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Skippy

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Everything posted by Skippy

  1. A helpful hint for cleaning your whitewall tires: Steps: 1. Purchase a bottle of AMMONIA 2. Transfer the AMMONIA into a spray bottle 3. Spray the white wall of the tire 4. Let sit for a few minutes 5. Wipe with a cloth 6. If yellow, does not completely disappear use a SOS/SCRUB pad, re-spray and scrub. You can use a brush to scrub as well. 7. Rinse the tire with water 8. Your whitewalls will look like new 9. Repeat the process as required over the life of the tire This does not harm the rubber and the results are absolutely amazing. Note: if you transfer the ammonia into a WINDEX or some other reusable spray bottle, REMEMBER TO CLEARLY LABEL IT. GOOD LUCK Skippy
  2. Dear Fellow Members, When time comes to replace my tube tires with tubeless all-season radials, I was hoping to replace with original spec reproductions (e.g. COKER Tires). Can anyone help fill in the blanks; GM TIRE MANUFACTURER/SUPPLIER FOR THE 1955 PRODUCTION YEAR: SIZE SPECIFICATIONS: WHITE WALL SIZE: 1" / 2.5" / OTHER? ANY OTHER RELEVANT INFORMATION: - Other Reproduction Tire Suppliers Thanks, Skippy.
  3. Many thanks for your reply. I will add a drop tonight as preventative maintenance. It is running absolutely great (rebuilt unit). I am preparing an on-going maintenance checklist. Skippy
  4. We had a slight leak around the seal and decided to add a container of LUCAS transmission seal. Dear Fellow Members, It still leaks and I wondered if anyone had any solutions; 1. Would another container of LUCAS help or harm? Given the size of the DYNA FLOW transmission, perhaps one is not enough. Any thoughts? 2. How difficult is it to change the seal(s)and does anyone know who has them in stock? Thanks for your help, Skippy
  5. I noticed on the generator that there is a lubrication point. Quick question: What grade or type of oil should I be using and how often is this required to be done? Thanks, Skippy
  6. Dear All, We noticed the vent window crank black handle (driver's side), is cracked and partially fallen apart. As a last resort, I could glue the pieces back together - puzzle challenge. However, I wondered if anyone has a spare handle in their parts treasure box that they would willing to sell. There is no rush as I am sure that a handle will turn up in due course. As an FYI, the engine turned-over without any problems and runs absolutely perfect - a complete tune-up has been done. Thanks for all the support and advice through-out the process. Thanks, Skippy
  7. Mr. Earl, It is definitely a gem. Skippy
  8. Hi Nova Man, Thanks for the reply. I am sure it is not a Roadmaster - wishful thinking. I will checked the driver's door again tomorrow night. We did look as our reference books pointed us there as well. We could not find any serial numbers or other identification on the door posts and/or actual door. The specifications: 1955 Buick Special V8-264, 2-barrell carburetor Thanks, Skippy
  9. Dear Fellow Members, We are perplexed on serial/identification numbers. The 1955 Buick Shop Manual - authorized states: "The car serial number is on a plate attached to the body on left door hinge pillar. The first digit of the serial number indicates where the car was built: 1=Flint, 2=Southgate, 3= Linden, 4=Kansas City, 5=Wilmington, 6=Atlanta, 7=Framingham. The engine serial number is stamped on a machined surface on the top outer edge of the left cylinder bank, between the middle branches and exhaust manifold. The last digit of the engine serial number is 4 for Series 40, 5 for Series 50, 6 for Series 60, 7 for Series 70. A stamped 1/4" long dash (-) directly following the engine serial number indicates a .10" O.S. production engine. The actual situation; The car specification plate is welded on the passenger side within the engine compartment (approximate size 4.0" x 4.0") below the windshield. The plate provides the following details: Model: 44-37 Serial: Engine: Trim: Body Serial: Paint: The Serial Number ends with the digit "6" The Engine Serial Number ends with the digit "1" Unless, I inhaled too many fumes in the garage today, it does not make any sense. The good news is that we cranked the car over today and it ran briefly and sounded really good. We believe that the problem is with the carb. The initial fuel injects with the gas pedal/starter combination. Unfortunately, the other injector does not seem to be kicking in with the steady flow of fuel....the carburetor was rebuilt so, we just removed it and will be taking it back tomorrow morning for inspection. Thinking, it might be the fuel pump, we ran a complete diagnostics on fuel flow and pressure and it was excellent. We are hopeful that it is a carburetion problem. We were so very close to hearing it run continuously and plan to be back at it tomorrow night. Any additional insights, thoughts, comments or otherwise are always appreciated. Thanks, Skippy
