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johnworden1

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Everything posted by johnworden1

  1. FWIW the Baker truck chassis I have is identified as a 1911 Model X by an aluminum data plate riveted to the left frame rail near the front. Generally speaking determining value is difficult because so few change hands. The value is essentially what ever someone will pay for it. I can't help with the Detroit.
  2. OK thanks. This truck came in with freshly made plywood triangular boards in the position shown in the pic. They will have to be replaced. It appears that the purpose for them was to add reinforcement to the cab floor at the 4 cowl to frame brackets bolt holes. I can make new ones. Thanks for the help. John
  3. I assume wood blocks with cab to frame bolts passing through them were used at the 2 mounting points on both sides under the cowl. Can someone describe them or post a pic of them? Thanks. John
  4. Vic, If I'm reading correctly the running boards are OEM. Is that correct? Was there welting between the rear fenders and aprons when you disassembled it? John
  5. I think I found the problem. The rubber top of the re pop running board is 5/8" thick. I'll probably modify running board frame brackets to lower the position of the boards which will also bring the fender down to fit the apron. Thanks for the tips. John
  6. Real nice work on the truck. I have a question about the area where the front end of the rear fender meets the rear end of the running board splash apron and box filler panel. Mocking up those parts leaves a large gap between them at the point where they meet. Is there a filler piece of some sort to close up the misalignment gap? I can't tell from the photos. Thanks, John
  7. Red w/ black top. Located in Florida. Multiple AACA award winner. More photos in thread "Oldsmobile for sale" Make offer. 641 474 2313 home/shop In Iowa central time zone Thanks. John
  8. This car is still available. My phone number was listed in the first post. 641-474- 2313 home/shop central US time zone. See post #9 for price guidance. The photos say it all. The car is in Florida. Thanks, John
  9. Thanks. Because the P5 stroke is fairly short it took 3-4 passes to fully form each channel to full depth. Goes fairly quickly though but is fairly hard to push through the dies even drenched with oil. I was thrilled to do a left and right blank and done. John
  10. Side walls straight. End panel rust out at bottom. Turn box upside down and jump on the floor to get it back close to flat. Tail gate rust out at bottom. Stake pockets restorable. Rust pitting everywhere. Lower side panels damaged. Anyone interested? What is it worth to you? Thasnks, John
  11. One rough 1/2 ton 1937 DB box/tail gate. The stake pockets could be removed and reused. I will try to post pics Monday. Located in Central Iowa 50632 I am building a replica and this served for measurements etc. The original off the truck was in far worse condition. I am using a repop tailgate, tailgate hinges, end panel and restored stake pockets off the original box. I formed the floor channels as original in each floor half with shop made tooling on a Pullmax P5 and and the side walls are included with each floor half as original. All the box sub rails are new as well. Thanks, John
  12. Thanks Vic. I also see the sheet metal piece that connects the front end of both pans together. John
  13. Thanks Alan. Concerning the 2 large openings in one of the panels, one square opening and one half oval opening, what do each of them provide clearance for? John
  14. I need to build replacement splash pans to replace the butchered and incomplete set I have to work with. Could one of you post pics of a complete set? They don't have to be perfect by any means but mostly complete if possible. Thanks. John
  15. Alan, Assuming the engine splash pans (between frame and engine) are the same on a 37 Dodge truck as those on your truck would you have a photo of a good set or at least those that haven't been butchered? The set I have are missing sections. I'll make a new set after I see a complete set. I'm nearly ready to begin welding together a newly fabricated box for the 37 using a repop tailgate and front end panel. I am using original stake pockets and we formed the floor channels on my Pullmax with the seam down the middle as original. I'll post pics of it fairly soon. Your work looks good and thorough. Thanks for any help. John Ok Thanks. I think I will start a thread on the topic in case yours are different than mine. John
  16. Alan, Assuming the engine splash pans (between frame and engine) are the same on a 37 Dodge truck as those on your truck would you have a photo of a good set or at least those that haven't been butchered? The set I have are missing sections. I'll make a new set after I see a complete set. I'm nearly ready to begin welding together a newly fabricated box for the 37 using a repop tailgate and front end panel. I am using original stake pockets and we formed the floor channels on my Pullmax with the seam down the middle as original. I'll post pics of it fairly soon. Your work looks good and thorough. Thanks for any help. John
  17. Are you sure they are bent? Fitting the doors to the door opening with them will reveal if they are damaged or not. If need be they are easy to bend. Luck. John
  18. Baker cars are a dime a dozen. LOL Just kidding. How many Baker trucks have you seen? Seriously though, how about a 1911 Baker Model O Light truck project? John
  19. I have 2 25' coils of I 1/2" and 2 of 2 1/2" used hose not to be used to fight fire. Couplings are not brass. Keep it out of the landfill. Make a $50.00 donation to our volunteer FD and it's yours. Put it on your antique fire truck. Thanks John in Iowa
  20. From experience I can recommend Wrights Custom Chrome in Grafton Ohio.
  21. I made this crank hole cover.
  22. My questions concern the floor beside the seat base. Does the floor mat extend rearward along the seat base to the B piller? The gusset at the B piller/floor junction has 2 screw holes in it that appear to be factory. Is the gusset covered with something? At the door sill where does the interior grey color terminate and the exterior cab color begin? Thanks John Worden
  23. Restored and winner of all major AACA awards. Car is located in Florida. Red/red/black top. Best offer. Thanks John
  24. From experience I will confirm Dave is a stand up guy. He has been very willing and helpful in the restoration of a 37 DB in my shop. He has a life outside of work and supports local volunteer fire departments. In case you don't know they have been extremely busy lately. I recommend him without reservation. John Worden
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