Jump to content

johnworden1

Members
  • Posts

    511
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by johnworden1

  1. When blasting large pieces I blast and immediately epoxy prime only portions of the whole that I can accomplish in 1 work day. Allow dry time . Protect that area and continue the 1 day blast/prime routine again until the project is finished. I work in a humid climate as well. Luck. John
  2. Hey Oily, If the fellows you mentioned are interested I have a 1911 Baker Model O Light Truck rolling chassis for sale. Message me here if so. Thanks. John
  3. Factory manuals purchased off the shelf of a closed machine shop. No cleaning done other than vacuuming. Appear to be complete and other than some stains are in nice condition. $200.00 each plus ship. Thanks. John
  4. Vic, I would like for you to send the wiper cover and the color information for it. Do you have color information for the red you used on your 37? I could use that info as well. I will return the cover and reimburse you for the shipping cost. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road Green Mountain, Iowa 50632 641 474 2313 home/shop Thank you. John
  5. Restore the chassis with new wood wheels and solid rubber tires. Build a simple flat bed and phone booth cab. Fit new motor , controller etc and have truly one of a kind and probably the the only one left that actually runs. Data plate still attached to frame. I saved it from the scrapper. $5000.00 owns it. Located In Iowa. Thanks, John
  6. Gardner Westcott in Michigan and Restoration Supply in Escondido Ca. are good sources.
  7. Bill delivered a Dearborn Deuce body to my shop in Iowa last week. Excellent service. I found that, according to the biggies, I wasn't in the "lane"
  8. I need both left and right steel retaining moldings that run up the A piller at the door opening edge from floor past the dash to top of A piller. Dog leg shape. What have you? Thanks. John
  9. Vic, More questions........ Do you have any parts with good original factory color? Do you think 38 Plymouth truck interior would be the same? Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that. Can you provide the paint info and manufacturer name on the paint can label? I want to research the matter further. John
  10. The interior parts are too rough to match. Those color analyzers pick the closest existing formula. Results vary. I prefer to locate a close color and tint myself. Thanks you anyway. John
  11. Is the cover factory paint or one you painted? If factory paint I sure would like to borrow it. John
  12. Vic, Do you have interior grey color information that I could use? John
  13. Does anyone have a color code for the 37 cab interior? Thanks, John
  14. Ok Thanks for the pics. I have new wood blocks made and fitted. I believe 3 stiff springs were used at 3 cab mount points but there are 6 cab to frame bolt holes. What goes where? I've seen cab to frame bolt/spring kits showing 3 long shoulder bolts, 3 springs and 1 short bolt with flat washers for all. Thanks John
  15. For sale is a trailer made by cutting the frame rails (1974 Ford Camper Special ) under the cab and converting the result into a trailer. Floor is rusty with perforation. Located in Green Mountain Iowa 50632 $200.00 Thanks. John
  16. OK, I know it looks scary but the basic chassis is there. The wood wheels can be duplicated and hard rubber tires fitted. An authentic flatbed and simple cab can be fabricated in wood like the original. You would need a motor/controls and a steering column. All new components are available to repower this chassis. The data plates are attached to the frame. Found and located in Iowa. John
  17. FWIW the Baker truck chassis I have is identified as a 1911 Model X by an aluminum data plate riveted to the left frame rail near the front. Generally speaking determining value is difficult because so few change hands. The value is essentially what ever someone will pay for it. I can't help with the Detroit.
  18. OK thanks. This truck came in with freshly made plywood triangular boards in the position shown in the pic. They will have to be replaced. It appears that the purpose for them was to add reinforcement to the cab floor at the 4 cowl to frame brackets bolt holes. I can make new ones. Thanks for the help. John
  19. I assume wood blocks with cab to frame bolts passing through them were used at the 2 mounting points on both sides under the cowl. Can someone describe them or post a pic of them? Thanks. John
  20. Vic, If I'm reading correctly the running boards are OEM. Is that correct? Was there welting between the rear fenders and aprons when you disassembled it? John
×
×
  • Create New...