  10. Dear Fellow Members: In changing the wiring today and having two reference books available to us, we had a contradiction on identifying the actual engine sides (Left/Right). Could someone provide a clear directive on the left and right sides based on either Option A or Option B. Finally, how are engine sides correctly referenced: Option A - Standing at the front of the car, facing the windscreen Option B - Sitting in the car, facing the hood emblem Based on Option A, the left-hand side head gasket cover is slightly longer (e.g. more forward) than the right-hand side cover. Is this the side where #1 starts for the firing order? I would not ask such a ridicous question, if we had not noticed two-(2) different printed versions causing us to question ourselves (at least me...). Thanking you in advance for your advice. Skippy
  11. Thanks for your reply and the recommendation. The chrome looks great but, I hoping to source apple green covers. Remaing optimistic..
  12. Hi Bob, Thanks for your reply. Can you email the contact details for Cars Inc. Skippy
  13. Thanks for your feedback. To be honest, I am now confused. My mechanic friend thinks the wires definitely need boots or they will be arching like the "4th of July" Even with the resisters on the generator and regulator, no boots on the wires is "impossible" according to this mechanic. My shop manual does not give those specific details. It was a fellow member, that suggested that the wires and boots were sold separately. I must admit that we found it strange that there were no boots on the spark plug wires. Thanks, Skippy
  14. Happy New Year to all. Quick question; Does anyone know where I can purchase the proper wiring set for my 1955 Buick Special? As mentioned last year, the original wiring was without it's boots and I understand from this forum's feedback that the boots and wires were sold separately. We have not been able to find the proper boot size with our search to-date. Where can I obtain a complete set of wires and boots. My mechanic friend purchased a generic set of wiring this past week however these boots are an all-inclusive package. They are straight vs. angled, taller and will be too rigid to accommodate the "Buick" spark plug cover plates (still trying to source a pair of apple green covers and bolts - should anyone have or know of a pair). I look forward to your comments. We will be working on the car again tomorrow. Skippy
  15. I wondered if there is a way to determine whether my 1955 Buick Special has the Dyna Flow transmission or not. Apparently, this was an option that year. Does anyone have suggestions on how to verify the transmission type? Thanks, Skippy
  16. Dear All, Have been away....thanks for the input and suggestions. I have taken it to a radiator shop and they are suggesting replacing the coils and keeping the top and lower original hardware. Skippy
  17. Apparently, it has sat to long and the coils need replacing. There are a couple of leaks. Before proceeding with this job, I wondered if anyone had a good radiator for sale? Any other comments would be welcomed as well. Thanks, Skippy.
  18. We located a battery (29N - thanks for the insights). We were questioned whether it was a 12 Volt System or a 6 Volt System? To be honest, I was unaware, that any 1955 Buick Specials - V8 came with 6 Volt Systems. Did they? Can anyone validate the correct voltage before I swipe my credit card later this afternoon? Thanks, Skippy
  19. Have located the battery as per the specifications forwarded by Randy. Unfortunately, the +/- posts are in the opposite position to the original wiring on the car? It was suggested that I install a longer cable for the positive post. I did not purchase the battery as I wanted to see if anyone had any additional thoughts on the subject. Thanks, Skippy
  20. Now, I am confused....Does anyone know for sure the grouping for the 1955 Buick Special? Thanks, Skippy
  21. Dear Pete Thanks....your feedback is timely. We had just taken the measurements of the battery compartment (13"long x 6.5" wide x 8.75" high) and we were going to try and find a match. Thanks, Skippy
  22. The vehicle was without a battery and I have been trying to source a replacement. Does anyone have the specifications for this vehicle and/or a supplier who is carrying the proper battery. Thanks, Skippy
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