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spyhunter2k

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About spyhunter2k

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  1. Here are a couple I still have:
  2. I sent them one years back when I had them do mine. I didn't realize they discarded it. You'd think they'd keep it for future reference. When I needed one to send them, I just emailed Jim Finn and he sold me one at a very reasonable price.
  3. Sorry for the delay. I only come back to visit this forum once in a great while. When I undertook my lowering project years ago I was told by a manufacturer of custom springs, who had access to factory spring rates, that Reatta front coil springs had a spring rate of 137 lbs./inch—"pretty low" as far as spring rates went. The custom front springs I ordered had a 20% increase to make up for the 1.5" decrease in travel distance, or 154 lbs./inch.
  4. I'll say it again: Birchmount Auto Spring. They've already made a replacement rear leaf spring for my Reatta, and they hit the lowering target I gave them spot-on. It installs the same way as the factory spring, though you have to cut off the rubber ends from your factory spring and glue them to the ends of the metal one. Also, maybe I didn't make this clear before: the rear spring Birchmount made for me was comprised of TWO leaves joined together, and is a VERY substantial assembly. I seriously doubt you would experience any significant sagging for many years to come. This route means 0 hour
  5. I dropped by today for the first time in years and it was good to see you back.
  6. Lowering the rear is actually the easy part, and I've detailed in the past how I did it. Just call up Birchmount Auto Spring in Canada and ask them to make you a replacement leaf spring for the rear out of metals leaves that has 1.5" less arch than the factory Reatta composite spring. They did it for me, and it worked perfectly. They should still have the factory Reatta spring I sent them in stock and so should be able to make additional custom rear leaf springs for any Reatta owner who requests one. $200 for the spring, about $100 labor for the install, and the rear is done. the only thing I
  7. Please be aware that there is a Reatta owner in Alaska, who bids/wins Ebay auctions for LARGE Reatta parts and THEN informs you he is in Alaska and expects your shipping quote for the US to apply to him when shipping is about 2.5 times to Alaska what it is to the contiguous 48 states. At present, Ebay does not allow sellers to clearly specify that the shipping cost quoted for buyers in "the US" is for the 48 contiguous states only. That said, this is implied. For example, no buyer in their right mind bids on a hood with a quoted shipping cost "to the US" of $70 and really expects the seller to
  8. I am selling my 1990 lowered Reatta coupe with custom bodywork on Ebay. If you type in lowered reatta the ad should come up. The ad has a starting price of $500 with no reserve. Please ask any questions you may have through Ebay. I'm sorry to have to sell the car but I need to finish a few other projects and that means letting some go. You guys have been a great bunch and I still plan to stop in from time to time. Seth This is from the Ebay ad: <TABLE style="WIDTH: 100%; border-spacing: 0px" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD><SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vjo.ctype('vjo
  9. Speaking from experience, you may want to make sure that you can get the front lowered first. The rear is direct and easy once you decide to get a lowering spring. The front...well...mine still isn't right. After three sets of lowering springs finally got it down to the right height there is some type of noise coming from the front. I'm not sure if it's interference or a bad wheel bearing. Also, lowering the front twists the sway bar end links and puts them in a bind. I tried to swap out my sway bar setup for an 88-89 setup, and then shorten the end links to match the 1.5" drop, but they are
  10. This guy makes custom LED boards to fit the background size of the tail light housing. If you were to measure the rear surface area that the boards would be attached to, he could make them. He could also make a few separate boards per side so that the taillights would light sequentially. Price is not prohibitive. NorthWestMustang, LLC
  11. I'm not sure if the spacer is necessary or not, but I know that Birchmount Auto Spring in Canada will make a new leaf spring with less arch to lower the rear for $200. May be better to do that if you're trying to lower the rear instead of finding out that the spacers are there for a reason.
  12. I know that a few have tried American Stitches and have been satisfied with the result, but I've seen a few on the net speaking highly of Alan Gunn Leather Art in Florida, and he charges less. Thought I'd pass it on. Here's the site: Alan Gun Leather Accessories It does say that he mostly specializes in European autos, but he's expanding into more American ones. The price someone mentioned on the net was about $175 for a redo of a wheel, whereas American Stitches is around $225 last I heard.
  13. I hope the KYBs fit. They have for years been advertising two different part numbers for Reatta struts: 236004, which is listed for '88 cars, and another one that was listed for '88-'91. The problem is that 1) the Reatta strut is identical from '88-'91, 2) The one listed for '88 models won't fit any Reatta (search past threads to verify), and 3) I don't see that they sell the correct one anymore.
  14. It's not the rims. It's an increase in overall diameter that lifts a car above factory height. BUT--there's lifting the car literally vs. the car appearing to be lifted. Aesthetically, a car appears to be abnormally lifted when the tire sidewall height is smaller than the gap between tire and fender. In other words, if you have a really skinny tire and a large gap between the tire and fender, it looks like the car is lifted higher than it should be. Reattas have a pretty large tire/fender gap, but since the tire sidewall height is even greater, it still looks ok from the factory. Once you sta
  15. Have watched the first disc. Am very pleased so far.
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