. I had to put a later model rear end under a '38 Dodgeto eliminate the tapered axles and to get an 8.75 ring and pinion gear set with the 2:90 ratio. The rear axle in my '55 Dodge does have a 3:54 ratio and the D*** tapered axles.

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