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Everything posted by wbower3

  1. I have heard it said that you can turn the front motor mounts around and gain enough space to install the larger Chrysler 6 cyl. engine in a '30's model dodge/plymouth. Never tried, so don't know the truth. Do know that the 230 flywheel will bolt on the 217 crank shaft and the '38 clutch and transmission will bolt up to a '42 230 ci engine, but you got to use the 8 bolt flywheel.
  2. The '38 D8 (4 door) veh. ID No. should be on the front door jamb on the passenger side. It will be the body number. It will also be stamped on the driver's side frame rail near the front spring perch of the left side rear spring. Often the DMV's (e.g. Kansas) used the engine number on the titles. When the engine was changed in my '38, a court hearing was required to force the DMV (Oklahoma) to issue a new title and allow a license plate to be issued when the car was restored and driven again.
  3. Williamsons in eastern Arkansas can install a new cable and bulb. They have a website.
  4. My '38 radio (now in the attic) had the antenna mounted under the passenger side running board.
  5. JB, I trust you'll excuse the fact that I have been dilatory in not responding to your comments sooner, however work takes precedence. I want you and Rusty to know that I have owned my '38 since 1971. It was my daily driver for almost ten years in it's totally original state. It went into long term storage in the late '80s and in 2000, or thereabouts, it came out to undergo a refurbishment as opposed to factory-new restoration, with the intent that it would again be a daily driver. Then the direction changed, when an '81 Lebaron became available, having been towed from the roadside and abandon
  6. John, I just got my computer back on-line, and was able to note your comment of 5/9/08 as regards my attitude and the fact I have violated the "originality" of my '38 Dodge. You may be assured that the last thing I would want to do would be to "Insult" any of the narrow-minded individuals who seek only to promote "originality" by showing up at a DB meet with my un-original '38. As I plan to attendthe WPC Club meet in July, '08, I will be "modifying" my '38 further to make it more roadworthy than it is now. I will be adding current 12 volt headlight bulbs (xenon?) and changing the sweep arc on
  7. Just stumbled onto this post. I'm not a tech editor, nor a member of a significant number of auto clubs. I was a member of the WPC many years ago, but dropped out when I changed employment directions. I have recently rejoined WPC, the Dodge Brothers, and the ForwardLook. Mainly in order to obtain some information and parts when I was working on my '38 Dodge. Now that I'm working on a '55 Dodge, I guess that it will be regaled to the WPC and Forwarlook websites/boards if and when i have more issues to inquire about. I do receive, read and appreciate the D/B news letter, but it seems to have a
  8. I can echo Rusty's comments. My highschool girl friends parents had a new '53 Dodge with the Gyromatic tranny. I was freqquently priviledged to drive it with only she and I aboard. Try as hard as I could, I could not hurt the trasmission. Properly abused, it would give you four speeds forward. On a few occassions we got two speeds in reverse, but that was more difficult to do on city streets. That transmission will take a lot of abuse.
  9. I don't have them handy. I'll look in StreetRodder and post the info they give in a couple of days.
  10. Do you have to get under it and hit the starter motor with a hammer when it's hot? Had one, been there, kept hammer in the trunk just in casr. Used it oftn before finallly sold it. 13 miles per gallon. Rode like floating on a cloud. Beautiful car even today.
  11. Rusty, I like your comment about the "pimple-faced kid behind the counter in the chainstore" If you push the kid and just don't accept his statement that since it's not popping up on his computer screen so 'they don't have the part'. You can make him bring out the book and do your own looking. I trade at an O'Rielly's in Oklahoma City, and I don't trust their computer and make him bring out the manufacturer's catalogues and then find what I want.
  12. I set my '38 at the factory specs when I had the engine on an engine stand. Absolutely stone cold. Installed the engine and ran it 30,000+ miles before pulling it to replace it with a 230ci. (Gasp!) Pulled the head off on the 217ci out of curiosity to see if there had been any problems. From what little I do recall the valves looked as good as when I put them in. Did not look at the lifters/tappets or the cam. The timing chain was still tight. I used a go-no go feeler guage when I set the valves. So they could have been on the loose side.
  13. Austinsailor, I bacame aware of the zinc issue recently in reading a2-3 month old issue of StreetRodder Mag. I was not aware of it before. I'm building a 270ci Hemi and I intend to use the zinc/phosphorus additives in it, at least until the engine is broken in and has some miles on it. I did the same by using early vintage Rotella oil to breakin a '38 Dodge engine.
  14. Hi RedRam. Go on line with Google or a search engine and find Moore's Auto Salvage, I think it's in one of the Dakota's. The have an extensive amount ot older Mopar salvage. Also try BigMAuto salvage in Williams CA. He is really into Mopar in big way tries to concentrate on 55 to 61+, but should have some 3 speed mopar trannies.
  15. Rusty, been there and done that, only I did it laying on a concrete floor. After getting hot oil up to the elbows and not even finishing one adjustment, I shut it off and then adjusted them while still hot, Drove it for 25,000 after that with out any appreciable valve noise. Thanks for the help on the 50-51 info.
  16. 1950-51 D42 230 ci 6 cylinder engine. Can someone refer me to a quick reference for the clearances for adjusting the valves. When it was assembled, I used '38 numbers to adjust them cold. Engines now been run long enough to be "brken in", and a different person may have adjusted the valves, but one is apparently set too lose and is 'clicking'. My recall is that they should be set with the engine 'hot'. Can someone help with tis? Thanks
  17. So it's a couple of years later than '38, but can some one give me a quick reference to the valve clearances for a '50/51 D42 6 cylinder engine? When assembled, I used the '38 clearances, but I think they may be too tight.
  18. Dave, I still have my 16" wheels with 20 year old Firestone implemant tires on them (and they hold air), but they're 5" wide. Did yours end up 6 & 1/2" wide? They look great. I'm currently using a non-Mopar wheel to be able to use a radial,215x60x16.
  19. Thom, you got a beautiful car. How does one get a hold of the man who made your running boards? That's the only non-stock part of my car on the exterior (if you don't consider the mercury "lace" wheels). I'd like to see if he can still make a set, if they're not priced "out of sight" now.
  20. Dave, where did you get the running boards mats on your car? I looked all over, every website anything that even mentioned running boards 4-5 years ago and could not find any reference to someone that could/would reproduce them. My originals were so far gone that I had to trash them and ended up using aftermarket boards acquired from Smoothies. They fit OK, but do not have the punched holes for the stock type mats. Also, what wheels re you using? I see that they are not 16" wheels, but you are able to use the original hubcaps.
  21. No body in creation has come up with the molds yet to replace the '38 running board rubber matts. They were vulcanized onto a separate piece of metal that was then attached to the runnning boards. I think that's the problem. The other side of that is that if someone did re-pop them the price would be next to prohibitive except for the ultra-comfortable restorer.... Oh Well.
  22. You may want to Google "Allpar Mopar" and see if you can come up with the answer. I was able to find a lot of information there about Mopar rear axle ratios there when I changed the rear end on an '81 Chrysler rear axle from 3:23 to a 2:90. If no answer there Try Streetrodder Magazine and look for some of it's advertizers that sell rear axle assemblies. I had to put a later model rear end under a '38 Dodgeto eliminate the tapered axles and to get an 8.75 ring and pinion gear set with the 2:90 ratio. The rear axle in my '55 Dodge does have a 3:54 ratio and the D*** tapered axles.
  23. There appears to be a current demand for this model on the Forward Look website. '57 Dodge, Plymouth, Desoto and Chrysler's especially.
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